View Full Version : Help building a sterling engine

L Prince
01-27-2010, 07:11 PM
Well I have been doing a lot of arm chair machining over the past few years and have not been in the garage as much as I would have liked too. Now that I am not the volunteer Fire Chief of my local fire dept I amazingly have a whole lot more time on my hands and I am kind of bored so I remembered that my wife purchased me a sterling engine kit from grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/products/Horizontal-Stirling-Engine-Kit/H8101

I stared to review the manual http://cdn2.grizzly.com/manuals/h8101_m.pdf and I am having trouble understanding how to make a couple of parts. The most troublesome part is on page 17 of the above link ref #5, the piece of material they provide is a brass rod blank that is 3 mm dia x 40 mm long I guess I need to bend the rod to conform to the dimensions given but how do I make the tab located on the left end of the shaft? It is 5 mm wide and the original piece is only 3 mm. I do not think I am supposed to play black smith and beat the part into submission (although I could loose some aggression right now) The corresponding bolt that goes through the tab (part # 47 Page 33 of document) is 2 mm.

Maybe I spent too much time at the fire house and inhaled too much carbon monoxide but i cant get my head around making this part with material supplied I am ready to make it out of a 5 mm rod machine the tab turn the remaining part down to 3mm and make a jig to bend it according to the dimensions.

Hopefully some one has built this engine kit and can provide some advice. It is the same kit sold here http://www.mechanicalmodels.com/hae01.htm

01-27-2010, 07:37 PM
Rather than beating it with a hammer, I would smush it with a vise, it will be more controllable. It might help to anneal it before smushing. Just heat to a dull red with a propane torch and allow to cool or quench in water. Annealing will facilitate bending the kink in the center also.

An alternate would be to silver solder a tab on the end. Make it oversize and file to shape.

Enjoy your spare time, as a volunteer Fire Chief, you have certainly earned it. Thanks for your service.

01-27-2010, 08:58 PM
shouldn't there be another blank? the plan says its from an 8mm blank. you could machine it all from solid or in two pieces and loctite or solder together (imo soft solder would be more than enough)....but it definitely isn't a part for the forge :).

01-27-2010, 09:46 PM
If I am looking at the correct part on the assembly page it looks like the rod has the end attached as a separate piece. In looking at the drawing of the part I would think it would work just fine if end is only as large as the rod with the hole centered in it. These type of engines do not produce a large amount of power to stress the parts so that should work OK.

01-27-2010, 10:43 PM
I have built the same engine. Part 5 is threaded on one end to go into part 6 and the other end is reduced and cross drilled and then pinned to part 4. If you want I can shoot a pic of the finished part.