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snowman
12-10-2009, 08:40 PM
I need a longer term project. Lots of short term quickies, but I need something that will keep me busy for a while.

Quite often I need something ground, I don't generally need any type of "precision", just a quick touchup, or a custom tool of some sort. None of it is working at aerospace tolerances.

I'm considering the quorn, but have heard a lot of complaints about it in the past. I am not going to buy the castings, but do most of it out of aluminum because I can get it cheap from the scrapyard.

Any thoughts?

TGTool
12-10-2009, 10:03 PM
JBD Willis has redesigned the original Quorn around building from stock and incorporated some changes to the design. You might look for the drawings and his rationale for the changes he made as you consider options. In the files section of http://groups.yahoo.com/group/quorn_owners you can find the Bonelle stuff. The group discussions might also have some ideas about what has worked, what hasn't, what's been problematical etc.

bjmh46
12-11-2009, 09:47 AM
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showpost.php?p=489740&postcount=88

did just what you're talking about a couple of years ago!

Bob

snowman
12-11-2009, 09:55 AM
Yes you did! Would you mind shooting a couple more pictures of it?

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out over the weekend.

Bill Pace
12-11-2009, 11:14 AM
Would you mind shooting a couple more pictures of it?

Oh yes, please do Bob!! Lane and I both admired that little grinder when you posted it. Love to get a few more pics and maybe some comments on how you come up with it , what it'll handle, spindle, collets, etc, etc, etc....

BillC
12-11-2009, 11:32 AM
Bob also can you tell me Little about the horizontal band saw did you build that? what the cutting capacity of it thanks for your time Bill.

Too_Many_Tools
12-11-2009, 11:45 AM
Oh yes, please do Bob!! Lane and I both admired that little grinder when you posted it. Love to get a few more pics and maybe some comments on how you come up with it , what it'll handle, spindle, collets, etc, etc, etc....

Same here.

Nice job on the TC grinder.

Nice job on ALL the tools.

TMT

bborr01
12-11-2009, 11:59 AM
Bob,

Excellent job on the home built machines. All I can say is more, more, more.:)

Brian

bjmh46
12-11-2009, 01:44 PM
Thanks for all the kind words, guys!

Having owned and rebuilt a Cincy #1 1/2 (yeah a 1 1/2! pat ~1909 IIRC) I always regretted selling it. One day going thru my junk, er treasures, I ran across some THK HSR15 linear brgs that were lightly used surplus and the idea struck me to build a small grinder. I wanted it to be not too much bigger than a Cuttermaster, but more versatile. After designing and building the grinder and the initial tooling (workhead with air bearing spindle), it became a work in progress so that now I've got fixtures and tooling to sharpen just about everything I need to sharpen, including endmills, reamers, counterbores, sf countersinks, even bandsaw blades. Let me post a couple more pics (I think theres a limit/post?) and then you guys ask if theres something in particular you want to see.
Grinder basic specs:
motor: 3/4 hp 3450rpm 3L drive to spindle
Spindle: 7204 ang contact ball brg 3 in/ft taper for wheel adapters. tilts + and - 30 degrees.
Table travel 10 in by 10 in. X is by .035 aircraft cable (zero backlash), Y is via 1/2-10 acme leadscrew.


BillC, you asked about the horizontal bandsaw. Let' see:

Capacity: 9 in. round @90 deg., will miter 6 in sch40 pipe @45 deg. (~6.5), 10 inch flat.
Blade speed 0-160 fpm
Blade size 1/2 x 92 (bimetal 10/14 mostly)
Swivel: 0-60 degrees.
Mist coolant (mostly never used!)
Quick switch to vertical

This is about the fourth horizontal I've built, and I thought the last, but I've kinda got the urge to do one more before I get too d**ned old to sling the iron around. I don't know why more hobbyists don't do their own saws--It's a great learning experience and basic skill builder and heck, you need a saw anyway!

Pics:
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu208/bjmh46/rearMedium.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu208/bjmh46/rear_leftMedium.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu208/bjmh46/spindle_tiltscale_clsup2Medium.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu208/bjmh46/tablestop_clsupMedium2.jpg



Better not push my luck! Had 7 images up but it told me I was limited to 4!

Bob

CountZero
12-11-2009, 02:07 PM
You can just post a second reply with the rest of the images.

Very nice work!

reggie_obe
12-11-2009, 02:38 PM
Snowman, you're out in the "rust belt", should be lots of auctions going on. Why not pick up a KO Lee, Cinci, etc. tool and cutter grinder? Just build whatever tool holding accessories you need.

snowman
12-11-2009, 11:00 PM
Don't have the room for another floor planted machine. I've got a small amount of bench space available for such a tool though.

rockrat
12-12-2009, 09:41 AM
The bench mounted ones are around. One was at auction over here just last month. It was attached to a cast metal stand but many of the little ones can be removed from the stand and mounted to a bench, this one could be changed over.

If you really want to make one then cool. But if your willing to purchase, look around you may find one.

rock~

Paul Alciatore
12-12-2009, 11:31 AM
I've been thinking about the same thing and have even started a bit. I also don't have room for a floor machine and want a relatively small, bench top one.

One of the first things I considered is that there are two basic motions for the cutter that you need while sharpening it; lateral or left-right linear motion and rotional motion. The air bearing is usually used to provide both of these at once to allow the helical edge of a cutter to be brought smoothly across the wheel. It seems to me that an air bearing is needed because of this simultaneous, dual motion: linear and rotional. But this is not necessary as the two motions could be separated, linear ball bearings could be used for the linear motion and standard radial ball bearings for the rotational motion. It seems that this separation would provide smooth operation in both cases. Alignment would be critical as any angular difference in the axies would produce a tapered tool. Again, that could be a plus for some tools. I don't have any evidence that this would work, but I am anxious to test it out.

Of course, you also need an infeed, but that can be a standard feed arangement using dovetail slides and a regular lead screw as it is not used during the actual grinding pass and can be locked down.

I am also worried about keeping the grit out of things. An air bearing is almost self cleaning in that it would tend to blow the grit away from the bearing surfaces. But linear and radial ball bearings would not be, so some kind of protection is needed. Any ideas/suggestions here would be nice. And yes, I am aware of boots. I even downloaded some instructions for rolling your own from a camera building site.

Another big area of concern is the tool holding system. You really need collets but that can be big bucks. Especially if you want to be able to hold tools with shanks up to 3/4" or 1" or even larger. I have tossed some ideas around in my head and on a sketch pad, but haven't decided on anything yet. I am assuming that there are no chucks available that would cost less than a full set of collets and that would be accurate enough for this purpose. One idea I have had was to start with a built in, dedicated collet at about 1.25" ID and add slotted sleeves to bring it down to the tool's shank size. These sleeves would be simple cylinders with a concentric hole: easy to make on the lathe. You could make the sleeves yourself using a slotting design like the ER collets have so that each one would cover a range of sizes. So a handfull (16 to 18) of shop made sleeves would cover a range of say 1/4" to 1". Perhaps a double sleeve system could be used for smaller sizes: say one to bring it down to perhaps 3/8" and a smaller one for the actual size. Not really sure how well this would work. Or a second full sized collet to fit the original spindle and it would have the 3/8" bore size to hold the smaller sleeves. This sounds like it would have less run out. That's a lot of sleeves, but you could make them as needed. Another possibility for the smaller shank sizes would be to make a stub holder for some small ER collets. I have a set of ER-11s that cover up to about 1/4" so that might work. Again, any ideas or suggestions would be nice.

snowman
12-13-2009, 12:31 AM
Bob,

Do you have any closeup pics of your spindle?

-Jacob

bjmh46
12-13-2009, 08:00 AM
Sorry Snowman, I don't have anything that would be of much value. If you tell me what you are interested in, I might be able to take some assuming you don't want me to disassemble!

Bob

Mcgyver
12-13-2009, 08:29 AM
beautiful work! keep that camera busy, its great seeing the pics.

I think T&CG capacity in the homeshop should be much more prevalent than it is - it leads to improved workmanship always having sharp milling cutters and perfect drills.

I have a benchtop unit but recently upgraded to small full sized model with motorized workhead. This one needed work, its a Chevaleir (Tiwain) and I don't think it was that good out of the factory. Acquiring and restoring it would be less time and expense than a scratch build and i'd end up with much greater capacity; bigger machine and in this case a light cylindrical grinder as well.

just an alternative approach for consideration, still a major project but more scraping than machining....but there are plenty of opportunities for machining brilliance in all the accessories you can make for it - see Lanes sensitive workhead for example. You did say space is a premium, maybe you just need a bigger pry bar? :D

reggie_obe
12-13-2009, 01:07 PM
The KO Lee B series (6xx, 9xx) T&C grinders aren't that large and are detachable from their base, so is the Delta ToolMaker. Or look for a used Cuttermaster at auction.