View Full Version : Miller generweld 130 problem
dhammer
06-23-2009, 05:38 AM
Hello,
I'm looking at a Miller Generweld 130 portable welder. The seller wants $100.00, 8 hp gas engine works but no output from the welder.
Anyone have any ideas on troubleshooting this welder? The brushes look OK..that is about all I know to check.
Thanks,
Steve
macona
06-23-2009, 02:32 PM
The generator probably needs to be flashed. It has lost its residual magnetism. Download the manual from millers site and there may be info on how to do this. Of no, no big deal, it can be done with a battery charger.
jeremy13
06-23-2009, 05:05 PM
Ok most of the welders get there current to charge the rotor from the starting battery. If you jumpstarted it an the battery is week or not connected you will not get output current. If that is good check for a small fuse blown.
dhammer
06-23-2009, 09:30 PM
Thanks Jeremy and Macona..I'll look into your suggestions.
I did download the owner's manual from Miller's website..theyhave a troubleshooting section. As usual the troubleshooting section gave very little info..basically it said "take it to your authorized Miller repair facility"
Macona..would you care to elaborate on this flashing with a battery charger?
Jeremy..a third party is involved so don't actually have the welder in my grubby paws but when I do I'll check into the battery situation.
Steve
macona
06-27-2009, 02:44 AM
These older machine used residual magnetism in the generator to get things going. A current is induced in a special field winding where it is rectified and filtered and fed into the slip rings of the rotor. If they set too long there is no residual magnetism to induce any current in the excitation windings.
Just looked at the schematic. There is a capacitor, C1. Tough these terminals with a battery charger with the engine running. Positive to lead 10 and negative to lead 8. It just takes a second. You should hear the engine load up a little. Check the 120v out with a meter.
dhammer
06-27-2009, 07:11 AM
These older machine used residual magnetism in the generator to get things going. A current is induced in a special field winding where it is rectified and filtered and fed into the slip rings of the rotor. If they set too long there is no residual magnetism to induce any current in the excitation windings.
Just looked at the schematic. There is a capacitor, C1. Tough these terminals with a battery charger with the engine running. Positive to lead 10 and negative to lead 8. It just takes a second. You should hear the engine load up a little. Check the 120v out with a meter.
Thanks Macona, I'll try it.
Steve
knied1
08-20-2012, 08:36 PM
I know im jumping onto an old thread, but my welder stoped working between welds, the generator did not shut off, but could this be the problem? yes i did check the circut breaker, and it is fine, with the generator off i hooked up my tester, and then poped the breaker, and the circut was broken, then i re-set it and the circut re-connected.
I took the cover off, and am not sure what connections are 8 and 10, any help would be great.
Thanks
macona
08-21-2012, 12:33 AM
So you still have AC power?
knied1
08-21-2012, 06:15 AM
I do not have power at either the welding leads or the 110V outlets.
I woundering if its the condenser, but just want to check other things before buying parts
knied1
08-21-2012, 07:20 AM
One other thing,
Grainger has a "Motor Run Capacitor"
specs and description are:
15MF, 370V, 60/50Hz
Aluminum, hermetically sealed capacitors improve the electrical performance of motors, air conditioners, and refrigeration equipment. PCB-free, the capacitors feature an aluminum case with steel cover and 1/4" male quick-connect terminals with plastic insulators. Protected to 10,000 AFC.
RoHS compliant. UL and C-UL Recognized.
Sounds like this will work, but is there something im missing?
It is only $10.06, but i can get it thu work for less. I guess its cheep enough to try, and if it dont work then not much lost.
Any help would be great, im in the middle of a project and now i cant finish it.
Thanks again.
macona
08-21-2012, 02:31 PM
Could be the cap, but I kind of doubt it. Better chance it being one of the two diodes.
knied1
08-21-2012, 03:18 PM
Thanks,
Is there a way to check them?
macona
08-21-2012, 07:37 PM
Diode test mode on a DMM. You will need to disconnect one wire.
knied1
08-24-2012, 05:48 PM
I got the diodes today, and soldered them in..... BACK IN BUSINESS.......... thanks macona