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View Full Version : Bandsaw gearbox.



Black_Moons
11-10-2009, 07:18 PM
Hi, I recently bought a new bandsaw, iv been heavily warned against plastic gearboxs and the salesman assured me it did'nt have one, but it does have a grease filled gearbox. (he did know to look for a breather to see if it was oil or grease, I did'nt know. A+ for him)

http://www.kmstools.com/king-canada-5-x-6-dual-swivel-metal-bandsaw-387
to be exact.

I thought about bigger but the swivel head just called out to me, And the hydrolic downfeed is a rare treat for the smaller footprint (small shop!)

Anyway, my main question is, Should I worry about the grease? Replace it with something or leave the stock stuff in? I allways change the oil in a new machine to my own stuff as it allways seems to come stock with lots of filth.

He also said I could likey drill a breather/etc and change it over to oil, Is that likey true? Would oil be any better if I don't mind it leaking a little? Iv heard the worm gear tends to chew a path through the grease and then the gears wear, but maybe that was only for plastic gears..


(Awww nuts I just realised I forgot to buy a bimetal blade for it, Will do that ASAP)

wierdscience
11-10-2009, 07:43 PM
I would clean it out,that Yak blood they call grease isn't very good.

The breather should be easy to add,drill and tap for 1/8"NPT somewhere that stays vertical and near the top as the saw swings though it's arc.A hose barb,clamp and sort piece of hose.Screw the barb into the tapped hole,slip the hose on with a clamp and run the hose up the side of the machine about 4-6".A weedeater intank fuel filter makes a good breather screen for the end.

Full synthetic gear oil would be my choice.If you have a bronze worm gear avoid chlorinated gear oil.

BadDog
11-10-2009, 08:07 PM
I've been running heavy gear oil in mine for years. As for what comes in there, it seemed more like cheap molasses to me, very difficult to get cleaned out...

Bill Pace
11-10-2009, 09:26 PM
I've got the same saw - in a different color - and it came with gear oil in it..... After I had ran it a while I opened it up and it had turned to "brass oil"- a rather pretty golden color of oil! I had read of this in another forum - the reason I checked it. I drained/cleaned it out - quite a pain, and replaced it with 90w gear oil. I have since re-checked it and there was only a slight showing of brass contamination.

There has been much back & forth about not using this or that oil and you must use this or that oil, but from what I have read over several years, the use of 90 hypoid gear oil is the most often used, and no one has been able to deternime it had any adverse effects one way or another. In my case I had a little 4x6 that I ran 90w in for some 22-24 years and it was still a very smooth running saw when I sold it to get the swivel. --- YMMD!

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/pace1980/Homier%20saw/IMG_0683.jpg

torker
11-10-2009, 11:14 PM
Black moons...GULP...did you really pay that much for that saw?
I've always wanted one of those if my Busy Bee swivel head saw ever dies...but I don't think it's worth $500 more than my saw....
I know the local King dealer here has factory induced sales on King machines every now and then...but he won't carry any stock so it's hard to decide if you can't look at the machines.
Russ

tattoomike68
11-10-2009, 11:55 PM
Hi, I recently bought a new bandsaw, iv been heavily warned against plastic gearboxs and the salesman assured me it did'nt have one, but it does have a grease filled gearbox. (he did know to look for a breather to see if it was oil or grease, I did'nt know. A+ for him)

http://www.kmstools.com/king-canada-5-x-6-dual-swivel-metal-bandsaw-387
to be exact.

I thought about bigger but the swivel head just called out to me, And the hydrolic downfeed is a rare treat for the smaller footprint (small shop!)

Anyway, my main question is, Should I worry about the grease? Replace it with something or leave the stock stuff in? I allways change the oil in a new machine to my own stuff as it allways seems to come stock with lots of filth.

He also said I could likey drill a breather/etc and change it over to oil, Is that likey true? Would oil be any better if I don't mind it leaking a little? Iv heard the worm gear tends to chew a path through the grease and then the gears wear, but maybe that was only for plastic gears..


(Awww nuts I just realised I forgot to buy a bimetal blade for it, Will do that ASAP)


I say run the piss out of it, but,,, if its on fire turn it off as soon as the cut is done. :)

Willy
11-11-2009, 12:14 AM
The 4x6 saw I have came with some kind of oil, (and I use the term loosely) in it, and no breather.
Changed the oil to semi-synthetic 75w90 and after five years became concerned about the EP additives attacking the brass ( hey it's hard to light a fire under my keester:D ). It had not.
For the last five years I've run a medium weight straight hydraulic oil in it and it still looks like new.
I have used it for close to ten years now and not even a damp spot at the seal. Sometimes I start it at well below freezing temperatures and have it nice and warm to the hands in half an hour. I wouldn't be too concerned about installing a breather just yet.

Black_Moons
11-11-2009, 02:11 AM
ah, so open it up and just add oil, k. Whats the common name for that hypoid gear oil?

hardtail
11-11-2009, 10:19 AM
I believe it's just EP 80-90W.........I may have found an outlet that flogs King and other stuff on the cheap.......think it was from down east though so shipping might erase some bargains.......frown if I find the link I could forward it?

Found the link but looks like they've cheapened up their product line.......frown, so I won't bother to post it.

Black_Moons
11-11-2009, 03:42 PM
Im still kinda wondering here what I ask for to buy 'EP 80-90' or gear oil..
Anyone know exactly what name its sold under in princess auto, KBCtools/KMS tools, Canadian tire, lordco or any other common store in BC?

hardtail
11-11-2009, 03:46 PM
Just ask for gear oil, or look for it in the special oils section where it's sold in litres and you'll see 80/90.

Bill Pace
11-11-2009, 04:18 PM
Yes, just ask for 90wt gear oil, -- if someone is working there and cant respond to that alone .... well, he prolly oughta get another job! Seriously, thats a widely known/used oil and should be available at many places, -- truck stops, service stations, farm supply, along with parts houses. Another common wt in that type gear oil is generically called "140wt" - obviously a heavier oil.

Black_Moons
11-11-2009, 10:21 PM
Ok I got some full synthetic 75W90 gear oil.. filled it up with that.. apparently my gearbox WAS oil filled without a breather.. found that one out the messy way.

this motormaster oil doesnt mention if its clorinated or not though, and the spur gear in my bandsaw does seem to be bronze.
Would the oils advertise clorination or lack of?

Willy
11-12-2009, 12:13 AM
Would the oils advertise clorination or lack of?

In a word...no.

It would serve no purpose to display tribology specific information on a product that is aimed at the market that the Canadian Tire chain directs it's products. Worse yet for those that want more info, is that unlike major oil product manufacturers, there is no easy means to find out what specific performance requirements and specifications a lubricant meets. They just use an API donut with a broad spec coverage rating.
Lets face it most people that buy re branded or big box oils don't really know or care about the difference.

But getting back to the heart of the matter, the reason that no one that I know of, or read about, has encountered corrosion problems associated with ep additives attacking brass or bronze gearing in these saws is that they are not capable of producing the extreme pressures and localized heating that is a requirement of ep additive corrosion of yellow metals. Most people just assume when they hear about "ep additive corrosion" is that they are dipping their valuable parts in an acid bath. It's not quite that simple.

Modern oil chemistry is an ever changing science. Additives like sulfur, phosphorus, and chlorine are being replaced in many applications, but don't count on it without a score card. That's the problem with oil...it all looks the same and it always fits...it's just not necessarily always the right application though.

To sum it up, if it were me I would not worry about it.