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darryl
08-27-2009, 12:20 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/heinrich/close-upofleadscrew.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/heinrich/th_degreesdetail.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/heinrich/degreesdetail.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/heinrich/vise1.jpg

Here's a few pix of the vise I picked up the other day. No explanations needed. I'll be cleaning it up more before I use it. As I said before, it's very tight and the action is super smooth. Since there's no indications on it anywhere as to who manufactured it, I'm assuming it's home made. The only things that might suggest that otherwise is the angled mark under the degrees layout, and the punching of the numbers.

uncle pete
08-27-2009, 03:10 AM
Darryl,
Great score, Without the bottom piece the vice reminds me of a Wilton but I'm not 100% sure. If it's commercialy made, Then some one here will know for sure who built it. If it was made by the original owner then he did a really good job.

Pete

Evan
08-27-2009, 07:30 AM
That is a really nice find. It looks very well shop made to me. The body appears to have been hand milled by the marks present rather than ground.

JCHannum
08-27-2009, 08:39 AM
It could be shop made or modified. There are many patterns for shop made vises that were made in school shops, and many toolmakers made their own vises from offcuts. I rin across many diffeent, very well made shop fabricated vises.

The number stamping on the graduations also look hand applied. No shame though, many of these tools are better quality than storebought.

darryl
08-27-2009, 07:22 PM
The body is milled, and not ground. This probably was some toolmakers school project, or simply shop made. I still can't get over how well fitted it all is. I've cleaned it up some more and freshly lubed it, and now I can feel a bit of play in the leadscrew boss, but still very little. I wonder if maybe the original owner used a high quality lube on it, maybe a silicone oil or something. It doesn't smell like it's petroleum based. I could get some from the model industry, where it's used in various viscosities for miniature shocks, diff lube, etc.

Because it has the degree markings, I'm going to key the base to one of the mill table slots, then recalibrate the 0 degree point. For this I'll clamp a straight edge into it, then adjust using a dial indicator until it's exactly at 90 to the travel of the mill table. After this, I should be able to set it up without instruments to be either at 0 or 90 (or anywhere between of course). That's something that's a little more cumbersome with my existing vises.

I'll attach the keys solidly to the base, then I can clamp it to the mill table with the regular hardware I use all the time. I'll make a plywood base to set this in, with slots for the keys to drop into, for when I use it off the mill. That will be a good way to keep it solid as a loose benchtop vise, and protect the base as well.

Evan
08-27-2009, 08:22 PM
Never use any sort of silicone oil, gel or lube or product containing same within 1000 yards of anything you ever want to paint. Not a good plan in the shop. It migrates worse than spotting blue except you can't see it.

gwilson
08-27-2009, 08:31 PM
Must have some age to it,or else,like me,the maker had some decent looking number stamps on hand. You cannot buy new stamps with any serifs on them anymore. Is that base made out of a faceplate? Could it be made from a blank casting for a faceplate?

Doozer
08-27-2009, 08:44 PM
Silicone is a very BAD metal lubricant. It causes galling. It might be slippery but it does not lubricate when pressure is applied between two moving surfaces. Silicone oil is used in shock absorbers because its viscosity is thermally stable. but shocks in for rebuild were always galled to he11.
--Doozer

darryl
08-27-2009, 09:54 PM
Of course, I should have remembered that about silicone. I just read about it again last night. Duh. Tri-flo is what I put on there, and I'll stay with that.

The base has a precise 1 inch hole in the bottom where the upper part pivots in. On very close inspection, I see a change in the metal around that hole. Opening it up, I see that there's an insert pressed into a larger hole, so the base piece itself has a hole that's 1 1/4 inch diameter. Whether that's large enough that there could have been threads in it at one time- maybe, but not now. The insert is meant to work with an undercut inside the base that contains the nuts, so that's how you can loosen the socket head bolts and be able to rotate the vise full circle.

This is an assembly, of course. Everywhere a bolt holds parts together, the threaded hole is blind. There are two spring pins pressed in where the insert fits the base, along with four flush socket head bolts, and the same where the vise body bolts to the mating piece to fit the base. For each replacable jaw, socket head bolts go into blind holes. The jaw faces have no holes through them. The machining on all the pieces is top notch.

If this is the standard I should be working to, I have a ways to go.

Now I feel like I have some connection to the maker of this vise. I'll bet he (or she) was devastated when the 1/4 inch endmill put that one mark on the body between the jaws.

Now I'm thinking- I got this vise from an old lady at a yard sale. Last year there was an older fellow there too, but she was alone this time. Maybe he passed on, and she's slowly cleaning up. I think I'll go back there and talk to her. Could be more tooling around, could be she would be happy to talk to someone who shares her husbands interests-

Evan
08-27-2009, 10:15 PM
When I worked for Xerox we did a trial on Tri Flo for a couple of years. It was a disaster but that didn't show up for quite a while. It contains PTFE particles that are supposed to hang around when the oil has migrated/evaporated and they do, along with whatever small amount of oil is left mixed with ordinary dust and dirt plus in our application paper dust with clay sizing and thermoplastic toner. The result is a bearing that runs smooth and quiet for a quite a while and then gradually seizes solid. That is especially true on sintered bronze bearings plus the PTFE smears out and plugs the pores in the bearing so it must be replaced.

At first it seemed like the magic bullet but by the second year it was just a bullet in the foot.