View Full Version : homemade hole saw tubing notcher
4x4machinist
08-17-2009, 01:47 PM
Here is some pictures of my latest project.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn235/sjones2165/tubingnotcher3.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn235/sjones2165/tubingnotcher1.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn235/sjones2165/tubingnotcher.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn235/sjones2165/tubungnotcher2.jpg
torker
08-17-2009, 01:55 PM
Brilliant! MUCH better than the copy of a typical clamp on the tubing type that I made!
Yours is actually a complete cutting machine in itself!
Russ
Black_Moons
08-17-2009, 04:41 PM
Wow nice.. Not dissing your pipe notcher or anything, but could I get another picture or two of the vise? that thing looks awsome in an of itself. I especialy like the 30 degree V insted of 45. (But thats probley because the last V block set I made was 30 degrees and not 45, hehe)
Lew Hartswick
08-17-2009, 05:04 PM
Not to "pick nits" but I'd call those 120 as to opposed to 90 deg. :-)
...lew...
BadDog
08-17-2009, 06:36 PM
Further derailing, but on the point of the v-blocks for vise or otherwise, I almost always prefer a 120* (or more) angle on work holding v-blocks. I even made a set specifically to use in my mill vise. Funny how you almost never see obtuse v-blocks like that...
On the OP, very nice notcher. Beautiful work!
But to tell the truth, I haven't used mine in years, and as a result, I'm really glad I never put that much effort into it. If you are doing photo-perfect (near) filler-less GTAW/TIG joints, then hole saw is pretty much a must have. But for GMAW/MIG, I prefer the far faster/easier chop saw method. With the proper math and associated "tricks" (aka fudge factors) you can get remarkable results far faster and without the dedicated tools. Between my buggy, cages, bumpers, cross members, carts, and many other projects; I've run at least 350-400' of 1.75" tube and another couple hundred of 1" with maybe 75' or so 1.50" tube through my bender and with many fish-mouth joints (including nodes with as many as 6 spans joined) and have not used the tube notcher since the very beginning...
gambler
08-17-2009, 10:20 PM
nice. can I hang out at your garage?:)
Black_Moons
08-17-2009, 11:36 PM
opps yea 120 degrees insted of 30... I used my 30 degree angle block to set it up in the mill so I think 30 degrees when I talk about it.
I bought some cheap import notcher.. its ok, the bushing for the shaft sure could be redone. 'needle' bearings my #!@. unless you count the shaft itself as a needle. bushing isent even that well fiting.. enough as a guide but it sure isent precision.
At least, I assume it is, I still havent gotten around to even trying it out... :P One day i'll build that gocart... or something :)
But yea. Notchers are great for the tig, or soldering/brazeing. Once I saw a giant water manifold just fishmouth notched and brazed/solded togethor (small pipes fishmouthed and brazed on to a bigger one at 90 degrees)
Mig.. its not as great as you usally actualy WANT a gap.. though in that case a good fishmouth is nice as once you setup the gap it won't be an inconsistant gap, just a little harder to setup.
PTSideshow
08-18-2009, 05:20 AM
Further derailing, but on the point of the v-blocks for vise or otherwise, I almost always prefer a 120* (or more) angle on work holding v-blocks. I even made a set specifically to use in my mill vise. Funny how you almost never see obtuse v-blocks like that...
On the OP, very nice notcher. Beautiful work!
But to tell the truth, I haven't used mine in years, and as a result, I'm really glad I never put that much effort into it. If you are doing photo-perfect (near) filler-less GTAW/TIG joints, then hole saw is pretty much a must have. But for GMAW/MIG, I prefer the far faster/easier chop saw method. With the proper math and associated "tricks" (aka fudge factors) you can get remarkable results far faster and without the dedicated tools. Between my buggy, cages, bumpers, cross members, carts, and many other projects; I've run at least 350-400' of 1.75" tube and another couple hundred of 1" with maybe 75' or so 1.50" tube through my bender and with many fish-mouth joints (including nodes with as many as 6 spans joined) and have not used the tube notcher since the very beginning...
a very nicely done notcher!
As BD said for the times that you don't want to set up that notcher.
Here ya go.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800 Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures)
snowman
08-18-2009, 07:22 PM
You can also do the same thing in the lathe. You mount the pipe in a custom vise mounted on the cross slide, then use the carriage to advance the pipe into a holesaw either held by the chuck, or mounted to an arbor that is held by the chuck. The other advantage, is that with the properly designed arbor, you can use the tailstock for outboard support in some cases, maximizing rigidity.