View Full Version : Whats your current project? Mine, welding table.

04-08-2009, 08:23 PM
Every now and then I and others post a thread with a similar title.

The weather has been good and since I have some time off, I decided to make a welding table. All I seem to have around the shop are wood tables which work well until a hot ember gets jammed into the wood and smolders for a while. Next thing you know, the fire department has been to the shop and all they saved was the foundation (normal). I didnt want this to happen so I started the plan.

I found some metal at the local scrapper and I had some square tube that was found behind a friends house right before she sold it. I knew it would all come in handy.

Welding up the top.
Click for larger photo.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7450.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7450.jpg)

Top support

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7456.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7456.jpg)

Action shot!

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7454.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7454.jpg)

To be continued........

04-08-2009, 08:24 PM
More.... Flipping the table

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7459.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7459.jpg)
Hum.... this might not work, I wonder.....

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7460.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7460.jpg)
Got it.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7462.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7462.jpg)
Just a little more.....

04-08-2009, 08:24 PM

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/th_IMG_7463.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/projects/weldingtable/IMG_7463.jpg)
I may well drill some holes in the top for clamping. Flat enough for me, not perfect but good enough. I will add some wheels when I find a good set. The table is a bit over 36" high and there will be a vise setup for it soon. This makes a nice working surface when sitting or standing.
So what are all of you up to?

04-08-2009, 08:51 PM
Cleaning and painting a Burke horizontal mill. The ways look good and check out fine so I got lucky. I've had to make a few small parts. I will be converting it from hand operation to leadscrew next.

04-08-2009, 08:58 PM
THE thicker the metal, the happier you will be with the welding table.. the one inch thick ones At TVA, I keep trying to buy one at auctions. THEY keep going high prices I can't or won't afford..

OKAY.. 2x2 recievers.. I have them everywhere.. some people put them sideways under the edges of tables.. rig up strap benders and tube benders, vices.. other things to drop in..

Mine are all vertical.. probably not idea.. but what I done at the time..

A more useful tidbit? weld a piece of stainless to the table leg to clamp your ground to.. no more having to grind the rusty spot to get a good connection, or sparking while you are tigging and messing up your puddle..

04-08-2009, 09:08 PM

I have been finishing up the last bits of my shop wiring. Next will be bumping up the size of my RPC to run my Monarch with until I can afford a VFD.


04-08-2009, 09:09 PM

My current project. English wheel-tipping-bead roller open frame.. for working sheet metal.

I was converting the legs on my english wheel to vertical, Taken off the ballast ibeam.. I had it with a two ended deal with a power hammer on the other end. It was about eight feet long and taking up too much space.. It is easier to use now and smaller footprint.
Further plan is to weld a 2x2 reciever on both ends to hold dollys and benders. As you get older you want to reduce the foot steps between work areas.

J Tiers
04-08-2009, 09:25 PM

Scraping-in a small straightedge.... still at that off and on.... The dots are getting smaller and more numerous however, and it needs to move away from the workbench soon..

A stack of parts for various small engines, a choke for the Hercules, some stuff to let me recharge the magnet of the small Briggs PM generator, a crank and rod pair to grind or otherwise take out the scoring from (small lever-start Johnson laundry motor), some wind turbine parts,

If I get done with that, another shaper needs scraped-in, for which I need to scrape at least one small angle plate to a good 90......... I don't have any that will fit right now.

This is starting to sound like a to-do list. I have one of those too......

I counted up, and found that I had either 8 or 9 hobbies, depending, and that the shop supports at least 3 of them.

04-08-2009, 11:53 PM
I am working on a secret project. I could post it here but I can't afford that many hit men.

04-09-2009, 12:26 AM
I am working on a secret project. I could post it here but I can't afford that many hit men.

Looks like I picked a good time to drop by for a visit!

doctor demo
04-09-2009, 01:45 AM
After the H.F. POS lathe purchase and subsequent grinding job that I used it for, I decided to take it under My wing and make it better. (or at least try)

First I stripped it down to pieces. I then flipped it over and flattened the feet by milling off .030 to clean it up. Then I put it on the surface grinder and took out a .007 belly and a .010 sway back. To get the vee way back in shape I dressed an 8'' wheel to a 45 deg. point so I could do the front and back of the way without moving the bed on the grinder.

Now I have a perfectly true bed, well as perfect as I can do on a grinder and measure.

The headstock was pointing down hill about .003 and to the front about the same. As measured from both ends .
Clamping and squaring the headstock upside down on the grinder proved more difficult than I expected, it took Me a couple of hours to get it dialed in and another two hours to grind , I couldn't take more than a half thou per pass or it would move around on the chuck.

Headstock bolted back on the bed and it is between .0002 and .0003 front to back and up and down. About 10 times better than it was but still not a Jewelers lathe.

Even after grinding the headstock, the tailstock is .005 low and tipped down .002 in the length of the ram. I may have to make a new base for it , I'm not sure how to make a shim for it.

I have not started on the carage or compound yet...after all I still have to make a living. LOL


04-09-2009, 07:27 PM
It all started when I saw a neat looking Logan Spindle on Ebay and thought I could use it something someday if the price was right. That led to a head casting from California, a lathe bed from Mich. Cross Slide and Turret from Vermont, Enco Mfg. 12 position tool holder from Ohio I think, new bearings from Mich. (Logan Co.) made some parts for the spindle drive as there was no back gear for the driven pulley to drive, VFD and Motor from Georgia, etc

I always seem to add extra challenges to any project so when it came time to ship me the turret the dealer emailed and said he had made a mistake on his listing and the turret was for an 11 inch lathe and not a 10 inch but the price would be very reasonable and since I had committed to him anyway I decided to take a chance on modification. I decided that for the tools that need to be dead center I would turn 4 inches of 2 in dia CRS down to 3/4 inch for the first 1 3/4 inches and mount these and then drill/bore new mounts using the headstock. For other adjustable height turret tools I will probably fabricate some dovetail mounts similar to the old WS and Oliver mounts. The turret was in excellent shape and cleaned up nicely, works very smoothly and is nice and tight. The production cross slide also shows little wear. The Enco turret tool holder is very tight and is a well constructed piece, it also didn't hurt that it only cost $20 on ebay.

The neatest part so far is how quiet and smooth the VFD and Inverter duty motor run. Spooky quiet and smooth. I have the range set for now from 0-2600 on the motor shaft speed so this runs my spindle at 0-1508 rpm with the pulleys I am using. Thanks to all who made comments and suggestions on this thread http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=33732&highlight=vfd+basics the folks at AutoMation Direct were super to work with I basically said I have this and want to do this and they spent about 30 min on the phone walking me through all of it and putting the vfd and motor together and got it to me in about 4 days. Great Service.

I have only drilled and bored the CRS and practiced parting some 3/4 in CRS with the back tool post but when I set the rpm to say 540 (motor) 313 (spindle) it does not drop one rpm and goes right through that CRS right now!





04-09-2009, 07:30 PM
I started building the Hoglet V Twin


04-09-2009, 07:36 PM



The Photos of the motor look a bit strange, it hangs from a 1/2 thick steel plate under the lathe work bench. The VFD is in a "mock up" mode just to get it all running and will get a box and probably some switching. Although with a small cord the key pad is removable so is sort of remote control.

From the earlier post. The turret center height was 1/4 inch above the spindle center height so that is the amount of lowering done with the drill chuck holders. The headstock has no bull gear. The bullgear was keyed to the spindle and the pulley system was engaged on the bull gear to drive the spindle. Missing this piece and not wanting to spend the $125 and up for one I turned down a 4 3/8 by 2 inch piece of CRS bored it to 1.491 to mount the spindle, cut the key way and put a step on it for a set screw to press on the key and had a $10 drive repair. (I have since found a full headstock with spindle and all back gear and bull gear pieces for a good price but if I don't need to for torque I probably won't mount the back gear drive on this lathe. That of course leaves me another headstock and spindle for, say, another project.:rolleyes:

Mike Burdick
04-10-2009, 02:39 AM

Something you might consider adding to your welding table... and that's a cutting area on one side!

Next time you're down at the scrap yard keep your eyes open for some steel floor grate like shown in the photo below. Add about a one-foot strip of it to one side of your table. If the floor grate is held crosswise by a small piece of steel then put that at the bottom so your torch won't cut it.


John Stevenson
04-10-2009, 04:51 AM
I did the same on my TOS, I bought a Enco turret off a Harrison lathe and it fitted the bed but was 1/2" down and 3/8" to one side.
I turned the original hex off to leave a top hatted piece to keep all the ratchet arrangement and sleeved it with a big lump of cast iron that was lying around.

Then drill and reamed this from the headstock so it has to be in line.


04-10-2009, 06:03 AM
Mike raises some good points.......

First pic is your generic variety 3/8" I built a few years ago, second one is what I would consider the ultimate table, built by a fella in BC.........drool



04-10-2009, 06:07 AM
Heres another one I just got, originally I was just going to use the 3/4" plate to cut up but it's way to good for that, about the only thing I would change is having the plate fully supported and the cut off table reversed to the overhang end, vise was still on it.........good fortune was with me that day.



04-10-2009, 09:26 AM
Next time you're down at the scrap yard keep your eyes open for some steel floor grate like shown in the photo below.

Good thought. I see that hardtail has something similar on the end of his new table as well. It even has a little slag collector - fancy.

I found a set of steel wheels at the local Andersons for under $6 ea. I am working on a thought for mounting them now.

I even have some stainless around here somewhere so Davids thought will become a reality as well. And the hitch receiver idea was trick as well. Dang, I just dont have enough time to add it all!

But - I have some real shop work I have to do first. To be honest, I was just happy to roll the mig, tig and torch under my new table and get them out of the way.


04-10-2009, 12:33 PM
I did the same on my TOS, I bought a Enco turret off a Harrison lathe and it fitted the bed but was 1/2" down and 3/8" to one side.
I turned the original hex off to leave a top hatted piece to keep all the ratchet arrangement and sleeved it with a big lump of cast iron that was lying around.

Then drill and reamed this from the headstock so it has to be in line.



Thats a great idea for a fix, I had pondered several alternatives from turning a whole new round toll head to having the bottom milled and the boss returned. I went with what I thought would be the least likely to mess up the original fixture in case I was to swap it for a 10" version at some point.
Thanks for the idea I'll keep it in mind

04-11-2009, 04:45 AM
I've been sorting out my 'new' mill.
Bought unseen off ebay (OK, I could have spent half a day or longer going to check it out beforehand but didn't make the time). Third picture down on this page


It's a true Universal (swivelling table) horizontal mill as well as a turret vertical mill.
Nice machine, I needed to put it to work as soon as it arrived but like any secondhand machine there were issues to deal with. I want to get them out of the way before it becomes 'part of the furniture' and sorting them out becomes something that I'll 'get round to soon' ;)
It's quite a tall machine, I need to stand on a step to change the belt setting in the head, and getting the belt on & off the bottom speed position is a bit of a pain, so fitting a VFD for the head motor was a priority especially as I'd become used to having one on the mill which it replaced. I've used a 3-phase input VFD because it's a 2-speed motor, simpler than trying to change the motor voltage to make use of a single-phase unit. Also 3-phase input drives can often be found more cheaply here in the UK.
Next was to sort out the noisy feed gearbox, this was enough to be a serious annoyance. Sounded like bad motor bearings, but turned out to be bearings on the worm input shaft, direcly driven from the motor shaft but within the box.
Picture 1 on the Lathes.co.uk page shows the feed box, it's all contained on the back of a cast iron panel bolted to the right hand side of the knee.
The inside of the feed box can be seen here:-

I was doubtful that the bearings were bad enough to cause all that noise, expected the noise from the gearing alone to be fairly intrusive, but now it runs very sweetly & I'm pleasantly surprised at how quiet it is (the feed motor is running all the time that the machine is switched on).
Remaining jobs are to sort out the way wipers, and to fit a DRO.
I fancied fitting a 3-axis unit, but looked at the price of new asian imports to suit that machine and decided it was too much money. The sterling exchange rate with most of the world has dropped a long way in recent months so that sort of thing appears a lot dearer than we've been used to for a few years.
I've got a Mitutoyo 2-axis unit which came off a lathe which I broke up, the counter does have bolt circle functions etc, but the long scale is too long so I'm planning a bit of nervous glass cutting in the near future :rolleyes:


04-11-2009, 06:07 AM
Tim that is a nice beefy mill with all the options, your gonna love that one......

Rockrat, if you have a source to grating great, if not I recall a fella saying they did a lot of cutting and they just set angle underneath the opening as a stop and tacked some spacers in between on the sides and used flat stock on edge for the grate, they could flip it over for another use and then just cut and slip in however many new ones were needed.