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View Full Version : Compound gib needed for a LeBlond Regal



jep24601
06-23-2010, 03:55 PM
Hi! I've just joined this forum after buying a 1948 LeBlond Regal 13x24 with a missing compound gib.

Does anyone have a gib to spare for a 1946 through late 50's Regal of any size (manual says all compounds are the same) so I can put this baby to use. I spoke to LeBlond and they have not sold one for 8 years and so only make them to order (and for quite a price) so I may have to make my own - can anyone prvide me with dimensions?

Rookie machinist
06-23-2010, 05:38 PM
You might try contacting plaza machinery http://www.plazamachinery.com/ He has alot of parts on hand and may have what you need.

Mcgyver
06-23-2010, 06:00 PM
I bet they wanted a bunch to make one - out of curiosity what did they say?

Making one is not that bad. There's a few threads here on it, easier if its straight than tapered but either way you get the starting dimensions by measure the space....a set of tapered feeler gauges is handy if its small. I use cast iron, its easy to work and is the appropriate bearing surface

jep24601
06-23-2010, 09:22 PM
I bet they wanted a bunch to make one - out of curiosity what did they say?
They said the price 8 years ago when they last sold one was $485.

I only paid $500 for this lathe with the missing compound gib and a binding crosslide and no chuck but I got to run it before buying it. It has an L00 spindle but I got a 3 jaw chuck and faceplate on Ebay. Fortunately the crosslide fix, which I was anticipating to be the bigger problem turned out to be an easy fix.

The salesman at Leblond was very helpful - told me that the lathe was sold to East Alton/Wood River Community High School in July 1948.

v860rich
06-23-2010, 11:13 PM
I have a 15" Regal I'm parting out which had the same gib you need. The problem is I sold it to a fellow who was going to adapt it to another brand of lathe.
If there's anything else you need, let me know.

THANX RICH

People say I'm getting crankier as I get older. That's not it. I just find I enjoy annoying people a lot more now. Especially younger people!!!

doctor demo
06-24-2010, 12:28 AM
I have a 15" Regal I'm parting out
If there's anything else you need, let me know.
THANX RICH

What do You have left?

Steve

Black_Moons
06-24-2010, 12:48 AM
In the meantime, a riser block could allow you to bolt a toolpost directly to the cross slide... :)

Afaik, some people mod thier lathes that way when converting it to CNC.

jep24601
06-24-2010, 09:50 AM
In the meantime, a riser block could allow you to bolt a toolpost directly to the cross slide... :)

Afaik, some people mod thier lathes that way when converting it to CNC.
Yes, that's a good idea for the initial projects I have for this machine. I have had a 6' Atlas for a number of years and I got into some projects that were too big for it.

Mcgyver
06-24-2010, 10:24 AM
They said the price 8 years ago when they last sold one was $485.


wow. thanks. makes me feel good being so frugal and making stuff myself :D

is it a tapered gib or straight?

jep24601
06-24-2010, 08:04 PM
wow. thanks. makes me feel good being so frugal and making stuff myself :D

is it a tapered gib or straight?

Tapered. Looks like it might be tricky to hold.

Mcgyver
06-24-2010, 08:16 PM
the trick is (well there may be many, but the one i know about) is to use the part it drops into as a fixture.

1) starting with a rectangular prism of cast iron. roughly mill the first angle - tilt the head or use an adjustable angle place and leapfrog clamping.
2) file and scrape for a prefect fit in I guess what you'd call the stationary part of the dovetail (the part that has the taper to it), Now you've got 2 sides done
3) mount the stationary part of the compound on the mill and clamp with machinist clamps and all manner of implements the gib into its corner
4) run an endmill across the top, three sides done.
5) With a dovetail cutter of the right angle, rough mill the 4th side. You won't get right to the bottom and you'll have to leap from your clamps, no biggy, file any ridge off after
6) scrape in the fourth side with the dovetail assembly in situ
7) Figure out how to mount for drilling whatever screws are needed and voila, you're done

v860rich
06-24-2010, 11:28 PM
What do You have left?

Steve

Most of the headstock, minus a couple gears, is still there. The gears that are left look real good.
QC gear box, feed rod, compound, and quadrant are gone.
I have a nice chip pan, apron, lead screw. Also have carriage, tailstock, bed, legs, most of the heavy stuff is still here.

THANX RICH

People say I'm getting crankier as I get older. That's not it. I just find I enjoy annoying people a lot more now. Especially younger people!!!

v860rich
06-24-2010, 11:34 PM
Here is the page from the manual that kinda shows the gib.
(I hope this works)
http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr296/v860rich/th_LeBlondRegalManualpdf-AdobeReader.jpg (http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr296/v860rich/?action=view&current=LeBlondRegalManualpdf-AdobeReader.jpg)

THANX RICH

People say I'm getting crankier as I get older. That's not it. I just find I enjoy annoying people a lot more now. Especially younger people!!!

winchman
06-25-2010, 12:46 AM
Would it be possible to use a straight gib, and cut the dovetail at an angle on the side where the gib goes?