I'm looking to cut a countersunk groove, 1/2 inch in length. The goal is for a 2-56 flathead screw to do two things: be flush when screwed in, and when loosened, be able to travel the length of the 1/2 inch for adjustment purposes. I tried a ball endmill but the screws, although sat flush, didn't sit well due to the ball curve of the cutter. Which type of end mill should I use? Is there a certain term for this type of cutter? Here's a couple pics of my first attempt with ball end cutter:
Which tool to countersink groove?
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Originally posted by websterzA 60* countersink would do a good job in light material. I have done it before with good results. Take a light cut and feed slowly, make 2 or 3 passes if you need to.
Where did you get the scale in your pics? I would love to have one like that!!
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After you cut the slot ,Just cut the angle for the screw head with a standard 82Ø› single flute counter sink. A counter sink will mill too in case you did not know.Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
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Originally posted by SportandmiahI'm looking to cut a countersunk groove, 1/2 inch in length. The goal is for a 2-56 flathead screw to do two things: be flush when screwed in, and when loosened, be able to travel the length of the 1/2 inch for adjustment purposes. I tried a ball endmill but the screws, although sat flush, didn't sit well due to the ball curve of the cutter. Which type of end mill should I use? Is there a certain term for this type of cutter? Here's a couple pics of my first attempt with ball end cutter:
Have you given any thought to using 2-56 flat pan screws?
They be slotted heads that could be face cut to desired thickness.
Use a standard end mill the dia. of the head(screw) and mill in the small recess needed to the length of your slot.
Better holding and securing characteristics while still giving you dimensional adjustment.
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Originally posted by websterzA 60* countersink would do a good job in light material. I have done it before with good results. Take a light cut and feed slowly, make 2 or 3 passes if you need to.
Where did you get the scale in your pics? I would love to have one like that!!
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Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some better screws, still flathead but hex and phillips head, the other day from smallparts.com. I will try the pan screws as well...good idea! I attempted another set of cuts with a countersink/starter drill, but had terrible results. I'll purchase the proper end mill this week. Does the amount of flutes matter? Would I be better off with 0 flutes or 1-4 flutes?Last edited by Sportandmiah; 05-06-2009, 12:58 AM.
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Hmmmmm using a countersink to countersink..........Who'da thunk it!!!
Sorry guys, sometimes the rocket science that gets offered up here for simple tasks is a bit over the top. I'm a big fan of the KISS principle ....keep it simple silly! So for me using a 82 degree countersink to countersink your piece seems pretty simple....
Just my .02I spent most of my money on women and booze, the rest I just wasted.
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Originally posted by The FixerHmmmmm using a countersink to countersink..........Who'da thunk it!!!
Sorry guys, sometimes the rocket science that gets offered up here for simple tasks is a bit over the top. I'm a big fan of the KISS principle ....keep it simple silly! So for me using a 82 degree countersink to countersink your piece seems pretty simple....
Just my .02
To everyone else, thank you for your help.
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