PDA

View Full Version : trouble removing tapered shank from tapping head



DaHui
08-01-2010, 02:44 AM
I have a tapmatic 50x tapping head and I'm trying to remove the jt33 mount from the head...but it won't budge. I made a drift but it just won't move and I can't find any secondary mechanism that would hold the taper. I have a drill chuck with a split locking collar but I can't see anything like that on the tapmatic. Any thoughts?

Dawai
08-01-2010, 04:04 AM
Brass hammer.. something about the harmonics?? or? it makes tapered drills turn loose, harley Davidson flywheel tapers..

Don't beat, just tap. The ringing does the work.

Ian B
08-01-2010, 07:33 AM
The drift; is there a hole through the back of the tapping head, allowing you to hit the end of the jt33 taper?

If there is, could you tap the hole, screw a grease nipple in and use a high pressure grease gun to push the two parts apart?

If there's no hole and you don't mind sacrificing the taper shank (which'll be worth a lot less than the tapping head), cut most of the shank off, drill & tap it for a grease nipple that way.

Ian

Dawai
08-01-2010, 08:36 AM
My tapamatic.. is just a plain old morse taper in a KWik switch 200 taper adapter.. I use a drift and brass mallet to ping and ring it.

I could use a cheap source for the rubber collets.. mine is 00-1/4? taps.. smaller unit.. Any suggestions?

TGTool
08-01-2010, 09:14 AM
It sounds like you need the official drill chuck removal wedges. This is McMaster Carr's listing at the bottom of the page since MSC isn't up this morning.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wedges/=87pnbg

Boucher
08-01-2010, 10:00 AM
I struggled with this problem on a large drill chuck. On a tapping head there is probably not a hole from the front or a place to make one. Drill and tap the end of the shank to accept a good size bolt like 1/2" put a short section of pipe over the shank bearing on the back ot the tapping head then install a large washer on the bolt over the end of the pipe making like a bearing puller. You will be surprised how easy it comes off.

RancherBill
08-01-2010, 11:48 AM
This is a more direct link to the good info that TGTool posted
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-removal-wedges/=87rmh4

Does anybody have the measurements on the wedges?

I have often thought they would be a good thing to make as a small project. They would be handy to have already made on the day that the &^%() chuck won't come off. Those days it is better to have a plan B ready, instead of using increasingly bigger hammers and torches, as I lose patience. :eek:

Black_Moons
08-01-2010, 12:54 PM
I think the wedges are rather.. hardened and ground. At least, I hope they are hardened. Great project if you got a surface grinder... Maybe millable and then hardenable.. but I think such thin objects might warp a bit.

TGTool
08-01-2010, 01:28 PM
I think the wedges are rather.. hardened and ground. At least, I hope they are hardened. Great project if you got a surface grinder... Maybe millable and then hardenable.. but I think such thin objects might warp a bit.

Yes, they're hardened but not ground. Commercial ones are often just stamped - i.e. smack the pi$$ out of one end to thin down the original material. I'd think milling off then smoothing would be entirely sufficient and case hardening would do if that's an option in your shop. Warpage shouldn't be a big deal. Even if not exactly flat the wedging action will work satisfactorily.

DaHui
08-01-2010, 09:44 PM
Er I meant to say I made a wedge. One big one instead of two smaller ones. I might try drilling out the end of the adapter but it's only MT2 and I'd like to do it non destructively if possible. I don't own a brass hammer. Anything I should know if I make one?

Your Old Dog
08-01-2010, 11:13 PM
Anything I should know if I make one?

Yea, it needn't be a 10 pounder !! Most projects my brass hammer gets used on are delecate projects. I made a 1" diameter brass knocker that has no handle. I use it for lining things up and hold it loosely in the hand.

dp
08-02-2010, 12:55 AM
I have a tapmatic 50x tapping head and I'm trying to remove the jt33 mount from the head...but it won't budge. I made a drift but it just won't move and I can't find any secondary mechanism that would hold the taper. I have a drill chuck with a split locking collar but I can't see anything like that on the tapmatic. Any thoughts?

Here's my solution. I used a pickle fork and a pin in the hole I'd drilled to drive the pieces apart (self-documenting image :) ):

http://thevirtualbarandgrill.com/machinery/2mtjt3arbor.jpg

Arcane
08-02-2010, 04:15 AM
I think I am going to either turn straight and add threads to the very end of the taper or else drill and tap internal threads to any taper I use in the future, before I put it into service, just to make removal a little easier.

Fasttrack
08-02-2010, 09:44 AM
Before you get carried away with a BFH, go get a can of compressed air for dusting keyboards (the stuff with refigerant). Hold the can upside down and freeze the taper. I'm not kidding - it works!

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=41585&highlight=stuck+tapers

Dave P.
08-02-2010, 09:49 AM
Before you get too crazy trying to get the taper out....
I bought a used head at auction and it was threaded!!
Looked just like the head I had with a taper, might be
something to think about.
Dave P.

DaHui
08-14-2010, 12:32 PM
I tried a few things but in the end I had to use DP's cross drill method, a home made pickle fork, a brass hammer, under a full moon, just after midnight to get that thing unstuck. It must have been on there for years but, the taper itself (yes it was tapered :) looked perfect.

Anyone need an MT2/JT33 arbor with a "removal hole?" Tell you what, I'll even throw in the 1/4" dowel pin.

I didn't try freezing but that seems like a good idea as well. Every once in a while I wish I had some LN2 sitting around.

Thanks for the help!