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randyjaco
01-18-2009, 07:52 PM
Hi All,
I have an old Carolina HD10 horizontal band saw that is giving me fits. I have been restoring this saw and finally got it all together. The problem is I canít keep the blade on when it is cutting. The blade tracks fine when not under load, but when it gets about half way through a bar it will jump off. Can anyone walk me through the adjustment of this saw?

TIA

Randy

aboard_epsilon
01-18-2009, 08:14 PM
new blades seem to resolve a lot of problems like this ...the things will not even cut strait when blade is worn ..

it's all to do with you putting more feed on it, as the blade becomes worn, to still try to get the desired results ..

it reacts by twisting the blade or forcing slack on the blade ..hence it jumps its runners or makes bad cut

all the best.markj

danlb
01-18-2009, 10:10 PM
I had this problem with mine, and found the cause to be the guide rollers.

I'd adjusted them too close, forgetting anout the weld. In use the blade weld would sometimes jam between the rollers, kicking the blade off the wheels.

Dan

Ken_Shea
01-18-2009, 10:38 PM
Doubtful that you have not already checked this but be sure there is no wobble in the drive pulleys and that the blade drive surface is not worn.


Ken

oldtiffie
01-18-2009, 10:45 PM
Check the blade tension as well as the "tilt" on the driven/idler? wheel.

Ken_Shea
01-18-2009, 11:04 PM
Check the blade tension as well as the "tilt" on the driven/idler? wheel.

Or wobble :D

tony ennis
01-18-2009, 11:17 PM
...and make sure the frame isn't cracked.

George Barnes
01-19-2009, 12:09 AM
You might try a coarser tooth blade. If you are cutting very large bar stock, the fine tooth blades generate enough chip to make the blade jam and it kicks off of the wheels. My saw acts this way when I am too lazy to change blades for the job at hand.

randyjaco
01-19-2009, 07:40 PM
Thanks All for the responses. Since they want better than $60 for a new blade, I will start with the cheaper suggestions first. ;)

kendall
01-19-2009, 10:35 PM
I have a bandsaw that does pretty much the same thing, tracks fine 'empty' but kicks the blade in use, found that tuning the blade while cutting a scrap of hardwood solved the issue.

It's only a temporary fix to get you through the day, and does require a proper repair or blade change.

I was in the middle of a late night session to take care of some things that HAD to be done, or I would have just waited till I could pick up new blades.

the only way I can explain is that somehow the blade gets stretched (or welded) so it's conical instead of cylindrical and your adjustments don't effect the whole blade, only the smallest section of the cylinder, so any stress changes the relation between blade and wheels. (my pet theory for why a perfectly cutting blade suddenly won't work even when everything else is the same!)

ken

edit: bad bearings, or worn wheel/tire could also be the issue. (or maybe you just forgot to leave out a cup of cutting oil for the shop gremlins that night!)