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wierdscience
08-07-2003, 08:18 PM
Just would like to share my experiences with spray paint,seems like this needs a whole other topic.
The main mistake that people make with spray paint is buying the cheapest they can find,I sent somebody out for some the other day and they brought back the .99 a can crap and said "this was cheaper so I got this instead"I quickly pointed out that it number one it was a cheap can to begin with and only had 9oz of paint in it and at best you will only get half of that out before the propellent runs out,the good stuff is usually 11oz and you get all of it.
The cheap stuff also uses cheap paint,mostly enammel that never ever dries.
I buy Rustoleum or Krylon about$3.25 a shot here local,I get good paint and a good can with a fan spray nozzle,put a handle on it and you got instant spray gun.
The cheap stuff has less solids in it and takes more coats to cover there by more cans,while the other less coats and less cans.
Well the person I sent didn't believe me so I setup a test,grabbed up two 55 gallon drums and started painting,it took 5 cheap cans to get 1 coat on one drum and 3 good cans to do 2 coats on the other with far better coverage.
While this is far from scientific,it does lead me to believe that this is one time where spending more means saving money.

randyc
08-07-2003, 09:10 PM
Ignoring the appearance of the two different types of paint in your experiment, there is no clear economic winner.

The cost was approximately $5 for a single coat of the cheap paint and the same for a SINGLE coat of the expensive paint, right?

My gripe about the "cheap" spray cans is that the nozzles are inferior. Coverage is not as uniform and clogging more frequent...

Regardless of personal brand preference these little spray cans are SO convenient for small jobs!

Paul Alciatore
08-08-2003, 12:57 AM
Hey, if I'm going to take all the trouble to prep something for painting, I'm not going to scrimp on a few dollars of paint. I have a workbench top that I painted over 20 years ago. Three coats of polyurethane varnish. Good stuff! It looks almost new today. The manufacturer's paint job on the metal base is showing it's age. I may repaint it soon.

I'm doing another bench now and you can bet your last buck that I'm using the best paint I can find. This one is steel so I'm using Rustoleum. At least three coats, maybe four before I'm through. I've tried the $.99 store brands. They aren't worth using even if free. You get what you pay for. And in the end, the good stuff may even be cheaper. Fewer coats, less labor, fewer runs, longer lasting.

Paul A.

Evan
08-08-2003, 01:01 AM
Paul,

Yep.

Michael Az
08-08-2003, 01:56 AM
I use automotive paint for anything metal I paint. Just habit I guess. Cost per gallon is $200 with the catalist and thinner. Primer is another $150. This is not expensive paint, just middle of the road. Like it was said before, "You get what you pay for." I also agree that if I'm going to the trouble of painting something, I want it to last for awhile and look good.
Michael

wierdscience
08-08-2003, 09:00 AM
Remember we only got one crappy coat from the cheap stuff,while we got two that would pass for finished with the better paint,this means it would take 10 cheap cans to equal the work done by the 3 good ones.
Also the good stuff is far more consistant than the cheap cans,things like the solids content also really show up on colors like red.
I also like automotive paint, Imron is what I like for machinery,but man is it expensive! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

kenc
08-08-2003, 12:14 PM
Michael,
You can actually get *more* than you pay for with the major paint mfg "value" line paints.
For example PPG's Omni line and Dupont's Nason. I used Omni acrylic urethane on my project car and it did a very nice job.
Of course, as with all modern catalysed paints you need to buy a proper supplied air breathing apparatus.

Alistair Hosie
08-08-2003, 03:20 PM
What is the best way of masking off a lathe to respray without taking it all apart .I know it is better to take it apart but I don't want to go there just yet. Getting into all the nooks and crannies will be dificult even when spraying .Can the two part epoxy paints be brushed on on places and what are the results anyone done this let me know I know a few of you have don't it by dismantling but I am not confident to attempt this yet,and would like more advice Alistair

lynnl
08-08-2003, 03:35 PM
The quality issue applies to all paints. Spray cans, automotive, housepaint, or whatever.
I've heard it said that only rich people can afford cheap paint.

Alistair Hosie
08-08-2003, 04:06 PM
Lynnl
How abou only cheap people can afford cheap paint.I am amzed evertime we see adverts for large drums of waterbased paints at rediculously low prices, then when you get them home they are as thin as milk all you have been carrying home was a small amount of paint and a large amount of water.
My old mother fell for it everytime had to give the wals five coats to get the job done Alistair

CCWKen
08-09-2003, 12:05 AM
Alistair: Yes, you can brush 2-part epoxy paint. Don't dilly-dally on clean up unless it's a throw away brush though. (Use Lacquer thinner for clean up.)
You should try spraying some of the camelion colors. At $600 a QUART, you use the best HVLP equipment you can find and spray a base color. Makes me nervous every time I just open the can.

Michael Az
08-09-2003, 12:47 AM
Alistair, be sure to use a good quality masking tape. I don't know if you have 3M there, but thats what I use. The cheapest tape will tear when you go to remove it. Use newspaper or paper grocery bags to cover larger areas you don't want to paint.
Michael

hornluv
08-09-2003, 02:57 AM
I just take all of my stuff to Earl Scheib ("I'll paint any car for $99.95!) http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Alistair Hosie
08-09-2003, 04:44 AM
Guys thanks for info the masking off is the hardest part,you have to mask of and then paint then move the saddle along the bed to get to the parts you missed. So it aint going to be easy if I ever try would be well worth it though.I have a pal who is good at this although I dont know if hes done a metal lathe.He's done some woodlathes ok but that is a different story. He is goung to look at it and see what he thinks before I make the decision.Whoo the knees are shakin http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif Alistair

wierdscience
08-09-2003, 08:27 PM
Not all masking tape is created equal either,the stuff you get at the five and dime is no good for painting,the automotive paint stores sell some that has better glue so it will cut a better line,but it will also come off without leaving lots of glue or tape behind.
You might consider using liquid mask for some parts,spray it on and trim of the excess then paint.

spope14
08-09-2003, 08:47 PM
On a side subject, we have a street construction project going on in our city on the main drag. Takes 7 minutes from my home to get to wally world to get the cheap paint for the home, and 40 minutes to get to Sherwin Williams to get the good "22 year" latex paint, and the correct gloss oil paint with the 20year waranty. I painted my garage and porch with the cheap stuff about five yers back, it is chipping like heck. My eves on the home were good Sherwin, and 9 years later it is still there. OK, so I look at it this way, 32 minutes compared with the four weeks it took the first time to scrape the deck, and five weeks again five years later. Now I am hopefully, with good prep this time, and good paint, going to save about 15 years for the 32 minutes......


I love the "blue" 7 day release tape from 3-M. There are other brands, but the 3-m is best. Smooth face, not the rough face, the smooth face does not "hold" tha paint on the edge, the rough face gives it a real "grab" area, and pullsthe paint off uneven. I know this because i used up my rough face (2 rolls), had to buy a smooth face couple of rolls of tape. Smooth face pulled up great, had to "retouch" edges on rough face.

Krylon or Rustoleum are the best paints. I use quite a bit of the stuff on student 'weld" projects, and on machine "tool holding" attachments. My trick is good prep of removing loose paint, feathering of chip areas in the good paint, and using isopropyl alcohol to clean, then spraying three coats, each 12 hours or more apart.

Tried primer on spray paint, thought it would work "better", no appreciable life span addition.

On my machines though, I use epoxy paints when possible. Takes three datys to cure right, but worth it comparing one years wear life span to five years life span.

Good study on your painting, I actually appreciate what you say.



[This message has been edited by spope14 (edited 08-09-2003).]

wierdscience
08-09-2003, 08:56 PM
I like epoxy too,I do know that you had better like the color,I have found it to be a dosey to remove http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Have you ever tried the Hammerite paint before?I have had good sucess on machine tool parts with it,it seems to dry hard and absolutely nothing will stick to it as far as oil,grease and grime goes,bout $8.00 a can last can I bought.

Stepside
08-10-2003, 09:23 AM
Hammerite work great. The "hammered" texture means it will hide some of the small imperfections that would really show up with a gloss finish. I use it for machine bases and tool holder in my shop. Its ability to hide spot welds and scratches is probably why it looks like Sears toolbox finish.

Alistair Hosie
08-10-2003, 03:48 PM
You can also get hammerite in a smooth finish.They don't make a suitable colour for me but I mat consider it I have tried it before many times but a friend of mine thins it down and sprays it as it is difficult to use when straight out of the can as too thick and tacky when cold Alistair