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View Full Version : Need a longish V-Block..anybody make them?



Mike Hunter
06-11-2010, 11:54 AM
Need a longish V-Block, Say 6-8 inches long, 3-4 inches width/height. Yes I know I can make one but looking for one pre made…time is money

Thanks

Mike

J. R. Williams
06-11-2010, 12:16 PM
Weld two sections of steel angle to flat bar stock.

JRW

Mike Hunter
06-11-2010, 12:23 PM
JR

Thanks, but I'm kinda looking for something with a little more precision and mass.

Mike

sidneyt
06-11-2010, 02:43 PM
Something like this:
http://www.shars.com/product_categories/search/?search=303-5226

or this:
http://www.shars.com/product_categories/search/?search=303-5225

Mcgyver
06-11-2010, 03:30 PM
....time is money

so is the good stuff in those sizes....Challenge Precision has what you need...... for a grand :eek:

http://www.challengeprecision.com/

darryl
06-11-2010, 10:26 PM
Put two together. This will take some time, but you would start with known good v blocks (hopefully) so you can eliminate the time you'd have to spend to build in the accuracy.

For what it's worth, here's how I'd do it- Chances are you won't be able to bolt them together without using up the existing holes. So- form a sheet metal shape which will fit into the recesses. This bent strip needs to be wide enough to extend into both blocks. When the blocks are placed together, this shape occupies both blocks, but doesn't block the through hole. You'll need two. Probably they will be triangular in shape, not rocket science just two bends in a strip of steel.

Anyway, you use some jb weld or pc-7 to gap fill and glue the blocks together, using a surface plate and another pair of v blocks to align them. These v blocks lay on their sides, with the v straddling the sides of the two blocks you're gluing together, one each side. Maybe need a bar clamp to press this sandwich together. Lay a piece of poly across the surface plate before you pile all this stuff onto it so you don't get epoxy on the surface plate. What works good for this is that peel-off backing that comes on things that you can peel and stick.

I could be already halfway done doing this in the time it has taken me to describe the idea.

Black_Moons
06-12-2010, 04:58 AM
Just buy a whole bunch of cast iron V blocks from a cheap place like KMStools
Then clamp a round or square peice ontop of them and bolt em all togethor with allthread rod.
http://www.kmstools.com/magnum-4-v-block-3167
(they also come in 3 and 6")

If you need uber precision, maybe give them a lick on the surface grinder after you are done bolting them?
I got 2 sets of these blocks and I can't really tell the diff beween the two sets (though they ARE stamped diffrently somewhere to indicate what block is from what set!) but then I havent really run a TDI on them, just stuck em side by side and looked.

PS: Mount square stock in mill at 45 degrees in your vise, side mill to a nice depth, V block is done.

John Stevenson
06-12-2010, 07:06 AM
Can you get the bottom block off a press, they come in long lengths but don't know how deep you want the vee.

I got a long length, about 3 - 4 feet off a lace machine many years ago, about 2 1/2" square with a deep machined vee in cast iron.

I keep cutting slices off as I need it for specials and jigs .

Circlip
06-12-2010, 07:46 AM
Yes I know I can make one but looking for one pre made…time is money


Never ceases to amaze how many say "Where can I get ----?" but don't give a location. :rolleyes:

Immediate quick answer is the bottom bar from a press brake, as Sir John says "Yes sir, how long would you like??"

Fine if there's one down the road in Crewe but, a bit of a bu**er in postage if you're located in Namibia.

Gizzza clue.

Regards Ian.:D

Mike Hunter
06-12-2010, 09:52 AM
All ..Thanks of the replies.

Circlip.... Updated my profile, thanks for noticing.

I picked up a couple a couple of the cheap CI V-Blocks from Shars, they are actually 8 inches wide, not long.

To make a short story long..ish. Years ago I built a fixture to hold barrels when I roll mark them, not the best fixture...basically cobbled together using a couple of V-blocks bolted to a steel plate. Always said I would eventually build a better fixture. To get a good mark, the barrel really needs to be square/ level to within +/- .002.

Anyway, had a barrel here, octagon, purchased from a well known barrel supplier; pre octagoned. Customer wanted to "save money", wo went that rout.

I had all the machining done, polished, ready for final marking & bluing. When I rolled the marking on only one side of the address came out. Really ticked me off, checked the barrel, one flat was not machined at a true 45 deg, more like 40deg.

Barrel is now scrap, And I will make another...because I need to get this gun out...

In the past 10 years that I've been doing this, I've never had this problem, esp on barrels that I octagon.

So I'm building another fixture so that I can level these barrels both front to rear and left/right.

Hope that makes sence.

V/r

Mike

Doozer
06-12-2010, 11:41 AM
Reid Tool has v blocks by the inch.
-Doozer