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View Full Version : R8 collet won't fit?



wagnerite
01-13-2010, 04:42 PM
I have this drill/mill from Lobos, dont know what model it is, probably is an import. it looks identical to the Grizzly G3358

http://cdn2.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g3358.jpg
http://grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill/G3358

I bought a set of import R8 collets and some fit, and didn't. I returned the set, and bought a Lindex 3/4" R8, and it won't fit either?!?! :confused:

it feels like the groove on the side of the Lyndex R8 is not deep enough. I tried installing the collet with and without an endmill. I do have 3 other collets from Grizzly (taiwanese) that fits with no trouble at all. what gives? is this usual?

SpyGuy
01-13-2010, 04:52 PM
How long have you had it? Did you buy it new? Is it still under warranty? Do you have any other toolholders that fit besides the 3 Grizzly collets?

Hard to tell without more info, but it sounds like the key in the spindle (that engages the groove) is extended out too far.

recoilless
01-13-2010, 04:56 PM
If you can, try removing the set screw in the spindle that engages the slot on collet. I don't know how easy it is to access it on this model of mill (or if it is even installed at all??).
1. How far into the spindle will the collets go? Even w/ an endmill in, I'd think the .950 dia would fit to a point.
2. Did you notice any scratches/marking on the ones that wouldn't go all the way in?

wagnerite
01-13-2010, 04:59 PM
How long have you had it? Did you buy it new? Is it still under warranty? Do you have any other toolholders that fit besides the 3 Grizzly collets?

Hard to tell without more info, but it sounds like the key in the spindle (that engages the groove) is extended out too far.

I bought it used. I have the surface tool that's in the picture, that fit. two drill chucks with R8 bodies, those two fit as well (although, difficult to remove), 3 R8 taiwanese grizzly collets that fit. those are all i have.

is the key removable or adjustable?

wagnerite
01-13-2010, 05:01 PM
If you can, try removing the set screw in the spindle that engages the slot on collet. I don't know how easy it is to access it on this model of mill (or if it is even installed at all??).
1. How far into the spindle will the collets go? Even w/ an endmill in, I'd think the .950 dia would fit to a point.
2. Did you notice any scratches/marking on the ones that wouldn't go all the way in?

i can tell where the key is, but thats all it will go in.

recoilless
01-13-2010, 05:03 PM
is the key removable or adjustable?[/QUOTE]

It should be, and many would submit that you don't really need it. Just kinda helps keep collet from spinning when turning draw bar. Many mills out there w/out the key in them

wagnerite
01-13-2010, 05:39 PM
well, if that's the case, then the key is coming off tonight. will save me 20 seconds everytime I install a different collet

Arcane
01-13-2010, 08:35 PM
Quite a coincidence! Same thing just happened to me this past week. A new Busy Bee store just opened up here this past December and I was in looking around...saw a nice little R-8 to MT2 adapter and had to have it. I got it home, went to slip it into my BP clone mill....and no go! I miked the .9490 to .9495 end and found that it was within specs. Then I miked an R-8 3/4" collect which is the tightest fitting (very tight) of the handful of R-8 toolholders that I have and it proved to be 3 to 4 ten thous smaller in diameter than the MT2 adapter and the adapter mikes out at .9495. Apparently my spindle is just a tad on the tight side so I will have to carefuly reduce the diameter down on my brand new adapter until it slips home. I suspect the same might hold true for you.

madman
01-13-2010, 09:51 PM
Looks Chinese Good Luck.

Carld
01-13-2010, 10:23 PM
I would suspect the key causing the problem. Measure the bore of the spindle to see if it is bigger than the collets and if so then the key is the trouble.

loose nut
01-14-2010, 09:25 PM
Had one like that, the keyway on the collet was off center by a few thou. and it would not fit. If some fit and some don't it would seem that the collets are guilty.

dockrat
01-14-2010, 10:59 PM
Had one like that, the keyway on the collet was off center by a few thou. and it would not fit. If some fit and some don't it would seem that the collets are guilty.

Ditto here too

Your Old Dog
01-15-2010, 03:08 PM
I had trouble with the groove in many of my collets not being deep enough. I went at them with a Dremel and the quarter sized cut off wheel to deepen the ones that needed it and now they work fine. Mine came from Enco and I paid for imports, not the pricey ones!

wagnerite
01-19-2010, 12:22 PM
I can't imagine a Lyndex collet being the wrong size. I have to say my other Taiwanese R8s are cut deeper then necessary (fortunately, they fit the mill). I tried to mill the groove deeper on the Lyndex, it just feels wrong to do that to a $30 collet.

I took a peek into the column and the "key" that goes into the R8's groove is just a pin. Unfortunately, in order to get to the pin, i need to remove the spindle shaft. Is this a simple procedure? I know there are bearings in there are two bearing involved (tapered bearing and another bearing)... would i have to press these bearings in/out or will the spindle just come off if i just undo the take up nut?

there is a hole on the side of the quill, but can't reach the pin, only visual, which makes it more frustrating.

Carld
01-19-2010, 12:30 PM
I know others will be aghast at this suggestion but if you take a die grinder with a burr and reach in and grind the pin flat with the bore it will no longer bother you.

This is best done with so way to watch in the bore while your grinding. Do be careful to stay away from the angled surface at the entry of the bore.

gnm109
01-19-2010, 12:55 PM
It's a version of Rong Fu. I owned the same machine from Harbor Freight. Mine wouldn't take the R-8's consistently either when I got it. I doubt that there is anything wrong with any of the collets that you bought.

I finally removed the spindle and discovered that the screw that was threaded into the side of the spindle to intersect the notch in the R8 collets was loose from the factory and a bit too far in (and also cockeyed, to finish up the thrd leg of bad luck)

I found a hardened roller bearing from an old Harley set that I had and ground the tip to fit the R8 slot with a dremel tool whilst rotating it. then I drilled the threaded hole out for the larger major diameter of the roller to give a tight (did I say tight?) press fit and pressed it in with a collet in place.

Problem solved. I never had another problem with the R8's fitting. The machine was actually quite good for a round column machine. I'm actually sorry i didn't have enough room to keep it since it was the best drill press I ever had. No offense intended. LOL.

.

ckelloug
01-19-2010, 01:01 PM
I had a problem recently on my Bridgeport with a Lyndex collet not tightening down all the way. It turned out that the collet was fine but my factory Bridgeport drawbar had stretched and there threads going high enough up to properly engage the collet. I chucked the sucker up in the length and added another half inch of threads and all was well.

--Cameron

wagnerite
01-19-2010, 02:23 PM
none taken. I'm fully aware that this is not a real mill.

how did you remove the spindle? was it a pain? did you need bearing press? I'm asking because I also want to clean it up real nice. since I bought this machine from a wood guy (eek!) there wood dust in all sort of places.




It's a version of Rong Fu. I owned the same machine from Harbor Freight. Mine wouldn't take the R-8's consistently either when I got it. I doubt that there is anything wrong with any of the collets that you bought.

I finally removed the spindle and discovered that the screw that was threaded into the side of the spindle to intersect the notch in the R8 collets was loose from the factory and a bit too far in (and also cockeyed, to finish up the thrd leg of bad luck)

I found a hardened roller bearing from an old Harley set that I had and ground the tip to fit the R8 slot with a dremel tool whilst rotatind it. then I drilled the threaded hole out for the larger major diameter of the roller to give a tight (did I say tight?) press fit and pressed it in with a collet in place.

Problem solved. I never had another problem with the R8's fitting. The machine was actually quite good for a round column machine. I'm actually sorry i didn't have enough room to keep it since it was the best drill press I ever had. No offense intended. LOL.

.

gnm109
01-19-2010, 04:57 PM
none taken. I'm fully aware that this is not a real mill.

how did you remove the spindle? was it a pain? did you need bearing press? I'm asking because I also want to clean it up real nice. since I bought this machine from a wood guy (eek!) there wood dust in all sort of places.


It wasn't difficult to remove the spindle at all. It was just a matter of removing the covers until the upper bearing nut was uncovered. IIRC, there was a lock tab on the mill that I had. I didn't remove the pulley.

It was about 10 years ago but as I remember, it just dropped right out. After fitting the roller and pressing it in tightly, I ground the part of the roller off that was protruding.

In refitting the spindle, I simply greased the bearings again, tightened it up and got a small bit of preload on it and then locked it up again. I never had the least bit of trouble with it after that and it was still fine when I sold it last year after some ten years of use.

The Mill Drills are a real mill, by the way. Lots of good work is done on them. The principal negatives are difficulty of tramming and the general lack of travel capacity. The one that I had was fitted with a very nice 2 hp TECF motor that really put out. So, it's not all bad.

As I said, they are also a great machine for drilling big holes. With mine set on the slowest speed, Using my Silver & Deming style drill, I drilled many a 1" hole in steel plates with nary a whimper. I can't really do that on my vintage Craftsman because it won't slow down enough.

Here's a link to a download of the Enco 105-1110 (same or similar to most Mill Drills of that class). Look at pages 13 and 14 for the parts listings and parts blowups. You will see how it comes apart.


http://www.box.net/shared/e21b39lgcs

wagnerite
01-20-2010, 01:45 AM
thanks gnm109 for the pdf, much more detailed then the grizzly version.