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Mike Hunter
01-16-2009, 12:04 PM
Recently installed a DRO in my lathe, the DRO scale now covers up my cross slide lock (on the Gib side); which I kinda sorta miss. So the question is can I install a new cross slide lock on the non Gib side without any issues.

Thanks

Mike

dp
01-16-2009, 12:32 PM
Do you have enough meat in the area so you can put a brass plunger in there ahead of the locking screw? That will keep the turning part away from the dovetail.

Andrew_D
01-16-2009, 11:19 PM
what kind of lathe? where exactly did you mount the DRO scale?

pictures??? (I hear they are worth 1000 words :D )

Andrew

gr8life
01-17-2009, 01:34 AM
Same problem for me. I have a Grizzly g4003g w/ the dro scale mounted on the tailstock side of the cross slide. I have drilled and tapped a hole on the head stock side and use a 1/4 20 screw with a brass piece tapped into the thread end to lock the cross slide. This works but you have to lock the slide with the lathe off. It also does not allow you to lock the cross slide w/ the follow rest on the cross slide. If anyone has a work around for this I would really, really like to see it.
Thanks
ed in Las Vegas (only hit 71 degrees today)

bob ward
01-17-2009, 06:53 AM
I need to come up with a solution to the same problem. I'm tossing up between gr8life's solution and one from the Yahoo lathe group, which uses the existing cross slide locking screw hole.

The idea is to tap vertically from the face of the cross slide to intersect the existing hole. Put a ball bearing in the horzontal hole and use a pointed end screw in the new hole to force the ball against the gib.

oldtiffie
01-17-2009, 07:05 AM
Why not put the DRO on "stand-outs" (from the saddle and cross-slide) and fit a hex-head screw as the clamp and use an open-ended spanner.

So far as I am aware, there is or may be no real reason to have the DRO "up-close" - only that it be sufficiently rigid so as not to deflect and to not send off false readings.

smagovic
01-17-2009, 11:13 AM
I used the stand- out as tiffie suggest, and used the existing hole for a "screw" fitted with about 1 " wheel with several holes drilled axially into it . I use a little metal stick as a wrench to manipulate the "screw". The stick can be moved about 1/5 of the rotation. So, a couple of tries can lock the cross slide. All this is covered by a magnetic (plastic) business card when in a normal use to keep swarf out. Vic

gr8life
01-17-2009, 10:13 PM
I ruled out standouts because they increase the distance the ram must be out of the tailstock when using a center. I believe the distance the ram is out of the tail should be as short as possible. I have to think about the top idea a little. Would that not raise the height of the cross slide?
ed

bob ward
01-18-2009, 06:10 AM
To me, standouts are a good idea.

The DRO scales already keep the tailstock 75mm off the cross slide, not something I like, but if you want a DRO you are stuck with that compromise.

Another 10mm is not going to make much difference.

Dweight
03-07-2009, 08:53 AM
For me it would be the principal of the matter, think about it for a momment. You pay x amount of money for a new product WITH an upgrade (DRO). To put it anpther way I buy a car they sell me an anti theft system; I take delivery to find angle iron welded across all the doors so knowone can enter. Sure the anti theft system works but is it convient to have to crawl through the window all the time. It maybe a PIA but send it back and get what your hard earned dollar was spent for.
When I spend my money I want somthing FULLY functional even it is an option I may use once in five years. Cause beleive me when and if you need it you will kick yourself; so why not kick someone else right now and get what you ordered?

just my .02 Doug