Ron of Va
05-31-2009, 05:04 PM
I know this is a home machinist form, so I thought maybe some of you would like to see how I made an integrally suppressed 10/22. I have posted this on some silencer forums, so some of you guys may have already seen it. I made it on a Grizzly G4003G.
The unit was based on this design, a sketch I made of my John’s Guns MarkII integral pistol.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/barrelReduced.JPG
The unit is made from a 1 inch 316 stainless DOM tube with a .065 wall thickness, and a .870 inside diameter.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral11.jpg
Photos
1. Completed Unit
2. Broached End Cap (threaded 28 tpi) Major Diameter of threaded area turned to .902 inches before threading. The part of the end cap that fits against the outer tube was bevel cut at about 4º instead of square, to make the end cap almost invisible. The same procedure was done to the end of the tube using the compound slide as shown in photo 13.
3. Tube layout indicating where to cut the barrel, where the threading was going to be and how long the outer tube was going to be. And most importantly, where to install the internal snap ring. If too much barrel is sticking out past the barrel nut, then the exposed threads can collect crud and lock the nut on the end of the barrel. Shoot for flush as in photo 10.
4. The barrel chucked up in the lathe. The chucked end of the barrel is being held in an aluminum collet I made specifically for a 10/22 barrel. The tailstock end is just mounted in a live center (I don’t care about the crown at this point.) Since the barrel was tapered, I needed cut a non tapered area so I could use my 4 jaw chuck to get zero run out of the bore for the threading of the end of the barrel. I also took this time to turn a flat area in front of the V block that would accommodate a bushing that was the same diameter as the receiver end of the barrel. This bushing will help align the tube out front of the V block, see photo 17. The bushing is not resting where it will end up, up inside the barrel a little further. I will probably tack weld the bushing to the barrel.
5. The barrel with bushing and barrel nut installed. I added 2 more ports later. The ports were drilled 5 inches in front of the chamber so the velocity will not be less than that fired from a 5 inch pistol.
6. These photos show how I made the barrel nut. I don’t have a mill so I used a hack saw and some files. One problem emerged. I needed a pattern for the nut. The barrel was threaded ½ X 20 tpi. I needed a nut that required a 5/8” socket. The only kind of nut I could find that fit a 5/8” socket was a 3/8-16 coupling. The coupling was cut, drilled and threaded for ½ X 20. Please note that the barrel nut needs a shoulder for the spacer to sit on. (and the socket fit over the nut). The spacer is placed in front of the barrel nut to create an expansion chamber, and the spacer fits nicely over the created nut. Make sure the spacer has holes drilled in it so you can get a hook on it to remove it.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral2.jpg
7. After some practice (photo 8, 9, 20) I cut the groove for the snap ring about 9 inches deep using a ¾” boring bar. I made sure the groove was just inside where the lathe chuck held the tube. I am pointing at where the groove is going.
8. Shows the practice groove and snap ring.
9. Removal of the snap ring using homemade removal tool I designed for this job.
10. Barrel nut on the end of the barrel.
11. Snap ring removal tool with a 24 inch reach.
12. Snap ring removal tool, business end.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral3.jpg
13. End cap end of the outer tube is beveled to guarantee a good tight fit.
14. Threading for the end cap.
15. Internals displayed.
16. Cutout for the V block.
17. Bushing for in front of the V block. Also note that the inside diameter of the tube (.870) is smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel (.919). So the inside diameter of the tube at the back was bored to .919 to accommodate the bushing and the back of the original barrel.
18. Cutter used for the snap ring groove.
19. Installed snap ring.
20. Practice session for the snap ring groove using a SS tube I got from a salvage yard.
The unit was based on this design, a sketch I made of my John’s Guns MarkII integral pistol.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/barrelReduced.JPG
The unit is made from a 1 inch 316 stainless DOM tube with a .065 wall thickness, and a .870 inside diameter.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral11.jpg
Photos
1. Completed Unit
2. Broached End Cap (threaded 28 tpi) Major Diameter of threaded area turned to .902 inches before threading. The part of the end cap that fits against the outer tube was bevel cut at about 4º instead of square, to make the end cap almost invisible. The same procedure was done to the end of the tube using the compound slide as shown in photo 13.
3. Tube layout indicating where to cut the barrel, where the threading was going to be and how long the outer tube was going to be. And most importantly, where to install the internal snap ring. If too much barrel is sticking out past the barrel nut, then the exposed threads can collect crud and lock the nut on the end of the barrel. Shoot for flush as in photo 10.
4. The barrel chucked up in the lathe. The chucked end of the barrel is being held in an aluminum collet I made specifically for a 10/22 barrel. The tailstock end is just mounted in a live center (I don’t care about the crown at this point.) Since the barrel was tapered, I needed cut a non tapered area so I could use my 4 jaw chuck to get zero run out of the bore for the threading of the end of the barrel. I also took this time to turn a flat area in front of the V block that would accommodate a bushing that was the same diameter as the receiver end of the barrel. This bushing will help align the tube out front of the V block, see photo 17. The bushing is not resting where it will end up, up inside the barrel a little further. I will probably tack weld the bushing to the barrel.
5. The barrel with bushing and barrel nut installed. I added 2 more ports later. The ports were drilled 5 inches in front of the chamber so the velocity will not be less than that fired from a 5 inch pistol.
6. These photos show how I made the barrel nut. I don’t have a mill so I used a hack saw and some files. One problem emerged. I needed a pattern for the nut. The barrel was threaded ½ X 20 tpi. I needed a nut that required a 5/8” socket. The only kind of nut I could find that fit a 5/8” socket was a 3/8-16 coupling. The coupling was cut, drilled and threaded for ½ X 20. Please note that the barrel nut needs a shoulder for the spacer to sit on. (and the socket fit over the nut). The spacer is placed in front of the barrel nut to create an expansion chamber, and the spacer fits nicely over the created nut. Make sure the spacer has holes drilled in it so you can get a hook on it to remove it.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral2.jpg
7. After some practice (photo 8, 9, 20) I cut the groove for the snap ring about 9 inches deep using a ¾” boring bar. I made sure the groove was just inside where the lathe chuck held the tube. I am pointing at where the groove is going.
8. Shows the practice groove and snap ring.
9. Removal of the snap ring using homemade removal tool I designed for this job.
10. Barrel nut on the end of the barrel.
11. Snap ring removal tool with a 24 inch reach.
12. Snap ring removal tool, business end.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Integral3.jpg
13. End cap end of the outer tube is beveled to guarantee a good tight fit.
14. Threading for the end cap.
15. Internals displayed.
16. Cutout for the V block.
17. Bushing for in front of the V block. Also note that the inside diameter of the tube (.870) is smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel (.919). So the inside diameter of the tube at the back was bored to .919 to accommodate the bushing and the back of the original barrel.
18. Cutter used for the snap ring groove.
19. Installed snap ring.
20. Practice session for the snap ring groove using a SS tube I got from a salvage yard.