View Full Version : Wellsaw 58B - Got the vertical table? (x-post)

01-13-2009, 09:56 PM
I just picked up a Wellsaw 58B, but it does not have the vertical table. Anyone got one that can furnish me a picture. I found one in a very crappy scan of a manual, but it's not really clear how it mounts. I've got ideas on how to make one, but would like to see an original if possible. Anyone?

And yes, I cross posted this because it's not a general discussion thread, and I don't think there are very many who might have one, so this gives better exposure. Sorry if that upsets anyone...

Mark Hockett
01-13-2009, 10:16 PM
I have one and will try to get a picture tonight. It is a very simple piece.

Here ya go,




PM me your email address and I will send you dimensioned drawings.

01-15-2009, 08:01 PM
Oh wow, thanks!

I got the email and saw where you were going to get a pic that night, but didn't see the update. To bad you don't get an email or see it in the "new posts" list when a post is updated...

And I much appreciate it, but don't think I need the drawings. Looks pretty simple, never imagined it bolted to the base. I may be changing that on mine...

01-21-2009, 10:51 PM
To say it's been a bad night would be an understatement, not real happy with myself or tool "restoration" in general since that @%#% tippy arse Wellsaw just fell over for the SECOND time, always toward the fragile parts OF COURSE.

First time sprung the bow and broke a $45 pulley gear box pulley, lucky it didn't hurt the gear box. That was strictly my fault because I just didn't realize leaving the wheels down in vertical mode put the fulcrum so close to the CoG that just barely brushing it as I passed by would send it over.

This time it was off the wheels (I learned to keep it that way unless moving!) and in the up position (on a pawl rest) of horizontal mode, and it just decided on it's own (I swear, I was 20 feet away) to start going UP. God knows why. The stop that should have kept that from happening somehow missed it's notch and it slammed to the full vertical, and over she went. This time it sprung the top frame AGAIN, bend the motor shaft, broke the motor pulley, and bent the upper guide bar along with the lock screw/handle.

I may take that POS to the scrapper just for the joy of knowing it's going to China to be melted down. Moron @#$^ engineers could easily have put the feet about 4" outboard (toward the motor end) and none of this would have (or could have) happened. So much for "good ol' American machines". Man I'm pissed. I think I'm going back to my good ol' dependable HF with a nice solid frame *I* built that in all it's moving around in vertical and horizontal mode with 20' sticks of steel hanging off it has NEVER fallen over or broken a single part...

Mark Hockett
01-21-2009, 11:17 PM
I wasn't going to say anything the other day but you are right about the saw being a POS. The steel frame looks like some first year high school kid welded it, it should be a cast frame like the Jet or any other import saw. The 1/2" wide blade sucks and they want over $400 for the kit to convert it to a 3/4" blade. The feed system is a joke with the thing that looks like a shock you have to fill with oil. I converted mine to an adjustable unit from a Jet saw. It cost $140 for the feed unit but it was worth every penny.

With the flimsy frame and all the sheet metal covers mine was so noisy it drove me nuts. I ended up putting felt backing on the covers to quiet it down. I don't like that there is no switch to turn the coolant off, you have to unplug a cord. That and having to remove the chip tray when using it in the vertical position suck. The gear box is also a joke and mine leaks oil. The saw really looks like some HS kids school project.

The only thing I like about it is the caster system. It rolls better and easier than any other saw I have owned. In my small shop that is important as I roll the saw outside when working in the shop, so it gets a lot of miles on it.

My neighbor just bought the Turn Pro gear head saw from Enco. That is one sweet saw made by Frejoth in Taiwan. No changing the belt, it has a very smooth transmission to change blade speeds. And it is less than half the price of a new Wellsaw 58B. When I get moved into the new shop and saw mobility is no longer an issue I will be getting the Turn Pro.

01-21-2009, 11:41 PM
Oh well, live and learn. I was ignorant enough to think that Wellsaw meant "quality US made tool".

And I just hit the high points. Lets add the $20 8 oz container of "Cities Service Amplex 05" (from the manual) hydraulic oil for that POS feed (yeah, also had replacing that on my to-do list). Try to Google that oil, no such thing so far as Google is concerned. The only other hits are copies of the same useless manual. Called up some useless "tech support" who tells me it's "standard 6 WT hydraulic oil". My response, "6 wt? What standard?" He has no clue other than to sell me their 8 oz bottle. Only (near) $20 shipping, so $40 for 8 oz of oil! For that price it better applied by Miss July, and NOT to that @#%# saw! :D And then there is the moron engineer/tech-writer who informs me (via that useless manual) that the "reservoir" is to be filled to "within 1" of the top". I think that following THAT instruction is actually what got me tonight. With it that full, it's pushing against you trying to go down from vertical. I thought it had bottomed on that support pawl, but maybe it wasn't all the way down. That would explain why the riser-limiter thingy didn't stop it. And the worthless feed "dash pot" has no restraint against going up, then factor in the "helper clock spring" on the hinge to counter balance the arm weight when you lift it, and you have an auto rising top support. :mad:

And now this is after I just bought (today!!!) over $120 worth of various pitch 1/2 Lenox blades for that rotten little POS.

I've had a run of stuff like that for the last 2 months. It was all I could do to not take my A/O rig and turn it into a pile of slag tonight, I had to just walk away and leave it along with everything else I had planned for tonight. I tell ya, I was darn near homicidal when I saw it rising on it's own and going over, too far for me to get to it, and then saw all the damage. It's been a long time since I got that pissed over something. I'm going to go watch television. I NEVER watch television, but I have a feeling that's the only way I'm going to make it through the evening without doing something I'll regret... :eek:

Fair warning, anyone that runs across this, the 58B Wellsaw is pure garbage from a design and quality stand point. Based on this experience, I would no longer consider a Wellsaw of any sort. Maybe I can find a Kalamazoo or Ellis that I can have these blades cut and rewelded for...

Mark Hockett
01-21-2009, 11:48 PM
The larger Wellsaw's are very nice, had one in the last shop I worked in.

01-21-2009, 11:57 PM
That was also my impression, but the typical #8 and such is FAR too big for me, and I need the V/H capability. But apparently the 58B is some cut-rate race to the bottom MBA inspired equivalent to the Chevy Chevette. Oh well, I guess I'll be upgrading this Wellsaw back to my Harbor Freight 4x6. Much better saw in every way. Maybe when I get over my current anger I'll feel like re-engineering the whole darn thing into something fit to use. The ONLY reason I bought it because I often have problems with size limitations on my 4x6. That's the only reason. Other than that the 4x6, with it's various upgrades/tweaks, has been a fine and dependable tool... <sigh>

Oh, and let me offer a genuine "Thanks!" for chatting with me while I blow off some steam. Beats watching the boob tube...

01-21-2009, 11:59 PM
That model Wellsaw is a knock around jobsite saw intended for plumbers mostly.

Mark is right the larger Wellsaws are very well engineered and cut flawlessly.

We have a 1118 at work that will eat anything put in it.Picked it up used for $500.

The mitering 4x6 saws such as Grizzly and a few others sell is better than the 58B,that's who Wellsaw is trying to compete with on the little saws.I think they should give up,Taiwan has much cheaper labor and can put more man hours into a saw.

01-22-2009, 12:07 AM
Yeah, I figured that out, after I bought it. :( But what I want to know is, if it's that darned easy to knock over (basically near impossible not to, or so it seems to me), then how the heck does it servive on some random job site? I can't imagine it would last a day. Apparently the previous owner was smarter than me. He let the down feed "dash pot" go completely dry and it had a ruined blade on it. But I saw no evidence of it having fallen over (that I saw) until I got it. He had lost the table, so maybe he just always used it in horizontal mode. <shrug>

On the up side, just before it fell over, after hours of adjusting and tweaking after the first fall sprung the arm, I made 2 cuts through 2.5" LC steel solid bar. They were darned near perfectly square all the way around (as checked with a 3" machinist's solid square). Cut was flat/straight and you could barely see light under the blades. Now the blade is visibly out by about 1/8" in 3" and the motor has ~1/8" eccentric orbit at the end of the pulley... <sigh>

01-22-2009, 12:17 AM
Many of those could be had two ways.One as a bolt down machine as applied to the back of a truck or trailer.The other as an optional add on frame/wheel kit.Without the wheel kit and frame it does back flips.My suggestion would be bolt it to a couple 4x4 wood skids.

Wellsaws can be adjusted and setup to cut very pretty.Our old machine at work looks like scrap,but with 15 minutes of adjustment it will hold .010" over 18"x11" verticaly and stay that way for months of heavy use.

01-22-2009, 12:21 AM
Here is a couple picks of the old beastie,right after it landed-


The best band guides on Earth IMHO-