View Full Version : Bolt action
06-05-2009, 06:32 PM
Starting to design a new project and suggestions any and all are more than welcome especially in cutting the receiver, still can't get my head around that. Just recently figured out how to cut the lugs through a friend who pointed me to Hwingoís post.
By the way nice work on that project Hwingo, and how to do make those pictures? Would have replied to that OT but did not want to bring an older topic up front to just say cool work. Not sure if you came up with an idea for getting rid of the grooves between the lugs, but the picture of this tikka (sako) might give some ideas.
The diameter of the factory bolt (pictured) between lugs is .0002 larger than the balance and guessing they stood on end in an RT to finish this section with a mill. My Remington on the other hand clearly has the grooves you describe and was probably done the same way you did.
This is what I have so far, increased both the bolt and lug diameters to make maximum use of 1Ē stock.
06-05-2009, 06:50 PM
If you made the bolt the same diameter as the lugs or slightly larger. You could machine a key way in the bolt and use a pin in the receiver to guide the bolt. This would make a heavier action though.
06-05-2009, 07:57 PM
Something like this Bob? Just drew the keyway on the side for now cause it was easier. Imagine would need to placed to clear the lugs for removal but no big deal. Certainly turns a whole bunch of long grooves on the ID of the reciever into short ones, which I donít know how to cut. Would certainly stiffen it.
Interesting idea, have you seen it done? Donít think that added weight would be an issue, only .0425 per side.
Boy this side of the forum sure could use a little more traffic, maybe itís just boring.:D
06-05-2009, 09:09 PM
I wish I had paid more attention, but at the NAMES show, someone had an action for a single shot bolt action in progress. The body of the action was of aluminum, and as I recall, there was simply a sleeve with the bolt lugs machined in that had the barrel threads. The sleeve is pinned into the action body.
I believe I saw a similar one on line somewhere also. It makes it somewhat simpler to do the internal features of the action. The lockup is all in the sleeve, which is substantial, the action body merely serving to guide the bolt and anchor things in the stock.
06-05-2009, 11:42 PM
The pin could be a screw or a easily removed pin. It could be place anywhere convenient top bottom or sides.
AR 15/ M16 use that principal. Back in the 80ís one of my shooting buddies made a single shot pistol 7mm TCU - .223 necked up to 7mm using AR 15 bolt and the part the barrel screwed into. Pretty much what you are indicating.
06-06-2009, 10:42 AM
Make a series of piloted broaches, each one slightly larger than the last..02
06-07-2009, 12:24 AM
I have Stuart Ottesonís The Bolt Action Vol. 1 & II. Vol. I gives good info on bolt back thrust and Vol. II has info on full size bolts. Here are two links where you can get C Dís of the books as they are out of print.
06-07-2009, 07:35 PM
Canít get most things from US via mail. Just have PO BOX and most wonít ship to that. Give up trying.
Bummer thing about living in the middle of nowhere, 30 km drive for me each way to PO. Closest city is 200ea.
06-08-2009, 01:08 PM
Bob I realize I don't live as far out in the sticks as you do but I used to have the same problem.
First, when you order something from the US specify that it be shipped USPS (US Postal Service), this keeps the couriers away and avoids them sending you a $40-50 documentation fee later. Then to keep everybody happy put down your physical address (245 Dogpatch Lane or whatever your physical address is), then your actual PO Box number.
If your situation is anything like mine the people in your local post office know who you are and will look right past the physical address and put your parcel in your PO Box.
I ran this by my local postmaster and she said it was a great idea to have both addresses on my parcels, said it made her job easier.
06-08-2009, 11:39 PM
Bob and Hwingo,
Just a thought, one way to remove the machinig flats from the R.T. is to simply bead blast the machined surface. This removes the ridges and stress relieves the bolt at the same time. Should be able to obtain a surface finish in the range of 32 - 64 RMS. A tumbler will also remove the ridges. And this stuff is definitely not boring.
01-05-2010, 04:50 PM
Did I hear someone say it was boring around hear? I've been called a lot of
things beside boring, maybe I slept through that part. I am another Bob. I have spent 42 yrs. building custom tooling, and helping a local gunsmith with
the "don't try it" stuff that he did not have time for.
Bob, do I understand that you are trying to get rid of the sharp undercuts, at the roots of the bolt lugs? If that is what you were asking about before the option of the filleted under cuts came to light, I would be pleased to share two ideas. I see that you are up tp speed on "IMPORT-A-SKETCH". This is the type of thing that I am I in need of. Maybe we can help get your rifle started.
As a personal opinion, the book by Bill Holmes, is a very good general reference, to build a rifle from, rather than with. After a lifetime in a shop, working with drawings, and sketches, there are dimentions missing, but the concept is put forth quite well. After this book has been in your Throne Room
for a couple weeks, you are either ready to try, or ready to buy.