View Full Version : Need help with rotary table

Steve Steven
01-01-2010, 11:38 PM
I have a rotary table, about 8" size I guess. Its an ENCO Brand, no longer in their catalog. ENCO number on the label plate is 2 00 1033. I have the plates for it, but not the sector parts. I have put some photos of it, currently mounted on my VanNorman #12, below.

I have no paperwork on it, I bought it from an old man many years ago, It must be about 20 years old. I have tried to figure out how to turn the table without having to crank it around, I have been told it can be done, "just disengage the worm from the table". Well I haven't been able to do this, I tried a few days ago and took loose the screws holding the black ring around the crank, but that did not loosen up anything.

Anyone have some thoughts on how to do this? I can get more detailed photos if needed.

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.






01-01-2010, 11:53 PM
Try moving that big chrome handle that is pointing up.

01-02-2010, 12:22 AM
It could be the screw I have circled in the photo. The release screw on mine is in a similar location. The crank body on mine will rotate after loosening the screw and then the table will turn freely.



Paul Alciatore
01-02-2010, 12:24 AM
Try moving that big chrome handle that is pointing up.

Ditto. If it doesn't move, perhaps one of the screws I see in the photos is a lock. Or you may need some penetrating oil.

The commercial rotary tables I have seen use an offset rotation of it's axis to move the worm into and out of engagement.

01-02-2010, 12:25 AM
You likey have to loosen one or two of those setscrews next to the handle. (Just a guess) and then the handle will move.

Unfortualy im not completely sure if its the set screws in the silver part or black part. And if that black 'knob' part that sticks out has anything to do with it. But basicly the operation is getting that handle to freely move (its locked in place by SOMETHING, and will freely rotate once that is removed), rotate it about 90~180 degrees and the table should spin freely (Well, with a really strong nudge, but no need to beat on it with a hammer)

Theres also an adjustment that sets the 'stop' point for the fully engaged point of the level reduce backlash and wear, you do not want to adjust that by accident or you will have to readjust it for backlash.
(Do not try and lock the handle down 'super tight' to reduce backlash, thats not how its done, theres typicaly a setscrew to set a fixed 'stop' position for fully engaged)

doctor demo
01-02-2010, 12:27 AM
I've got what seems to be the same table, only it is not an Enco.
As far as I know , the worm can't be disengaged. I'll bet I've cranked that handle to the moon and back in twenty+ years I have owned it.


01-02-2010, 12:35 AM
The handle is the lock. Turn it down 90deg. Then turn the whole hand crank assy. to the right. It should pivot to drop the gear out of mesh.

01-02-2010, 05:01 AM
I'm guessing here as I have a vertex RT, but it's probably made in the same factory or the one next door...
On the vertex the silver lever is mounted to an eccentric that when it is rotated clockwise (facing the handwheel) swings the worm out of the way. The sleeve is prevented from rotating by a little thumbscrew on the flat surface of the RT body immediately behind the lever. Being extremely perceptive, I notice you have not got one of these. I would be trying in the first instance the black screw sticking out in the 10/11 o'clock position and see if that unlocks.
I was milling a radiused slot yesterday when the thumbscrew came loose and the worm disengaged. After that all I can say is make sure it is locked before using the table as a 4th axis.

01-02-2010, 05:11 AM
The two black pins look like they combine to make a rotation stop for the work housing to me.

Steve Steven
01-02-2010, 10:56 AM
Thanks for all the suggestions. The big chrome handle moves the silver barrel with the vernier for the handwheel dial, it is not the right one.

I have loosened and removed the hold down screws on the black ring (one of the screws shows up on the last photo at 9'oclock) and it did not loosen the ring.

I don't recall what the black lever at 11'oclock did, but as you can see I have messed with it a bit.

Kieth/RKW, you may have the answer. I am going out to the shop and try it, heres a better shot of that area.

Perhaps the black lever at 11 o'clock will do it when the silver screw is loosened.


01-02-2010, 11:36 AM
This may sound like a radical step, but I think you should strip it right down.

I doubt that's ever been done and can be really worth while. Even with a new British or American rotab (or other tooling) I would consider it these days. On the 'value' tooling or on anything second hand I'd nearly always do a strip and inspect followed by a clean and lube.

The dividing head I bought little used from my boss (possibly Vertex) is nicely made, but the bearings were full of congealed anti-corrosion grease and I found a piece of swarf under the needle roller thrust bearing. After a rebuild it's like oiled silk.

If you take it apart, you'll know how it works!

Steve Steven
01-02-2010, 12:53 PM
Just in from the shop, Kieth was right! That setscrew (5mm hex key) in the hole was the lock, loosened that and twisted the silver assembly and it loosened up and I could turn it.

Thanks to everyone, problem solved.


01-02-2010, 12:54 PM
I bought a 10" low profile Enco rotary table at an auction cheap because it had lots of slop in the gears. To find out what was wrong I tore it down and found out how to disengage it and adjust it and when I got it back together it was like new. Enco was no help on getting any info. They said they get them from several sources and they don't have a clue which one to go to.

I too will suggest tearing it down to clean and oil it and find out how the heck it works.