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View Full Version : New to a horizontal mill, advice sought...



Davek0974
07-24-2009, 03:00 PM
Hi all, when i've finished de-gunging my mill, i intend to cut some gears on it. Its an Adcock & Shipley 2E horizontal.

I'm not new to engineering, i've got a bridgeport and two lathes but i've never used a horizontal mill before and i have a feeling they are slightly different. It came with a pallet full of boxes of cutters, many of them new and include straight, side / face, slab and profile ones.

A few questions...
Are there any online references for running a horizontal mill?
Do you have any words of wisdom?
What else can i do with a horizontal?

Thanks in advance
Dave

TGTool
07-24-2009, 03:28 PM
There's a book widely available as a reprint titled "A Treatise on Milling and Milling Machines (1916) by the Cincinnati Milling Machine Company that's good on general principles. It include setup and things for gear cutting, cam making etc.

I worked at a place that had a DeVlieg horizontal that was used a great deal for machining hydraulic manifolds. These were often large (12" on a side) ductile iron blocks with lots of tapped holes, oil passages and cartridge valve cavities. The guy who ran it liked that setup since chips were easier to extract in the horiontal operations.

Most of my experience with a horizontal has been operations like slab milling intended to reap off a lot of material in one cycle, but I've seen some rather more interesting jobs illustrated.

aboard_epsilon
07-24-2009, 03:52 PM
not got mine finished yet ......

cutters are big .so slow speed

and I'm told essential to have coolant on it .

all the best.markj

Davek0974
07-24-2009, 03:59 PM
not got mine finished yet ......

cutters are big .so slow speed

and I'm told essential to have coolant on it .

all the best.markj

Yes, the gearbox does go to some low speeds, and the state its in would indicate coolant was well used. I guess the low speeds mean coolant is needed for chip clearance.

Dave

moldmonkey
07-24-2009, 05:07 PM
Disclaimer: I've run a HMC but never a manual horizontal. I am in the process of converting a Burke hand/production mill to leadscrews. I just waiting to save the parts money. I am getting anxious to get it done and making chips.

Advantages would be chips falling free, ability to work on the ends/sides of large/long parts, ganging up cutters on the arbor allows multiple features to be cut at once, typically lots of rigidity & horsepower, lots of form cutters available. Lots of possibilities.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1111025&posted=1

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=173082

Mcgyver
07-24-2009, 05:41 PM
I am soooo jealous of the skid of cutters :). still searching myself...thinking of trading cutter grinding for cutters

Flip through the chapter in Moltrect or any high school text for basics, but its not that different. cutters tend to be bigger but the formulas don't change. Support things well and think about which direction the forces are applied to and how to orient the vise. for example in the below pic, I'm making a 3/4" wide slot 5/8 deep in a pass - If i had the vise the other way the work would lift at the start of cut because of the upwards force. flood coolant is imo a must. The project is more QCTP holders, made this slot in 20 pieces, that's where the chip pile came from, tool makers clamp is homemade (of course!) and is used as a vise stop

A special relationship is developing with Elliot, which i maintain can also be a girls name....for any kind of serious metal removal, a cutter unsupported one end just doesn't seem to 'cut' it anymore

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/milling.jpg

tattoomike68
07-24-2009, 05:57 PM
I like to key large and long shafts with a horz. mill. 20 footer is no problem and you can charge 15+ minutes a foot. we also made splines, gears, worm gears and bag sealing dies with it.

It has power feed and rapid traverse on all 3 axises. it sure is sweet to run.

Davek0974
07-25-2009, 03:28 AM
Thanks so far, i cant wait to get it running now.


DAve

Mark McGrath
07-26-2009, 06:22 AM
Dave,when running your horizontal cutters stick to about 50-70 fpm and a minimum of 0.002 per tooth per rev feed. i.e. 20 tooth cutter 0.002" x 20 = 0.040" per rev.This is a good starting point for HSS cutters.Obviously a bit less for fragile slitting saws etc.Coolant is essential.
A Treatise on Milling can be downloaded from here.It`s a big file.Used to be two versions,Brown & Sharpe and Cincinnati.
http://ia331437.us.archive.org/1/items/treatiseonmillin00cincrich/
Mark.

John Stevenson
07-26-2009, 06:38 AM
Dave,
As other have said but mount the cutter so the nut self tightens, I know you have a key fitted but trust me they can come loose running the wrong way.
It's also possible to get arbors with LH threads

NEVER EVER climb mill with one.

.

Mark McGrath
07-26-2009, 09:20 AM
Dave,


NEVER EVER climb mill with one.

.

John,do you mean with a left hand threaded arbor or with a horizontal mill?

Davek0974
07-26-2009, 11:52 AM
I can't see why climb milling should be out of the question, this thing has a backlash eliminator knob specifically marked "Tighten when climb milling".

Can the nut on the end of a 20" keyed arbor really come loose from driving torque?

This stuff's all new to me:D

Dave

Davek0974
07-27-2009, 03:14 AM
On the mill, there is a large gearbox for the table feed, the manual shows a filler plug for the oil but its not on the machine?

The oil pump and sight glass are there but i cant find the filler.

It has not been painted over as the paint is original, anyone got any ideas? Or does anyone else have an Adcock & Shipley 2E horizontal?

Many thanks

Dave