View Full Version : Self starting rotary converter-the way I do it.

10-22-2003, 11:50 PM
Okay,with all the talk about rotary or idler type converters I thought I would post a picture of the design I use.

As always wire at your own risk,if you don't know what your looking at ask.if you still don't know then don't do it,I am insured by LBRFW (LARGE BORE RAPID FIRE WEAPONRY) http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Ask your local experts(code offices/electricianc) for advice.

The design is based around a common centrifugal switch and flywieght like the one found in a single phase cap.start motor,you can find these used or I will post the part#s tomorrow.

OOPS! Forgot this-
[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 10-22-2003).]

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 10-22-2003).]

10-29-2003, 02:14 PM
Weird- graingers used to sell (and probably still does) a time delay switch,to be used for replacing centrifugal switches in motor starting. Since the purpose of the start capacitor is just to get the motor turning correctly at start up, it would probably save some of the mechanical work required to install a centrifugal switch.

10-29-2003, 04:19 PM
A controller for a down hole well pump does the same thing and can be easily found in any rural area. It also has the start capacitor.

10-29-2003, 10:51 PM
I think what you guys are refering to is a bi-metal relay,I have tried them they do work,but they have a bad habit of failing on the weekend when nobody is open.

I like the cent. switches because they are more dependable and installation is easy since your not driving anything with the motor,I just drill and tap the end of the shaft for a standoff to accept the flywhieght assembly,I cover it up with a box big enough to hold the switch the start cap. and all the other wiring.

The other neat thing is,if ever the idler should happen to stall(never has yet)the switch drops in and kicks it over.

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 10-29-2003).]

10-30-2003, 01:13 AM
Nope, not a bi-metal relay. The well motor controller is electronic with a triac to switch the start winding. Not expensive either. Works year after year. No moving parts and no contacts to crud up.