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View Full Version : #2 Morse taper live center?



pgmrdan
10-27-2003, 03:14 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 03-19-2004).]

bikenut
10-28-2003, 02:21 PM
OK

tonydacrow
10-28-2003, 03:08 PM
No! I want to mind. And if I want to mind, no one is going to stop me from minding. So far from "never" minding, I intend to always mind! Besides, my father always said "you always mind, boy!" Do you really expect me to go against my father's wishes? What kind of evil influence are you attempting to manifest?

In addition, just think what happens to all those minds when you "never mind." They're wasted. And we all know a mind is a terrible thing to waste. So, I insist on minding now and in the future... Oh, crap. I think I've lost my mind. Never m... aw forget it.

lynnl
10-28-2003, 03:27 PM
Shucks! I was curious to see the responses to this. ...was waiting with baited breath. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

pgmrdan
10-28-2003, 03:30 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Dr. Rob
10-28-2003, 03:50 PM
Yeah, I was all amped to answer this one. Was just waiting for the suspense to build up.

Prgrmrdan, that sounded like a good enough thing. Did you get it?

pgmrdan
10-28-2003, 03:52 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Oso
10-28-2003, 05:17 PM
I never could resist a worm on a hook....that's why I live on land now. The fish don't "people".

Back to the question

Sure it will work, at least for a while.

Might have too much runout for you, might not.

Probably isn't intended to be as good as a Skoda or whatever, nobody but you knows if its good enough for your purpose. Might be better than the Griz version..... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

JCHannum
10-28-2003, 05:38 PM
It might take high speeds better, as wood lathes generally run much faster. Bearings might not stand up to higher pressures involved.

lynnl
10-28-2003, 05:49 PM
At one time I had a Sears wood lathe and ball bearing center. I think it was a MT-1 tho. It probably would have worked ok for small, light metal turning jobs, but I don't think I'd buy one just for that purpose.

Al Messer
10-28-2003, 07:09 PM
Dan, I bought one of them from Sears years ago that had a No.1 Morse taper and used it very successfully on my 6 inch Atlas lathe.

Chester
10-28-2003, 07:18 PM
Have had one for a number of years and used it both on my SB and wood lathe, and still fine. But how does one change the bearing? (Assume it is the type in which the stub arbour is pressed into the ID and the pointed cap is pressed on the OD)

wierdscience
10-28-2003, 08:06 PM
Well the bearing in the center is probibly bigger than the one in the mini-lathe headstock so have at it http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif Sorry couldn't resist http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Forrest Addy
10-28-2003, 09:00 PM
Would a wood lathe live center from craftsman work on a metal lathe? Yes for load bearing under very limited circumstances. No, not at all for precision. I've seen and handled the center you refer to. It's a cheap POS even for Sears.

Most wood live centers have a "cup" with a concentric spur to better grip the end grain of the wood. This wouldn't work at all with metal because the cup wouldn't bite significantly and the spur has a different included angle from the standard 60 degree cone used in metal turning. A standard combinations center drill won't make the proper prep for the wood live center.

Your lust for a bargain is leading you to make a wasted purchase.

Spend a few bucks and get a low-cost engine lathe live center for $24 to $30 such as found in the Enco catalog (on page 207 and 208) and other catalog sellers.

[This message has been edited by Forrest Addy (edited 10-28-2003).]

pgmrdan
10-29-2003, 09:06 AM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Al Messer
10-29-2003, 10:27 AM
You know, our ancestors managed quite well for a hundred years using a "dead center" in the lathe tailstock. I still use one on occassion and usually find that I get better accuracy than when I use my Chinese-made "ball bearing tail-stock center" that leakes out the lubricant about as fast as I pump it in. I suppose for production work, a ball bearing center in a necessity, but for years a whole lot of precision work has been done the old fashioned way. Oh, by the way, for lubricating a cead center, I use plain old STP---works great.

pgmrdan
10-29-2003, 11:35 AM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Paul Alciatore
10-29-2003, 11:27 PM
Dead centers do seem to wear rapidly but I ask if it makes any difference. The wear is normally in the form of some very well centered groves and I strongly suspect that they are just as concentric as the original cone. So wouldn't the work stay well centered even with moderate wear on the center?

Paul

Oso
10-29-2003, 11:48 PM
You can get carbide tip solid centers..ain't gonna wear very badly, unless you get outside the carbide area.

pgmrdan
10-31-2003, 03:16 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Evan
10-31-2003, 03:36 PM
The headstock center is unhardened so it may be re-machined true as needed. Since it rotates with the work, hardening isn't a requirement. The (formerly) best lubricant for a dead center used to be white or red lead paste. I suspect good results could be had with moly-slip. I have a very good live center so I rarely use my dead centers. A good live center will have two bearings, one at the pointy end and another at the tail end of the taper with a removable cap for lubrication. This way the rotating tip and shaft is held by two bearings about 4" apart making it run very true.

SGW
10-31-2003, 04:09 PM
Hey, pgmrdan. I'm from a long line of nickel-and-dimeing Yankees. I've had my times of being extremely tightfisted too. Don't take my comment so much to heart.

In the present instance, I stronlgy suspect you'd find the precision of the bearings in the live center inadequate. A wood lathe center can tolerate a couple thou play in $5 bearings, but that would be totally inadequate for a metal lathe.

And because of my personal cheapness http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif I've never gotten a live center. I've always found a dead center to be quite satisfactory, once I figured out how to keep an eye on the pressure being applied to it as the work heats up, and unless you spend big bucks I imagine a dead center is more accurate, anyway. I think you can buy a really good Bison dead center for under $10.



[This message has been edited by SGW (edited 10-31-2003).]

pgmrdan
10-31-2003, 04:10 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

pgmrdan
10-31-2003, 04:31 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

Evan
10-31-2003, 05:04 PM
http://www.molyslip.com/Products/MolySlipG.html

Good stuff!

Bruce Griffing
10-31-2003, 06:09 PM
I would get a Bison carbide dead center. They are not expensive, accurate and will last.

pgmrdan
10-31-2003, 07:11 PM
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[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 11-16-2003).]

spope14
10-31-2003, 07:38 PM
Heck, my best live centers in the school shop come from Enco, and they are going on 15 to even 18 years old. Something happened there, they got a good product in during their otherwise "scary" time.

The wood lathe center....actually went off and looked at a wood lathe center in the shop down the hall. #2 Morse. Seemed good if this is what i am thinking of, almost the same as the old #2 morses I had on my South Bend 10" and 13" lathes a few years back (miss those bombproof buggers).

As for the "loads", I have an honest question for you all. I have turned wood for many years now, only but for the last five I have not..... The loads on a 60 deg live center, they seem to ba almost the same all things compared, but with more "interrupted type' of cuts...say when roughing material, grain patterns across the tool causing an "interrupted" type of cut load. Lots of "to the tail" loads on a wood lathe as well, seeing that in wood turning you tend to cut both ways, many times at a good "load" of cut. This is constant "back and forth" on the Z axis combined with the X axis plunge as you go both ways (lattitude and longitude).

Based on my previous experience with 60 deg wood lathe centers, I would normally say they would really be no different for a good quality item.

I am not familiar with the wood center from sears, but as a general question - not the burr end center - but the 60 degree live center, would they generally be the same animal when taking the "forces" into consideration?

Good question Mrdan, and my response is an honest observation question based on previous experience, and such, as well as adding a bit of "things to consider" to the comments above (also good, which made me consider this question to add to the pot).