View Full Version : Work Stand
Ed Tipton
12-17-2008, 07:01 AM
I have a question on fabbing up a simple workstand for my shop. I have a disc from a discarded plow. I would like to weld a center pipe onto this to make a workstand...and if needed, a "weighty" piece on the underside for stability. I am new to welding, and have only a "stick" welder. Since the disc is very thin, I was thinking that I will have to preheat the pipe and the weight before doing the weld. I will be using 7014 electrodes, set to the lowest range possible. Any other suggestions?
torker
12-17-2008, 09:28 AM
We are just guessing at the thicknesses here..."thin" is a relative term. Be careful turning your heat down.
You are usually better off directing the heat towards the thicker section and letting the edge of the puddle burn it's way into the thinner part. You need the electrode hot enough to provide good penatration and clean starts.
You don't need to make a big deal out of pre heat with stick as a rule.
Heavy sections...yes... this sounds like lighter stuff to me so I'd not bother with pre heat.
Bob Ford
12-17-2008, 09:45 AM
If I am not mistaken most plow, disks are made out of 1095 or AR steel. Welding without later cracking is difficult. Hate to hear that your stand failed and someone was hurt.
Bob
camdigger
12-17-2008, 11:44 AM
If that blade is the dished style that throws soil to the side, it is unlikely it is thinner than 3/16" and could be as thick as 5/16" if its off a heavy breaking disk which will hold a good bead without reducing the amperage too much If it is the cutting disk in front of the plow (aka coulter), it could be as thin as 1/8". The coulter disks tend to be flat rather than dished, and will be difficult to weld to and not warp causing instability.
High carbon steel is often used for these disks and preheat is never a bad idea..
torker
12-17-2008, 02:00 PM
Ahso...didn't know these discs where hi alloy. Course two seconds of thought coulda fixed that :D Yup..I'd pre and post heat it ...maybe
speedy
12-17-2008, 05:03 PM
Steel auto wheel rims are cheap / free. The top dish can be removed or left as is. The top dish provides a conveniant tool holder.
Easier to weld too.
Ed Tipton
12-17-2008, 06:15 PM
I should have been more specific. The disc is about 16" in diameter, is dish shaped and is approximately 1/ 16" thick. I just thought that since i need a work stand... and I have this thing laying around... I'd kill both birds with one rod so to speak. The wheel is certainly a viable alternative, but this stand would be pretty light weight and thats really all I need. It doe3sn't need to be anything special. I was just trying to get an idea on welding it since I am neither a farmer or welder. Thanks for the responses.
torker
12-17-2008, 07:21 PM
Ok Ed..that's pretty thin for stick in an amatures hands!
I wouldn't bother with preheat on that...it'll heat up plenty fast as it is.
You really need to point the rod into the heavier section and just let the puddle lick the edge of that disc. Keep a bit of heat on it after...with a lil propane torch or something. That thin stuff will cool really quick. You may just want to stitch it also. If it's just for light duty...
Boucher
12-18-2008, 10:24 PM
I had one like that for years. It was a little tipsy but it was light weight and easy to move. I have one now that is a piece of 4" pipe welded into a 20" truck rim with a piece of channel for the top. It is for outside use and is easier to move and more stable than I would have expected. Most of the disks in this area have been turned into artsy wall hangings.
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