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View Full Version : compressor problem and update...Before and after pics..



cuemaker
11-24-2009, 09:50 PM
Ok, got the compressor running, but I have a problem.. ran just fine, got up to 30psi... then at 30psi the compressor kinda kicked off..motor was running, compressor was running, but no ump ump ump sound... it would ump ump a time or 2, then kinda free wheel... I let out the pressure and then it started ump umping again, upto 30psi....

Did I plumb it wrong? Otherwise she is nice and quiet.....

And now some pics... Before...

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/xringx/aircompressor001.jpg

And After.......

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/xringx/DSCF1409.jpg

Arcane
11-24-2009, 10:56 PM
Yes, looks like you did plumb it wrong. Just for neatness sake I would move the pressure switch, etc over to the right hand side of the tank. This would allow you to shorten the run of wire from the PS to the motor, same as for the copper tube from PS to check valve. The small line from the top of the one head to the PS should not be there. Plump a line from the one way check valve (has a pipe plug in it now) to the PS unloader port, which is where you have a line from going to the top of the head.

cuemaker
11-24-2009, 11:02 PM
hmm, your advice conflicts with prior advice....so, plug the top of the cylinder heads.. run the unloader line to the port on the check valve...

Guido
11-24-2009, 11:08 PM
Ump ump ump equals actual air compression, while free wheeling means no compression is taking place due to unloader valves just doing their thang.

Unloader system needs more adjustment so's that cylinders continue to pressuize the receiver, until your desired max operating pressure is reached. Apparently 30 psi was preset at the factory. Easier on the nerves to start a 'new' system at a relatively low pressure and work upwards on adjustments.Read the adjustment directions which came with the controller.

G

chipmaker4130
11-24-2009, 11:23 PM
With a two-stage pump, don't you normally feed the secondary with the output from the primary? If the fittings on the top of the cylinder heads are outlets then the top of the small cylinder should be the one going into the tank, eh?

This is a question, not a statement!

cuemaker
11-24-2009, 11:23 PM
Ump ump ump equals actual air compression, while free wheeling means no compression is taking place due to unloader valves just doing their thang.

Unloader system needs more adjustment so's that cylinders continue to pressuize the receiver, until your desired max operating pressure is reached. Apparently 30 psi was preset at the factory. Easier on the nerves to start a 'new' system at a relatively low pressure and work upwards on adjustments.Read the adjustment directions which came with the controller.

G

Guido... I dont think its the unloaders cause there is no hiss of air... And its not the pressure switch cause the pressure switch would cut off the current to the motor.....

Arcane
11-24-2009, 11:24 PM
hmm, your advice conflicts with prior advice....so, plug the top of the cylinder heads.. run the unloader line to the port on the check valve...
Part of that particular pressure switch is designed to release the compressed air in the large tube between the second stage head and the one way check valve. There's a little lever that moves in conjunction with the movement of the contacts and it should just barely push in (and hence open) what looks like a core from a Schrader valve when the contacts are in the open position.

cuemaker
11-24-2009, 11:25 PM
With a two-stage pump, don't you normally feed the secondary with the output from the primary? If the fittings on the top of the cylinder heads are outlets then the top of the small cylinder should be the one going into the tank, eh?

This is a question, not a statement!

Chip, it was my understanding that the stuff on top of the heads were for the unloader valve...

The air moving from the big cylinder to the small happens on the backside, near the fly wheel... its the finned tube you see..

wierdscience
11-24-2009, 11:31 PM
This is odd,the unloader on the PS won't work unless the cutoff pressure has been reached.That unloader port is blocked so long as the cuttout pressure hasn't been reached.

You can try capping those unloder ports in the heads and trying it again,don't think it will matter though.


What is the pressure rating on the PS?

Arcane
11-24-2009, 11:36 PM
I believe the original unloader valve was designed for a constant running compressor (engine driven usually) and would "unload" the compressor right at the heads so no compression takes place, the type of "unloader valve" you have as part of your PS is designed to, after it has disconnected the compressor motor(electric only), drain all air between the second stage head and the oneway check valve so when the motor starts again, it isn't spinning the compressor against already compressed air. Much easier on the windings!

cuemaker
11-24-2009, 11:41 PM
125 is the upper.. its a square D... I really dont think its the PS..cause I was watching it and nothing happened with the unloader part,, I would have heard it also...

It build pressure prior to me getting her all fixed up, so i fixed something wrong...

chipmaker4130
11-24-2009, 11:42 PM
Thanks Cue! I didn't see those black tubes until you mentioned that.

cuemaker
11-25-2009, 12:24 AM
Well, I went back out to try it again...look for leaks etc... its started to do its thing at 30psi. I took off the filter/muffler and it was blowing air back out on the free wheel and sucking on the chucks...I was also watching the gauge as its few chugs would inch the needle up... I decided the belt squeal was killing me to i fiddled with that, and then all of a sudden, it started working like it was ment to... kick off at 125... i ran the air out below 90 and it kicked on no problems, cut out again at 125psi...

maybe it worked its issues out? maybe i didnt have enough tension on the belt? I did fiddle with the belt.. I havent emptied it yet and let it start fresh yet.. will do that tomorrow...

Also, is the intake tube into the check valve supposed to get very hot??

Arcane
11-25-2009, 01:12 AM
Yes, the tube on my compressor will get very hot after it's ran a fair amount of time. Some compressors have a finned tube here to help cooling.

Roy Andrews
11-25-2009, 01:17 AM
yes very hot. and all of your plumbing to the top of the heads was a waste of time and serves no purpose but shouldn't be part of your problem. it is part of a continuous unloader which would have been fed by a pressure valve which when the pressure in the tank exceeded a certain level would have supplied air to the two heads opening the valves so that the compressor would freewheel. your problem could be belt slippage. the startup unloader works on centripetal force and if the belt slips to just below activation speed it would just unload and when pressure lowered enough for the compressor to spin a little faster it would reengage and pump.