View Full Version : Lathe Setup help: Parts source and Switch Help

11-04-2009, 06:41 PM

I am setting up a LeBlond lathe, and I need to find a couple taper pins for a couple levers. Any ideas where I can source these?

Also, I switched the motor from a 3-phase to a single phase, and I want to wire the drum switch so it will reverse the single phase motor. I can't find a model on the drum switch anywhere or a schematic for any Cutler Hammer that. Any help on this would be stellar!

Thanks guys!


11-04-2009, 07:13 PM
Make the pins! Otherwise, checkout a supplier like McMaster-Carr. They carry taper pins and I would guess that LeBlond used a standard taper pin. ATW used standard taper pins on their levers, collars, etc.


Can't help with the drum switch. I figure out electrical issues using educated guesses and magic smoke released from earlier attempts ... ;)

11-04-2009, 07:43 PM
Ace Hardware carries taper pins in my area. YMMV

11-05-2009, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the ACE tip, I picked up everything I needed for less than shipping online!!

Thanks again, perhaps I'll post up something on the drum switch later if I can find more information.


11-12-2009, 01:44 AM
You may find that reversing a single phase motor's a lot harder than a
3- phase. For a 3- phase, you simply swap 2 legs, so the drum switch is
just a DPDT (double- pole double- throw) switch, and if it's like mine,
it has a neutral 'off'.

Reversing a single phase motor depends entirely on the type of motor
and whether it's made to reverse. Some are set up to, and others physically cannot. And it's down to the manufacturer to show you how...

(short version, no answer here...)


11-12-2009, 07:35 PM
Regarding the wiring: Someone long ago had converted mine from 3ph to 1ph, and though it has a drum switch, both positions just go forward, ...UNTIL a second switch underneath the chip pan is switched to convert it to reverse. Then both go reverse.

When I got the lathe I set out to rewire it so the drum switch activated either FWD or REV, as desired. The problem I ran into was that there just wasn't enough space inside the switch to contain the wire connections I'd need to make. So, lazy fellow that I am, I just left it alone.
Later I was glad I did, because occasionally I would find myself inadvertently bumping the drum switch arm. I've since put a shorter wooden knob on it so I don't bump it, but I'm still happy with the way it's wired, since I seldom (read "almost never") need reverse anyway (threaded spindle nose).