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I use diesel rather than kerosene. Have been told, by more than one person, that kerosene can cause rust, whereas diesel won't. Don't know how true that is, but I've been happy. Also, I've noticed that metal kerosene containers do show some rusting after a time.
Don't know about difference btwn #1 and #2. Have wondered the same myself.
[This message has been edited by lynnl (edited 08-29-2003).]
Part of the decision lies in the work environment and part has to do with the nature of the work and the soil to be removed. The attraction of diesel fuel is supposedly a low flashpoint. What few people consider is ALL flammible liquids when wicked into a rag can still be ignited by a stray welding spark. The flashpoint limits the speed of fire propagation but does not eliminate fire hazard when the whole of industrial cleaning operation in considered in a complex working envirnment. Diesel atomized by an incautious air blast is at least as explosive as gasoline vapors.
Diesel fuel is convenient and it's quite effective. I hate diesel fuel because even through nitryl gloves it gets to me and I can't abide the smell. I HATE it when my lunch smells like diesel.
Kerosene isn't a real good choice either. While Chevron Pearl kerosene is a refined product some other grades contain sulfur and other stuff whose residues may promote rust. Kerosene has limited "carrying power" that it soon saturates with gears and oil washed from the dirty parts. I use it reluctantly.
I use mineral spirits paint thinner for general purpose mechanical parts cleaning. It doesn't seem to attack my hands, stinks less, is readily available (I stock up in the spring paint sales), costs about half the per gallon price of kerosense, and dries quicker and cleaner - also there's less of a rust problem.
Regardless, cleaned bare steel part still have to be protected. If re-assembly is more than a day in the future and once the parts are clean and dry and they should be sprayed with a real perservative and bagged for storage. I keep a box of one gallon Glad bags and a spray can of LPS 3 next to the cleaning station.
Commercial propritary solvents are available from industrial supply houses and auto supply stores for about the price of kerosene and they have a higher flash point.
Agitene comes to mind; they sell a version that's very aggressive where you HAVE to wear gloves and a version that's not so agressive but kind to bare skin.
The carrying power of these commercial cleanring solvents is remarkable. I've used them when they carry such a grease burden they look like thickened vegetable soup but they still cut the dirt.
Commercial solvents services are a good idea for small shops who work with dirty parts on a daily basis. For a monthly fee they show up, change out your solvent for fresh, and process the spent solvent resoring the goodies to proper balance. No EPA disposal problems for you - they take care of all that.
The parts washer's best friend is a putty knife, a wire brush, a stick sharpened like a chisel, and a flattened box. Use them to remove the caked-on crud and globbed grease. There's no point waiting half a day while soaking off a half inch of adherent cake and goo when a minute with a putty knife over the cardboard will accomplish the same task - and you save the solvent for the final clean up.
I called Lowes and they have the lower smell type mineral spirits for $4.46/gal. I don't think I pay that much for it, but then I buy the regular stuff.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MikeH: Forest, where do you get mineral spirirs so cheaply? Around here it is $7.50+ per gallon.</font>
I have used "varsol" for years with no problems. Odor is not that bad and its cheap. I think the last time I paid less than $5. for 4 liters. A lot of stores call it paint thinner but it's not turpentine. That stuff can give you a headache. Painters buy it by the 20 liter bucket (5gallon)for about $20.00 a pail. It seams to leave a dryer surface after it evaporates or is dried off.
The best two I have found is:
a) D-Limonene (Citrus peel oil) will disolve silicone oils, some plastics, oils & grease don't stand a chance. Non-toxic, flammable pure, inert when mixed with water.
b) Vim Oxy-Gel - mix in water and drop greasy crap in it. Let soak, but watch it as IT WILL RUST STEEL QUICKLY! Best cleaner I ever used - even makes the floors like new.
Where do you get those two products Dave mentions?
I just bought some of the POR-15 stuff for some rust refinishing I have in mind. Haven't used it yet but I'm wondering if the "Marine Clean" they have is just an overpriced version of some other cleaners. It smells awfully familiar.
I buy the D-Limonene from a chemical distributor for $55 (CDN)/20 L pail. You get a nice steel pail too! Red even!
The Vim Oxy-Gel I buy in a 5 liter jug (blue-green plastic) at Costco for $14 (CDN $). I was cleaning an old roller bushing fro a freinds JD combine - just dropped it into the Vim and hot water for two hours, came back and the grease was gone but it started to rust already! Unbelievable what it can do. Like I said, it cleans the floors unlike anything I have ever used - regular cleaners make them feel sticky to me - the Vim strips it clean so it feels like a fresh "like new" floor again. IT ROCKS, MAN!
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