View Full Version : right or left threads on these Honda engine parts?

12-31-2008, 05:43 AM
I've got a Honda GX160 horizontal shaft engine that needs some work on the pull starter. I need to know what kind of threads are on the nut that holds the starter cup to the crankshaft and the screw that holds the recoil starter together. I can't see enough thread on the end of the crankshaft to tell which way the threads go. The engine runs clockwise looking at the flywheel.

The screw is item 12 here:

and has this info:
SKU: 90003-ZH8-801
SCREW, SETTING (Honda Code 7613474). Use from Engine SN 1411006.

The nut is item 9 here:

and has this info:
SKU: 90201-Z0T-800
NUT, SPECIAL (14MM) (Honda Code 7348378).


12-31-2008, 05:57 AM
Taking a guess I'd say it would say it would be RH.

Ian B
12-31-2008, 07:37 AM

Can you look at the end of the thread with a magnifying glass? You may be able to see which hand it is from this.


12-31-2008, 08:31 AM
I don't recall ever seeing a left-hand thread on any honda engine. I would put money on that it's RH.

12-31-2008, 10:51 AM
The flywheel is keyed so it shouldn't need to be a LH thread. The word "Special" used on Japanese screws etc. can mean a non conventional thread pitch (Still within the metric range but one of the "Intermediate" piches) or the fact that it's a "washer" type nut.

Regards Ian.

Oh yes, "Special" is also a synonym for EXPENSIVE to replace.

12-31-2008, 12:09 PM
Agreed, the "flanged" nut is what makes it "special". RH thread. Be aware that the reel cover bolt (#12 "screw, setting") is installed with a thread locking compound, so you'll need to add some "loc-tite" when you re-install it.

12-31-2008, 12:32 PM
Left hand. I just took one apart a couple of montha ago.

12-31-2008, 03:59 PM
Help!! Now I'm drowning in conflicted info.

RW makes a guess it's RH. I'm left to guess which one of the two he's talking about.

Peter's putting money on it being RH on both. Unfortunately, it's my money.

Circlip and Highpower go with RH on the flywheel nut. Rustybolt says LH, based on his recent experience.

The problem was that the pawls on the starter (item 4 in the first drawing) weren't deep enough in the cup (item 4 in the second drawing) to engage the cutouts, and the starter would just slip when I pulled the cord.

I took the recoil assembly off, set it on a flat surface with some shims around the outer edge, put a padded block on the center, and hit it with a BFH. That moved the pawls (and everything else) about 1/32" closer to the end of the crankshaft, just enough so they engage every time I pull the rope.

Once again, the BFH saves the day. :D


01-01-2009, 12:20 AM
Right hand.Just went to the shop and took one apart.