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macona
04-30-2009, 06:02 AM
Since the other thread progressed from a gloat thread to something more substantial I decided to start a new thread about the retrofit.

Previous thread here:

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=34521

Today I installed the Z axis motor. Fits good. Enough movement to allow belt tensioning. Heres pics of the lathe without the chip guard and lead screw. Sorry about the pic. Had my aperture a bit too open.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3631/3488459012_9703918327_b.jpg

Here are the motors I am using for X and Z. SimpleServo motors made by ACTech/Lenze. 200 watts (~1/4HP) with brake, 3000 RPM rated, 4500 Max, 2000 line encoders. The drives run off 120v and take step/dir inputs as well as analog. Drives are tuned through a pc with a serial port.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3541/3488458342_1b0972c8e0_b.jpg

This might be the motor I use for the spindle. Kollmorgen AC Brushless, Resolver feedback. About 1HP. 1900RPM max. The drives are Superior Electric Slo-Syn SS2000 drives. Analog input. The smaller unit is the power supply that runs the drive. It provides buss voltage and logic power. Its awful bulky so I am not sure. Again, too big of aperture so lack of depth of field.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3487645537_46baec0553_b.jpg

Took apart the tool turret as well tonight and figured it out. Really neat mechanism and very well made. The housing is cast iron. Where the turret rotates the bearing surface is hand scraped. The turret is pretty simple to control. Runs off 24v dc. Two wires for motor. three internal microswitches. One senses turret locked, one senses home and one senses each position. The way it operates is this. Power is applied to the motor to make it turn clockwise looking at the face of the turret. The shaft turns gearing which pulls a conical pin back that unlocks the turret. The turret is now rotates clockwise. When the in-position switch closes the control stops the motor and reverses it. This causes the conical pin to seat which locks the turret in place and also brings it into alignment. The lock microswitch closes and tells the control to turn off the motor. The home switch in the turret activates when tool #8 is in position.

Should be real easy to make work. Just a little h-bridge chip and a little micro controller. Maybe something like the arduino that everyone is talking about.

My friend managed to figure the pinout on the keyboard. Looks like everything maps to pretty much normal ACSII on the 8 bit parallel output. Might try one of these Teensy micro controllers to get the computer to see it as a normal keyboard. http://www.pjrc.com/store/teensypp.html Supposedly there is info how to make windows treat it as a HID USB device.

luthor
04-30-2009, 08:41 AM
It would be a good idea to upgrade the spindle drive motor with that 1hp version you have as the standard 3/4hp is a little under powered for serious turning, especially screwcutting. Hercus did offer an optional 0.75kW (1hp) motor with upgraded spindle drive board but I have only ever seen the standard motor fitted.

macona
05-01-2009, 04:02 AM
Actually the motor in the late is .55kw but it is a 180v motor and they are running it on 90v. So you dont even get the performance that it is good for.

I think I have figured out what I am doing for the spindle now. I have a compumotor 750w brushless motor that will fit in there if I modify the amphenol connectors that connect the encoder and motor power leads to the motor. The drive that was intended for the motor is toast and the one I hoped to use with it dosnt have the voltage to run the motor at anywhere full power. The motor needs 240v and the drive would only put out about 120v.

So I found a Glentek drive on ebay that should do the trick:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330323927179

I still need 240v for the motor so I am going to use the transformer that was in the machine to up the 120v to 240v. Hope the transformer will be enough.

I got the X axis Servo mounted today. Took a bit of figuring. Milled out the existing mount to drop the centerline of the motor lower and made an adapter plate to mount the new servo to the old servo's holes. It all still fits in the old box. Need to order new pulleys now and figure out the belt length needed.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3490889212_e324f26eee_b.jpg

macona
05-16-2009, 03:17 AM
Made some more progress on the lathe in the past couple weeks. The connectors for the servo motors showed up. I build a heatsink to hold the drives and made ducting to get air moving through them. Got the power wired up to the drives. Bad news. One of the drives is bad. When I first hooke up power everything seemed normal. But when I enabled the drive it started running without an input. Not good. Disconnect and reconnected the drive and now its pretty much dead. All the lights come on and stay on. No response to the computer either. The other drive works fine though, even with the same cables and motor. This sucks...

But I have a couple mitsubishi drives and motors. One 200w and one 400w. So for now I am going to use them even though the 400w is way overkill for the Z axis. Thats over 1/2HP.

I also got the glentek servo drive running with the compumotor motor I have. Had to adjust the timing of the encoder to get it to commutate right though. Now it seems to work good. At 208v input it runs at about 2900 RPM and on 240v it runs at 3200 RPM. Belted to the spindle thats about 3300RPM max in high belt and 1200RPM max in low belt. Incredible starting torque. Spins up in a fraction of a second.

The pulleys showed up from SDP-SI yesterday. Machined them out and got them mounted. Had to figure out how to mount the new spindle motor. The power and encoder connection are large amphenols and with the motor mounted to the original mount the connectors fell smack in the middle of a bed rib. So I needed to move the motor back about 3/4" to clear the rib. Took the old end bell off the old motor and used that to make an extension/adapter. Also had to extend the shaft a bit since the shaft would only pass about 1/2" into the pulley.

Now the machine is pretty much mechanically finished. Its all electrical now. Need to get a motherboard for the computer section. A BOB as well. Need to come up with a way to control the tool changer as well. Might be able to do this through Mach with a "brain".

I have also decided to run the thing on 240v instead of 120. The new spindle drive needs it for the motor. Even if I used the old motor it still needed 240v to run the correct drive for the motor. Unfortunately the Mitsubishi servos I have are 100-120v in, not the normal 240v so I found a couple drives off ebay. I will use the 400W until I can find a 200 watt motor and drive to replace it.

I did disasseble it and clean it up. Looks a lot better. There was still bluing under the headstock where they scraped it into alignment with the bed!

I cant imagine how much this machine must of cost when it was new. There are three resolvers in the machine and those things sell for $1500 each nowadays.

New Drive motor:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2213/3534654277_862afacdfe_b.jpg

Backside with new X axis motor and new cable guide.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3534654801_932a365ec9_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3542/3534654565_22d890fed4_b.jpg

Paul in OKC
05-22-2009, 06:58 PM
Glad I found this. I will be picking up one of these in a couple of weeks. I haven't seen it yet, but the guy says the control panel is mounted above the bed. Thing is about 6' tall he says. Anyway, if it is anything close to what you have here, I will be pleased. Supposedly came out of a vo-tech with little use. His is a bit smaller, I would guess. Says it is 8" swing over bed, 4" over carriage, 12" center to center, with the tool changer, too!

luthor
05-22-2009, 08:50 PM
Paul, Hercus call that their Industrial Version, it is fully enclosed with perpex splash guards, coolant system and machine light. Should be a good machine if you can get it working.

Paul in OKC
05-22-2009, 11:45 PM
Cool! I am looking forward to playing with it.

macona
05-24-2009, 11:32 PM
There is mention of a version of the machine with coolant capability. That must be the one you have. I may add a spray mist unit to it. I have another Bijur unit sitting new in the box.

Made some progress on the lathe in the past week. Got all the limit switches and tool changer switches wired up to a bank of relays for isolation. Got to thinking about it and added three more relays and now have the tool changer fully controlled by relay logic. Two inputs, one sends the turret to home position and the other indexes it one position at a time. Really quick changer. About a second from tool to tool.

Got the two 200-230 versions of the Mitsubishi drives off ebay and wired them up. Both work good. I can jog the axis's via the built in control panel. Also got the spindle drive mounted and wired in. Hooked it to a cnc4pc C6 step/dir to analog speed control board that used to be in my mill until I installed one of Peter Homanns Digispeed boards.

Now I am waiting to get paid so I can buy a motherboard to go in there. Also need to figure out what I want to do for a breakout board. I think I can do all the IO on one parallel port since I am going to use a PoKeys 55T for the control panel interface.

A friend who works down at FEI may be getting me one of the old miniITX boards they use in their electron microscopes so that may solve my mobo issue.

Heres a couple pics of it so far. Axis drives are in the bottom left, spindle drive with its control in the bottom right. Relays and terminal strip down the center. +24v/12v/-12v/+5/-5v power supply top left. Top center is the limit switch breakout. Open area is where the mobo and breakout board will reside.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3367/3560823511_5f45360dbd_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3561640586_c1e5b98388_b.jpg

Paul in OKC
06-01-2009, 10:32 PM
The guy I am getting mine from was on vacation last week. Will be getting with him some time this week to make arrangements to pick it up. He already gave me the manual. It has coolant, and the 3 jaw is pneumatic, apparently. Getting anxious! Thinking of it needing any wiring is not a good thought, as I am generally electrically challenged!

Paul in OKC
06-06-2009, 12:37 AM
Well, picked mine up today. Will post a pic later, still on the back of the pick up. Did plug it in and turn it on. Got some lights, but no screen, and no power to move anything, so.....

Paul in OKC
06-06-2009, 05:08 PM
Well, what is the trick to post a picture?

Paul in OKC
06-07-2009, 04:19 PM
http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt146/phdesigns/
Link to pics, I hope!

macona
06-08-2009, 04:43 AM
Neat machine. I am curious how that power chuck works.

Does it do anything when you hit the on button on the control. The estop is missing there below the power switch but that should not stop it from booting up. But I could be wrong. The two connections should be connected together when estop is up.

I have the manuals for the machine but unfortunately there are no service instructions.

luthor
06-08-2009, 08:12 AM
Paul, is there anything on the screen, maybe just a curser? You may have to clear the multi bus, I have the instructions for this procedure.

Paul in OKC
06-08-2009, 09:33 AM
Paul, is there anything on the screen, maybe just a curser? You may have to clear the multi bus, I have the instructions for this procedure.
I have the manual, but said, no maintainance instructions. There is nothing on the screen at all. I have the estop button, it popped out when I turned the key. I have emailed Ultra Logic and the reply stated that the estop button must be in safe mode for the power button to work. I will get it back in today, and will have the little battery replaced in a day or two as well. Going to make it off board, at least for the battery holder. Any instructions that will help are certainly appreciated! Thanks.

macona
06-08-2009, 03:26 PM
Check the battery with a volt meter. Should be around 3.6v. That looks like a newer lithium so it may have been replaced somewhat recently.

Paul in OKC
06-08-2009, 06:37 PM
Check the battery with a volt meter. Should be around 3.6v. That looks like a newer lithium so it may have been replaced somewhat recently.
Zippo. Just put a new one on it. Put the e-stop button back in. Found the 'proper' sequence for powering up in the manual. I can get the light over the bed to come on, and some buttons to light up when I hit the manual button, but still nothing on the screen, and no sign of life otherwise.

clutch
06-08-2009, 07:36 PM
Got the two 200-230 versions of the Mitsubishi drives off ebay and wired them up. Both work good. I can jog the axis's via the built in control panel. Also got the spindle drive mounted and wired in. Hooked it to a cnc4pc C6 step/dir to analog speed control board that used to be in my mill until I installed one of Peter Homanns Digispeed boards.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3561640586_c1e5b98388_b.jpg

Is that a MRJ2 Mitsubishi control? Just wondered, I our quick turn and multiplex's have them.

Clutch

macona
06-08-2009, 09:04 PM
That sucks Paul. The manual switch directly controls the power to the lamps that light up in the other switches. So that tells you you do have 24vdc coming out if the power supply which is good.

Check the card edge connector to the back of the monitor to make sure that is secure. Also start checking voltages. A lot of the connectors are labeled with the voltage or signal present.

The board behind the keyboard is the board that controls the power. Even with the main board being dead on min the cursor would pop up as that was generated by the board behind the keyboard. If there is voltage to the board and the monitor one if them might be bad. I have spares of these since I don't use them any more in my retro. The vdu board shouldbbe getting +/- 12 and 5v. Not sure on the monitor.

One last thing I found about three of the switches on my front panel were not actually switching when pushed. Cleaning them helped.

Paul in OKC
06-09-2009, 12:29 AM
I will be checking those things out tomorrow. Thanks for the info. The down side of this thing is electronics are a foreign language to me, but I am hoping to learn more as this project rolls along. I was able to leave the machine at the shop where I work, so that helps. At least there are a couple of guys that can giude me somewhat. And if not, there is a local company that we call out to work on the 'real' cnc machines when they go down past what we can fix ourselves. May spend their minimum charge ($200) and get a couple of hours of trouble shooting out of them, but that will wait just a bit. I do want to see what I can figure out before then. That $$ can go to better things, I hope!

macona
06-09-2009, 04:37 AM
Is that a MRJ2 Mitsubishi control? Just wondered, I our quick turn and multiplex's have them.

Clutch

Yep. MR-2J-40A and 20A. I have a MR-J-350A with 2kw motor in my 10EE for the spindle as well. Seems to be good drives.

I have been collecting drives and motors as I can find them. As for Mitsubishi drives and motors I still have another MR-J-200A w 1.5kw motor, MR-J-350A, MR-H-500AN w 5kw motor, MR-H-200AN w/2kw motor, two MR-H-100AN w 1kw motors, MR-2J-40A1, MR-2JS-20A1 and a 3.5kw motor for the MR-2JS series drives. I also have some brand new Kollmorgen explosion proof motors and slo-syn drives to go with them. Also a couple 1.8kw CMC motors and a couple Aerotech drives.

After building a couple machines and retrofitting another with steppers in the past and then using servos I will never go back to steppers again. The performance and silence are wonderful!

Probably the next machine on the list to be built will be a plasma table. I have a water cooled machine torch for my Stak Pak plasma.

clutch
06-09-2009, 07:19 PM
Yep. MR-2J-40A and 20A. I have a MR-J-350A with 2kw motor in my 10EE for the spindle as well. Seems to be good drives.

Did you get the software to tune / set parameters in the drives?

Clutch

macona
06-09-2009, 09:21 PM
Yeah, I did. Took a bit of searching though.

The parameters and auto tune can be set via the front panel though. But I will need the software for sure when I go to use the MR-H series drives. They must be programmed with either a pendant or a computer.

Paul in OKC
06-09-2009, 11:58 PM
Well, didn't get much time tinkering today, but did find a loose wire on the back of the moitor area. There is a blue plastic conector at the very back labeled A thru L, right to left. The 'L' tab is broken off right at the plastic. Going to see what I can do tomorrow. Tried holding it to make a contact, but no change. No more life than before. There is a video plug on the front panel, might try hooking it up to a tv and see what happens.

Paul in OKC
06-10-2009, 04:30 PM
Got the wire fixed, still no more life. Pulled the monitor, hooked up a computer monitor to the video plug, it would intermitently light up the back light of the monitor, but no more. I am trying to get ahold of someone from where this thing spent what I would assume was most of it's previous life and see if I can find out anything.

macona
06-10-2009, 11:47 PM
The video out should be composite video out. So hook it to the yellow video input on a tv or lcd monitor with composite in.

Paul in OKC
06-11-2009, 02:55 PM
The video out should be composite video out. So hook it to the yellow video input on a tv or lcd monitor with composite in.
Yep, did that. No time today, but I think I am just going to start athte plug end and work my way into it! I did take the side cover off and found a couple of main switches there. One comes on with the power button, but the other just sits there. Any thoughts?

.RC.
06-11-2009, 07:34 PM
Have you tried contacting Hercus or ANCA????

Paul in OKC
06-11-2009, 09:18 PM
I have had some contact with a guy at Ultra Logic over there. Not sure how much info I will get by email back and forth, but an trying to see if they ever had any kind of maintainance manual for these things.
I started today just putting a volt meter to a few things. Not being any kind of electrical I am not real sure of where to go, but Ijust started at the Siemens switches on the side. All I got any where there was around 60 volts. When looking at what I assume was the power supply, the wires marked 17, or 30 volts checked just that. Places marked 115v only again got about half. So, is that normal, or what should I check in between? I am about ready to go ahead and call our regular machine repair folks and cough up the $200 for some of their time.

macona
06-11-2009, 11:20 PM
Ultra Logic is about the only support there is for these old machines. Both Anca and Hercus have washed their hands of them. Hercus will install a new control for you though. $$$

Check power where it comes into the machine and follow that in until you get low voltage. Some higher res pics would help and close ups of the cabinet.

From the pictures the machine looks to have the same setup as mine did. There is a black transformer where the doors come together. This supplies a lot of the power for the machine. On the side of the transformer with two sets of blue and a green ground measure with the meter across where it says 115v. If it is low then you may have a bad power switch. Follow the wires back from this side of the transformer and find the switch that is bad.

Also check the power at the wall to make sure your meter is reading correctly. I have had meters give errors if the batteries are weak.

lazlo
06-11-2009, 11:25 PM
The parameters and auto tune can be set via the front panel though. But I will need the software for sure when I go to use the MR-H series drives. They must be programmed with either a pendant or a computer.

Jerry, I mentioned in one of our PM's that I have the H-series pendant -- you can borrow it if you promise to return it :)

macona
06-11-2009, 11:55 PM
Thanks for the offer. I have no idea when I might actually use these motors and drives. Think I might use the two 1 KW drives for a plasma table. I need to test them all first though. I dont know what was wrong with the machine that I pulled them out of. One was missing its encoder cable so I dont know if there was an issue there or they just robbed a part from this machine to keep the other going.

Paul in OKC
06-12-2009, 09:19 AM
Ultra Logic is about the only support there is for these old machines. Both Anca and Hercus have washed their hands of them. Hercus will install a new control for you though. $$$

Check power where it comes into the machine and follow that in until you get low voltage. Some higher res pics would help and close ups of the cabinet.

From the pictures the machine looks to have the same setup as mine did. There is a black transformer where the doors come together. This supplies a lot of the power for the machine. On the side of the transformer with two sets of blue and a green ground measure with the meter across where it says 115v. If it is low then you may have a bad power switch. Follow the wires back from this side of the transformer and find the switch that is bad.

Also check the power at the wall to make sure your meter is reading correctly. I have had meters give errors if the batteries are weak.
Will try to get a better pic today. But you are correct in where the transformer is, and that is where I got about half voltage onthe 115v wires. I will double check the meter, didn't think of that. Thanks.

Paul in OKC
06-12-2009, 05:33 PM
Posted some electrical pics in photobucket.
http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt146/phdesigns/

macona
06-12-2009, 07:59 PM
The first pic that shows up are contactors. The module below one is an overload device. That pair probably controls the coolant pump. The other may control main power. Don't know for sure. I would think the solenoid valve for the pneumatic chuck would use a small relay.

You do have air hooked to it, right? There may me a pressure switch on it someplace. But the main thing is you need to trace back from the transformer and find the bad connection, switch, or contactor.

Paul in OKC
06-12-2009, 10:00 PM
The first pic that shows up are contactors. The module below one is an overload device. That pair probably controls the coolant pump. The other may control main power. Don't know for sure. I would think the solenoid valve for the pneumatic chuck would use a small relay.

You do have air hooked to it, right? There may me a pressure switch on it someplace. But the main thing is you need to trace back from the transformer and find the bad connection, switch, or contactor.
Yep, had air to it every time. When I turn on the power, the left switch 'activates'. The little black square button goes in. I did get 115v at the transformer today by touching two wires, instread of one and a ground. Trying to be patient, but the inside of this thing is just....just.......

macona
06-14-2009, 12:09 AM
That sucks. That means your input supply is good. So much for an easy fix.

Next step is to check the power supply. It is mounted under the main board. If I remember it provides +24, +5v, +15v, and -15v. Test all of these relative to the same common wire. I have a feeling it is good since the lights for manual operation come on when you hit the switch.

Other than that go through and unplug and reseat the connections.

If that does not work you are probably SOL. Calling someone out will probably be a waste of $200 since they cant even get parts if you needed them.

Paul in OKC
06-14-2009, 05:25 PM
That sucks. That means your input supply is good. So much for an easy fix.

Next step is to check the power supply. It is mounted under the main board. If I remember it provides +24, +5v, +15v, and -15v. Test all of these relative to the same common wire. I have a feeling it is good since the lights for manual operation come on when you hit the switch.

Other than that go through and unplug and reseat the connections.

If that does not work you are probably SOL. Calling someone out will probably be a waste of $200 since they cant even get parts if you needed them.
I will do that. I did go thru the power supply somewhat, and got some of those voltages, but will do it again a bit more thoroughly. If it ends up being a total redo, may just give it back to the guy I got it from. But then again....

macona
06-14-2009, 05:55 PM
I would keep it and retrofit it. You dont have to go as crazy as I have. You can replace the resolvers on the axis motors and then use a gecko servo drive to run them. For the spindle I would use a KBIC-225 to run the spindle motor. This will require you to run the thing off 240v though. The spindle motor on the machine is rated for 180v but they for some reason are running it half voltage.

Throw a motherboard in the machine, couple breakout boards, and a spindle control board from homanndesigns.com

That leaves the tool changer.

luthor
06-14-2009, 11:50 PM
Don't give up on it yet Paul, these machines are very reliable once the bugs are sorted out. It seems that you have some switches in the wrong positions ie. Debug - Executive should be towards Executive, VBat should be towards Reset switch and Write Protect should be towards Write. Once set up in this configuration check for green Watch Dog light on main board.
If the geen light does not come on the CNC processor is not operational.
If the red Failure light comes on then there is a failure in the system.

When switching from Debug to Executive or vise versa you must then press the Reset button.

Paul in OKC
06-15-2009, 12:08 AM
Don't give up on it yet Paul, these machines are very reliable once the bugs are sorted out. It seems that you have some switches in the wrong positions ie. Debug - Executive should be towards Executive, VBat should be towards Reset switch and Write Protect should be towards Write. Once set up in this configuration check for green Watch Dog light on main board.
If the geen light does not come on the CNC processor is not operational.
If the red Failure light comes on then there is a failure in the system.

When switching from Debug to Executive or vise versa you must then press the Reset button.
Yeah, I'l be patient. Luthor, I will give those things a look tomorrow at the shop, thanks.

Paul in OKC
06-15-2009, 02:59 PM
Well, same same. Not being electrical is very frustrating at this point. I may still have them guys out, even at $200 they may be able to tell me where the issue is. Right now I am out nothing for the machine, so......Will most likely take the machine over to their shop. At least I wont be paying for travel time and get a bit more for my money.

luthor
06-15-2009, 07:50 PM
Do you have the green watch dog light??

Paul in OKC
06-15-2009, 09:55 PM
Do you have the green watch dog light??

Not sure which one that is. On the wire panel to the right, where the relays are, there is a green light at the bottom that is on, on the left side. The light at the bottom right will blink when I hit the reset button over by the vbat switch, but other than a click, it does not stay on. Should it?
The bottom right fan in the cabinet was not hooked up, I took care of that today. Some success!

macona
06-16-2009, 02:46 PM
The LED he is referring to is labeled LED1 on the main board. Maybe 7 inches from the bottom of the board and 5 inches from the right.

Paul in OKC
06-16-2009, 08:44 PM
Found it, and no, it is not on. When I push the reset button, the lower right relay clicks, and that light blinks, but that is all.

macona
06-16-2009, 10:34 PM
Well, last thing is to check the power supply input to the board. If that is good the board is probably bad.

Wish I was closer...

Paul in OKC
06-16-2009, 11:32 PM
Well, last thing is to check the power supply input to the board. If that is good the board is probably bad.

Wish I was closer...
Me too. I do appreciate all the info and direction. Will do some more checking on what ever I can for a while. I'm sure I will find another question or two to ask.

luthor
06-19-2009, 08:14 AM
Something else for you to check Paul, there is an Opto Isolator at U80 on the main board that often goes bad. Pins 1 and 2 of this are an LED which can be checked with a digital mulit meter on diode test. Also check for .2 to .25 volts at TP1 on main board.

Paul in OKC
06-19-2009, 12:41 PM
Something else for you to check Paul, there is an Opto Isolator at U80 on the main board that often goes bad. Pins 1 and 2 of this are an LED which can be checked with a digital mulit meter on diode test. Also check for .2 to .25 volts at TP1 on main board.

Thanks Luthor, will check that out.

Paul in OKC
06-19-2009, 10:47 PM
Ok, I must show my ignorance again of this thing. I went looking for the Opto isolator and U80, found U-everything but 80. But it was a long day at the shop, so a little general area would be appreciated!

Liger Zero
06-19-2009, 10:49 PM
Paul can you get a shot of the board for us? Maybe a second set of eyes and all that...

Paul in OKC
06-19-2009, 11:55 PM
Paul can you get a shot of the board for us? Maybe a second set of eyes and all that...
There is one here, but I will work to get a better one if needed. Thank you.
http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt146/phdesigns/

macona
06-21-2009, 12:48 AM
U80 is smack dab in the middle of this pic:

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt146/phdesigns/lathe-electrical011.jpg

Paul in OKC
06-21-2009, 09:52 AM
Couldn't see the forest for the trees, I guess. I will check it Monday. Thank you . I notice a bit of what looks like corrosion on the thing to the right, is that something to worry about? Probably came off the old battery.

Liger Zero
06-21-2009, 02:01 PM
Heh heh heh, that's why I suggested the picture. Can be difficult to locate something in a maze like that, I always seek a second opinion in these situations.

luthor
06-21-2009, 08:10 PM
Yes that board does show signs of corrosion cause by a leaking battery, a lot of these boards have been competely destoyed by this. You need to clean off as much as possible then assess the damage.

Paul in OKC
06-21-2009, 10:03 PM
What is the best way to clean it?

Paul in OKC
06-22-2009, 07:35 PM
Ok, checked the U80. Got no voltage going across the bottom two pins, none on the next two, and about 1.6 on the top two. Also was looking behind the main board from the right side. There is a power supply back there, and it has a red led on. Not sure if that is just a power on indicator or what.

macona
06-23-2009, 04:36 PM
IC pins are numbered in a CCW order starting from the pin with the dot next to it. So the part in the picture pin 1 is bottom right, 2 is middle right, 3 is top right, 4 is top left, etc...

The red light on the power supply is just a power on light.

Paul in OKC
06-27-2009, 07:06 PM
Well, will have to recheck it on Monday. Got to looking at it and not real sure what voltage I got out of it. But one time I slipped and touched both 1 and 2 at the same time, and it clicked the same relay and made the same lights blink as if I hit the reset button.

Paul in OKC
07-19-2009, 09:18 PM
Well, made no progress of late. I am just not electronic enough to jump in. Have had contact with Ultra Logic. They do not make available any schematics for the machine. Figure it is a revenue loss to allow others to know how to work on one, basically what I interpret. He did offer to refurb if I sent it there. Guess I will look at retro-fitting. I have seen your new thread, marcona, and maybe I can find someone here with enough electrical savy to help me out! Would it be possible to find servos and a controll package from some one to basically put in and go from there?

macona
07-31-2009, 01:51 AM
The main problem is the machine uses resolvers instead of encoders for motor feedback. In one were to remove the old resolvers and install encoders you could keep the original motors and use something like a geckodrive 320 to run the servos.

You wont find a plug and play kit since there are not very many of these things around.