PDA

View Full Version : welder kicked the bucket?



tiptop
02-04-2009, 11:22 AM
Hi All,
Well I was welding up some 16 ga sheet metal for my wireway in the shop the other day and the welder quit. I've had this thing for about 5 years and like it for tin work. It is a small lincoln, SP 175 Plus, I purchased for just such thin work. Any way when I squeeze the trigger wire comes for just a second and stops. During that time it does not seem to get any high voltage. I figured the wires from the machine to the trigger may be broken because of the whip always getting bent around, so I bypassed them plugged in a set with a switch and it still does the same thing. So I called the local welding shop supplier and he said it is probably the board. They want to look at it for 75 bucks minimum and then start replacing parts until they figure it out at 75 bucks an hour. I figure at that rate even if it is just the board I'll be out about 500 bucks when all said and done. Any body got any ideas on this or are welders throw away items these days?

Jay

macona
02-04-2009, 03:43 PM
First undo the bail that clamps the wire to the drive roll and see if the motor keeps running then. If not the board is shot. I believe they are around $125.

Oh, wait.. you got a plus. Board is more expensive. Cant remember how much though.

tiptop
02-04-2009, 08:26 PM
macona,

I'll try that tomorrow. I never stopped think that the wire bail may be to tight as it worked fine the last time. Never know though, might get lucky. Do you know were I can order a board from besides the local guy? Prices are very high on everything here at the beach, I usually make shopping lists for valley runs.

Jay

Stepside
02-04-2009, 08:39 PM
Check your drive rollers for dirt. That is if the board test proves the board is okay. I always run the felt wire wipers wit the cleaner/lube.

airsmith282
02-04-2009, 08:51 PM
check the board for cracked even hair line cracked solder joints this is a comman problem in all electronic stuff ,, easy fix if thats all it is in the end and you can do it your self ofr 5 cents worth of solder ,, over 90% of the time i just re solder stuff and its back up and running only the od time i run into an issue where its not the problem and in thoes cases then you weigh out whats cheaper pay some guy 500 bucks to mabye fix it or get a new welder in this case ...

10KPete
02-04-2009, 11:04 PM
Yep, go over all the wires, connectors, board, etc, with a fine tooth magnifier and see if you can find any defects. Like airsmith said, they're usually easy to fix.

Pete

tiptop
02-05-2009, 01:23 PM
Thanks for all the tips guys. When the guy at the local supply outfit said the board, naturally I figured replace, as I know nothing of these electronics, but I do know how to look for cracks and such. I will go over everything in the next day or two before making a rash decision. One thing I really liked about this little welder was the ability to weld 20 ga body panels as I do some custom restorations on vehicles occasionally. Thanks again.

Jay

macona
02-05-2009, 10:45 PM
I almost never repaired the boards for a machine unless it was a board that was no longer made. By the time I spend a few hours working on the board I can get a new one with a warranty. We charged $75 an hour when I did the repair gig as well.

doctor demo
02-07-2009, 10:14 PM
Jay, I didn't know that Lincoln made a lineshaft driven welder:D .
Just check to see that the belt didn't slip off the pully.

Ya know some times I just cannot help it:p .
I feel Your pain. anything that has an electronic board in it hates Me, but I get even most of the time...I just let out all of the Magic Smoke and then the offending board quits giving Me any problems:eek: .


Steve