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laddy
03-13-2010, 12:29 PM
Hey,
I have an old Atlas shaper. It has no plate on the motor. It was the early model with no table support. It was not grounded and the wires were screwed up. The motor has two poles on it, upper one and lower one. Two wires go to a toggle switch. From the plug.... Am I correct that white wire goes to upper post and the black wire goes to the switch and the return from switch goes to lower post????? Ground goes to any accessible screw?

Thanks in advance for your help. Fred

laddy
03-13-2010, 02:40 PM
You guys are killing me.....Do I have to beg??? Thanks Fred

Mcgyver
03-13-2010, 03:36 PM
that's how i'd go at it Fred

gvasale
03-13-2010, 04:03 PM
wire the switch in series with the motor. A ground connected to the motor frame with a 3 wire cord? I'm no electrician, but seems easy enough. Forgive me, but this doesn't seem like "rocket science."

laddy
03-13-2010, 04:14 PM
Sure didn't work! I hooked up the white to the top post. The black to the switch leg. The return from the switch to the lower post of the moter and NOTHING! Then I switched them from upper post to lower post and visa versa and Nothing!!!! Don't know what to do next. Thanks Fred

Sharpshootermb
03-13-2010, 04:24 PM
Laddy, take a look at this link, there is somewhat of a wiring diaghram on page 2 of the pdf.

http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/techman/Atlas%20Shaper.pdf

MuellerNick
03-13-2010, 04:37 PM
Two wires go to a toggle switch.

OMG! Don't play with electrics without clue! ;)
That means, the switch has 4 contcats, right?
Then two wires go from the plug into the switch, then two wires from the other side of the switch to the motor.

If the switch has only 2 contacts, it simply breaks one line from the plug, the other one going straight from the plug to the motor.

If your plugs always have neutral on the same wire, the phase ("hot") has to go through the switch!


I don't know about your colors. At least you shoud know what PE is.:eek:


Nick

dezy
03-13-2010, 04:59 PM
Did you say you had two wires coming from the plug? Because if you are trying to fix/improve a ground problem you would need a three prong plug/cord, (110 volts AC) with three wires in it.

1.) a power
2.) a neutral
3.) a ground

Verify which one is the power. The other is neutral and the ground wire will get screwed to the metal housing (somehow). The switch will open/close the power line (that you verified 100% certainty) between the plug and motor.
It is possible that the power and neutral wires on the two motor posts will make the motor run backwards, if necessary just switch them.
If you have pictures that would help a lot when you are trying to describe the upper and lower posts of the motor. Do they have writing, sticker, or markings on or near them? Maybe a spot of paint? A post with a marking maybe the power one.

Don't stand in a puddle, hire an electrician.

Let us know,
Dezy, on a rainy day.

Al Messer
03-13-2010, 06:37 PM
My original Atlas motor had a two pronged plug, no third wire. Upon inspection, neither does my SB-7.

lynnl
03-13-2010, 07:00 PM
Has this thing worked for you before, or is it newly acquired?

Perhaps the switch and/or the motor is kaputsky.
Perhaps the magic smoke escaped.

Is there continuity accross the switch when closed?

Is there a thermal reset on the motor?

Are there any wirenut connections? ....possibly concealing a bad connection.

Just tossing out some ideas here.

Duffy
03-13-2010, 07:03 PM
You have an Atlas shaper from just after the FLOOD. That is just fine. The motor probably NEVER had a ground. FIRST get the motor to run with a cord and a switch. Then wire a swith for the machine. At that time you could run a ground to the frame of the motor, but you will NEVER fish three wires up to the toggle switch. Personally, I abandoned that switch and used a cover plate as a base for a goose-neck lamp. The original switch design and layout is just a bit too cramped for today. it worked when I was born, and it was built, but the electrical codes have changed a tad. I mounted a switch box on the shaper stand; it is not "authentic" but it IS safe, and the machine does not care. Duffy

Mcgyver
03-13-2010, 08:33 PM
Fred, pull that motor off and stuff it in a corner in case a purist some day wants to put everything original....and grab a 1/3-1/2 hp motor off kijiji for $15 bucks. Fractions are just so common, why get into fixing an 70 or 80 year motor?

interiorpainter
03-14-2010, 05:55 AM
Toss the switch because of safety.
Mine transferred power in both the on and off setting.
The resistance of the 'plastic' could not be brought back by sanding out the burned in metal.
In off position it would buzz but not turn the motor and just want to start turning when you slack the belt:eek:
Toss it or headbang the ram:D

dezy
03-14-2010, 01:59 PM
I almost fell off my chair when I visualized the "magic smoke escaping" hahahaaaa ha aha.

Thanks..... lynnl

(Never heard that one before)

Check to make sure there is no continuity from either post to the body housing (ground) when there are no wires connected. If there is then the motor is shorted-out (fried) this condition requires the motor to be re-wound (rebuilt).

Thanks let us know !

JoeCB
03-14-2010, 03:35 PM
Ya' Ya' the old Atlas shaper toggle switch is a bit out of date from a modern electrical standpoint but it's location has an often overlooked functional purpose. You know that the belt tensioner handle also acts as a brake when pushed down... with you right hand on the "brake" lever your thumb is right in position to flip the toggle switch off. This set-up provides a handy jog function when setting up stroke and tool setting.
Joe B

laddy
03-14-2010, 04:54 PM
To all my Buddies, Thanks for your support. The shaper still stands idle. Yes, It ran before I tried to rewire. No flood damage. I wish I never touched it!!!! I fiddled with it yesterday and today. It has power to the motor but nothing.. I will wait a few days to calm down. Thanks to all! I appreciate your friendship! Any more suggestions, keep them coming. Best regards Fred

J Tiers
03-14-2010, 08:22 PM
If you have power "to the motor", but "no rotation"....... then either:

1) you have a humming motor when power is on........ which indicates a problem with the start circuit.

2) the motor just sits there.... which indicates that either you wired power to the wrong wire pairs, the switch is bad or miswired, a wire is open, or the motor is no good. If you really have voltage at the motor, the switch and wires are probably OK.

An ohmmeter will tell you if the motor is open, or the wiring is to the wrong pairs.

If you unplug, turn on the switch, and measure across the line pins of the plug, you should measure a low resistance, probably several ohms. if it is a capacitor start motor, it should read lower, and the resistance should approximately double in a few seconds as the capacitor charges.

If the ohmmeter reads open, check resistance starting at the motor to be sure you used the right pairs. if that's OK then move back to the switch, checking that it works, and is connected to the motor, etc.

You WILL find the problem. These things are not a mystery, they just need correct connections.