View Full Version : T/C Encore Pivot Pin

03-16-2009, 06:52 PM
What material would you guys recommend for the pivot pin on a T/C prohunter. I have a muzzleloader barrel and a 338 win mag barrel for it. The stock pin is 7/16 dia. It is a bit loose. I have been studying on the web on this a bit. I have found a couple schools of thought on the issue. Some say to use the pin that has machined washer head at one end with screw on washer for the other. I have one of these. It is .001 smaller in diameter than the factory pin. Not good. I can feel the looseness in the barrel with that pin.
Secondly was reading last night about another person who makes oversize pins that you tap in with a plastic hammer etc. This makes more sense to me. Wondering if I may machine my own but not sure of which metal to use. It has to wear resistant and strong of course. Will drill rod work?

03-17-2009, 10:50 AM
I would use drill rod. You might test the original pin with a file to determine if it is hardened, and harden the drill rod if it is. I see no problem with using drill rod as-is.

Minor looseness in the barrel of a shotgun can be taken up by soft soldering a piece of shimstock in the barrel lug pivot point. That might be another approach to tighten up the barrel with the undersized pin.

03-17-2009, 06:43 PM
Hi J C. I did try the file trick. The original is definitely harder than regular mild steel but not so hard that the file teeth get shiney.

I think I will test a couple loads in it and then remove the pin and see if I can see any untoward marks in it.

The factory pin would basically slide in with a firm push when all lined up. The new pin of drill rod requires tapping in with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. It is not tight so to speak but a nice fit just the same. Noticable difference in how tight the barrel action fit is.


03-17-2009, 10:14 PM
I think some people use gauge pins for pivots like this, especially if you are wanting to achieve a tighter fit.

03-18-2009, 04:16 PM
The interference fit pins are not a bad way to go if you don't get carried away. The trouble is that you have both frame holes and a barrel lug hole on the Contender and the likelihood that they are both over by the same amount is slim. Buying an inexpensive item like this, precision ground, is the safest way to insure that you don't get a taper in it. If you are truly comfortable turning and polishing a part to "tenths" on the lathe, it certainly is a simple item.

I got mine from Mike Bellm who has them made up and precision ground in various oversize increments. He advocates for perhaps more interference than I might like and has at one time or another even sold a reamer for enlarging the frame holes to match the barrel lug hole (or vise versa) to deal with that disparity I mentioned before. I don't really want to go that far and found that I was lucky enough to get by with a +1 pin in my case. I use a nylon drift for removal and tap it in with a brass hammer. I have about 4 custom barrels and two frames so I don't have to do a lot of swapping.

Do bear in mind that tighting the pin may change your previous barrel-to-frame gap assumptions. Mike B is a big proponent of knowing the distance from your cartridge headspace point to the frame and only sizing rounds to just fit. He is right in my experience. A round that can be driven forward will result in poor ignition tendancies and poor accuracy. Likewise, a round that is too long and does not allow for proper lockup will also result in light strikes, failures to fire, and even the gun popping open upon recoil.


03-24-2009, 03:56 PM
Hello Everyone
Vern Juenke of "The Accuracy Den" in Reno Nevada. Uses a procedure that involves reaming out the hole and installing a precision ground pin in place of the original. I believe his number is 775 345 0225.
TC guns with this modification shoot accurate. I used to do a cheap modification on mine by spraying the original pins with a resin based MOS2
called "Magic Moly" and letting it dry. It helped.

03-25-2009, 12:14 PM
Yeah...I am not that fond of making a barrel or frame non-standard by reaming oversize....at least not if a more slightly oversize pin will make for the needed interference fit without permanently changing the frame or barrel. The premise of the Contender is universal barrel interchangability. You never know when you might want to trade a barrel and by reaming it oversize, you have just guaranteed a loose fit for the next guy who tries to mount a barrel with an unmodified lug on your frame, or a barrel that will inherently be loose on a frame with a standard fit.

Certainly, however, there are cases with lug holes so oversize that there are no other alternatives.

This is the advantage to the precision ground pins...you can get them in increments that are small enough to allow an interference fit even on a barrel or frame that is only *very* slightly loose--and without modification.