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Falcon67
10-19-2009, 04:23 PM
I finally got my G0519 up off the floor and running this weekend. $50 worth of steel tubing got the project "off the ground". That's 24' of 14 gauge 2" tube, 24' of 14 gauge 1" and 12' of 11 gauge 2" tube. The main rails are 11 gauge and the rest 14 gauge steel tube. The 1" is just because - it's handy for lots of thing like shelf brackets, bracing and what not.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_metal.jpg

I got the saw lined up for some 45 degree cuts, but they still came out more like a metric 45 degrees. Hey, beats the carp out of a hacksaw and is cleaner than the 14" chop saw. Next project is a good stand for this saw. It's too close to the ground - pass the Doan's Pills please.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_saw.jpg

Did the top first, that way I could just locate the risers off it with it squared up.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_top.jpg

Cheap feets - have maybe $3 wrapped up in each one counting the 5/8-11 all thread. The nut and washer combo was a killer .50$ They do walk when leveling but are good 'nuff for now and will engineer something else later. Had I the time for going "uber-machine-geek" I would have turned up a centering mandrel for centering the washers on the nuts. The calibrated eyeball got 2 good, 2 so-so.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_stand_feet.jpg

Falcon67
10-19-2009, 04:24 PM
Cut off some long nuts and centered those in the lower rails. Plenty of bearing surface.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_stand_feet2.jpg

Welded up the base and used the feet to get it level so I had a decent reference to get the top as close to level as I could.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_stand_base.jpg

1" tube scaffolding - told ya it was handy.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_stand_build.jpg

Ready for a good coat of Krylon 1613 semi-flat.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_raw_stand.jpg

Falcon67
10-19-2009, 04:24 PM
Time to get some air under the mill. I started with the engine hoist, but the pallet blocked the feet so I couldn't get in close. The chain fall is my forever backup, so a couple of floor jacks took some weight off the pallet and I slid it over to the chain fall.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_lift.jpg

Gutted the control box and used as much original stuff as possible. The motor wiring is the supplied power cord and the control wires are a spare Cat 5e cable. The e-stop button was an NC switch, so I found a NO copy on eBay for $10 and it's on the way. The other buttons are NO, so they were used for jog (useless pretty much) and e-stop. The "DRILLING - OFF - TAPPING" switch is now "FWD - OFF - REV". Most of the programming in the JNEV-202-H2 is as is, I did shorten stop to 2 seconds for now, bumped upper Hz limit to 100 and flat forgot to set the motor parameters. But it's a 2 HP box, so the 1HP motor is not straining it by any means. I do need to go limit the current though, to protect the motor.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_wiring.jpg

The START/STOP is a $13 Grizzly item and the fine 12 gauge yellow cord is from a very nice extension cord that got crossways with the hedge clippers. ( D'oh! ) I used aluminum flex cable shield for the lines and tacked in a piece of 1 1/4" to keep power and control separate and maybe a bit shielded. FWIW- the controls work every time and the radio on the shelf picked up no interference on local FM. You can see the proximity of the radio in the last pic. And it's a cheap-azz garage sale radio too. Plays casset tapes - remember those?
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_VFD.jpg


Let build something together. The main rails are 32" to give it a nice big square for leveling and support. The riser is 18" wide. The overall steel frame is 22" tall and there is 4" in the casters (steel/300 lb/ TSC - $10 ea). All together, that places the mill table at 36" from the floor. Plenty good for my 6' frame. I have to look up to get at the drawbar at full height, but that's fine for me. It'll gain some drawers a little later - there is a plan for three 6" drawers in the base. After the drawers are done I will put some 3/4 plywood on the sides for chip control and hanging things like the work holding set. I had a piece of galvanized for the top and forgot all about it. I'll slip some masonite under the base to keep chips out of the drawers. Or, I might still go get a full size bread pan for chip control. A full size bun sheet should be 26 x 18 - perfect size, with lips included. It takes no time or effort to get the head up and down - clamp a 3/8 to 1/2 drive socket adapter in the chuck of my 19.2V drill and whirRRRR up she goes.
http://raceabilene.com/machine/G0519/images/G0519_running.jpg

Observations:
The leveling works, after some patience I got the table about .001 over a foot in any direction using a .0005 /10" precision level. Then layed the Craftsman digital level on it - and it read .02 degree. OK, that makes me wonder what's off. I'll have to check it on the surface plate (another adjustable stand that needs building LOL).

Changed the oil first to 30w non detergent, ran the break in (10 minutes per speed, fwd and rev), then changed to some 20w non detergent I found at Tractor Supply ($20 for 2 gallons). After 1 1/2 hours of run time, the box was about 100F measured from under the gearbox and the motor was 105F as measured on the casing. Could put your hand on it with no worries. I unscrewed the drain plug first time - and got nothing. There was a skin of something over the hole, had to push a screwdriver up through to get things draining. Probably the sealing goop they put on the plug, there was a lot of it and it was pretty crusty.

The gear box is not silent, but it's not very loud - about like the drill press and lathe is the impression. Runs smooth. I did not measure current draw, need to do that soon just to get a reading. The power cord supplied was maybe a metric 14 gauge and I used it because it had the right number of wires and I could not find 12-3 w/G as a cord in the box store. The 5 second wind up to speed probably helps current draw a lot. I set braking for 2 seconds and will try shorter intervals to see if there is a trip limit.

The "jog" command requires a "run" signal, so it's kinda useless as is unless you hold jog and hit run. What I may do is label one of the green buttons as JOG and the other HOLD FOR JOG or just set one button for a slow preset speed. You could wire these up 2 or 3 ways with the VFD. In any scenario, seems one of the poor little buttons will be left out. Excuse me - spare.

I ran it up to 100 hz in high gear and down to around 30 hz in low. It really cranks at 100Hz. I have a non-contact tach and I'll post an update on that. The motor did make some high pitched noise when winding down from 60Hz to 30 but seemed to settle down at 30. I was surprised my tinnitus addled rock-n-roll ears could pick it up. Too much Bohemian Rapsody, eh say what?

Initial readings seem to show the table dials off .004 / 1" in X and about .002 / 1" in Y and about .008 backlash on both. I did not verify the dial indicator, so I could be off on that - it was late. Z was all over, but the dial wants to slip and I will take that stuff apart and get a look at the pieces. I have a 6" scale just waiting for a fabricated Z mount, so that'll fix that. That is all "out of the crate", nothing done but putting some good grease on the leadscrews and cleaning/oiling the ways. What? DRO? I hear that too.

Next - make some chips, punch some holes, make a mess. Save up for the DRO and table drive.

camdigger
10-19-2009, 04:27 PM
Now, if'n you had some friends up Nawth, they could send you a set of hard rubber vibration isolation discs (AKA hockey pucks) for under the feet....:D

Falcon67
10-19-2009, 04:44 PM
Now, if'n you had some friends up Nawth, they could send you a set of hard rubber vibration isolation discs (AKA hockey pucks) for under the feet....:D
Yep - the only hockey we have 'round hee-yaw is horse hockey. :D