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MotorradMike
05-30-2010, 12:30 PM
Hi guys:

I'll be moving a new 800 Lb. mill into my shop. I'll buy a type "5" polyester sling rated at 9600Lbs.(Liftall EN1-602D) in basket mode which I believe I've done in the mockup.
The weakest link is the top bar through the crane which is 3/4" C12L14.
The crane can be set back to 3,000Lb capacity for this load.

I just noticed the webbing is twisted in my picture, I'll not lift like that.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4653046472_2a7d09385f.jpg

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

gda
05-30-2010, 12:45 PM
800# will be fine for the strap strength and bars. The closer you can get the strap to the mill or your crane beam the better.

What I don't know is where you are lifting on the mill so you will have to watch your center of gravity so it does not slip out on you. If your CG is above the lower bar it will most likely tip out on you, especially if you are shoving the crane around, and I certainly would not do it that way.

You might want to do a double wrap on the lower bars, and use a shackle to tie the top together to keep it from sliding around as well.


Do you have a picture of the mill?

djc
05-30-2010, 01:03 PM
You might want to do a double wrap on the lower bars, and use a shackle to tie the top together to keep it from sliding around as well.

What he says. Alternatively, bring the strap on the left hand side of the crane over the top of the jib and loop it under the bar on the RHS and vice versa. A ratchet strap around the machine, squeezing the yellow strap to the machine body can also help.

Fix a couple of boards across the legs of the crane and lower the machine onto them when you are moving about, so machine and crane move as one unit.

Black_Moons
05-30-2010, 01:04 PM
Im a little worryed about that 3/4" bar, seems like it might bend especialy if the straps manage to move to the outside.

Also id recommend buying some smaller rachet straps to strap the head up to keep it from tiping, just tighten them till they start to take a little tension when the main strap is holding all the weight.

wierdscience
05-30-2010, 01:06 PM
Make sure the nylon straps are kept off sharp corners.

MotorradMike
05-30-2010, 02:41 PM
Thanks for the suggestions.
I should have posted a picture.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4652860701_6fd510823f.jpg
Craftex CT054
The stand is separate.

The lower bar goes through the factory hoisting hole in the column which is 3/5 of the way up the overall height. With the knee lowered it should be quite bottom heavy.
I will wrap a strap around the top anyway.
I like the idea of resting it on the crane legs, I had not thought of that.

I like this too"bring the strap on the left hand side of the crane over the top of the jib and loop it under the bar on the RHS and vice versa." I'm guessing that would relieve strain on my 3/4" bar.
The bar through the mill is 7/8" 1018 simply because I wanted to match the hole size.

Your Old Dog
05-30-2010, 08:15 PM
I'm wondering why you have so much 3/4" 12L14 sticking out? It would be dramatically stronger if you only have 2" sticking out on each side if you're using 2" webbing.

I moved my mill similar to how you are doing yours with no problem. I do suggest though that when you move the mill with the engine lift across the room that you put serious boards horizontally across the lifts legs and rest the mill on the boards. I had about 80 percent of the mills weight on the boards when I pushed the entire show across the room. You sure as hell don't want to get the mill swinging from the rope as you move it.

MotorradMike
05-30-2010, 08:37 PM
I'm wondering why you have so much 3/4" 12L14 sticking out? It would be dramatically stronger if you only have 2" sticking out on each side if you're using 2" webbing.

Yes, good point. I made the top bar the same length as the lower bar just because. I will keep the top of the sling close to the crane jib.


I moved my mill similar to how you are doing yours with no problem. I do suggest though that when you move the mill with the engine lift across the room that you put serious boards horizontally across the lifts legs and rest the mill on the boards. I had about 80 percent of the mills weight on the boards when I pushed the entire show across the room. You sure as hell don't want to get the mill swinging from the rope as you move it.

Yes, brilliant. djc beat you to it though. My original plan was to shift it 1/8" off the floor but solidifying the whole thing makes lots of sense.

This is why I asked, and it worked.

Thanks a million, guys.

Tony Ennis
05-30-2010, 08:44 PM
It would be dramatically stronger if you only have 2" sticking out on each side

How does that work? If the strapping is in the inner 2", which is where it belongs, I don't see how extra bar is going to hurt.

MotorradMike
05-30-2010, 09:33 PM
How does that work? If the strapping is in the inner 2", which is where it belongs, I don't see how extra bar is going to hurt.

I think he's worried my strap is not confined to the inner 2".
I don't think you guys are disagreeing.

djc's suggestion is going to make certain that this is the case.

Your Old Dog
05-30-2010, 11:04 PM
How does that work? If the strapping is in the inner 2", which is where it belongs, I don't see how extra bar is going to hurt.


That be true but you see where they are now.

gnm109
05-31-2010, 12:04 AM
Are you sure it weighs that much? My former Mill Drill weighed 340 kg (660 lbs.) with the stand.

In any case, that hoist will do just fine lifting it. I moved my machine across the room with the one I have. Not to worry.


.

Black_Moons
05-31-2010, 12:14 AM
Make sure the nylon straps are kept off sharp corners.

Good point that others forgot to mention
Used a newspaper (an entire newspaper, idealy folded, ie like 1/4~1/2" thick) to pad sharp corners if you must lift by them.

ttok
06-04-2010, 07:58 PM
Mike -

I have a very similar bench knee mill purchased from Enco back in 1984. It does indeed weigh about 800 lbs. without the stand. It is NOT a mill-drill, and weighs more than one.

I placed my mill on a homemade steel table with an HF 2-ton engine lift with the boom in the 1-ton position. I also used the same type of strapping you propose to use. Be sure to lower the table on the knee to the lowest position so the center of gravity is low. My mill did not have a lifting hole - just put the straps under each side of the head. The head casting was smooth on mine and was not a threat to cutting the straps.

To move the machine across the floor, I picked it up about 6" and placed a cheap furniture dolly under it. Then I lowered it down so that only PART of the total weight was on the dolly. Then moved it across the floor to the front of its table - dolly, lift and machine. This prevented it from swinging.

The biggest problem for me was getting the bottom of the mill high enough to clear the top of the table! I had to snug up the chain fall and straps with the boom at the lowest position. This is also where the cheap furniture dolly came in handy. I put four short 4X4 blocks under the dolly before putting all the machine's weight on it. This gave sufficient extra height to allow the HF crane to lift it enough to clear the bottom of the table.

I pre-drilled the mounting holes in the table. The crane legs tend to get in the way of a straight frontal lift onto the table. After I got the mill entirely above the table top, I had to turn the mill to align the holes in base and table, using the mounting bolts to get it in the final position. The short chain fall on my crane helped here.

Good luck! I was plenty scared (a good thing) while doing the final lift, until the first mounting bolt was nutted loosely!

A.T.

boslab
06-05-2010, 12:11 AM
you dont lift off a bar, ever, put a bow shackle through the hole in the crane or a proper hook with lock finger, it dosent take much to bend the bar [which will get stuck in the hole if it deforms]
mark

MotorradMike
06-05-2010, 09:46 AM
you dont lift off a bar, ever, put a bow shackle through the hole in the crane or a proper hook with lock finger, it dosent take much to bend the bar [which will get stuck in the hole if it deforms]
mark

There are 7/8" hoisting holes cast into the mill in the column which I can't see any way to use except with a bar.

If I use a bow shackle the pin will go through the jib just like a bar right?

I'm not arguing, just trying to understand and lift it safely.