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Toolcat
08-18-2010, 11:50 PM
Cincinnati #3 mill. Been on and off this for some time. It is finally pretty much finished and ready to make some chips. :) Here are pics of it along the way in reverse order.

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_1090.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_1087.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_1085.JPG

Toolcat
08-18-2010, 11:51 PM
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_0906.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_0912.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_0921.JPG

Toolcat
08-18-2010, 11:52 PM
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_1096.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_1099.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_0914.JPG

Toolcat
08-18-2010, 11:53 PM
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/IMG_0962.JPG

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC5062.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC5057.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC5058.jpg

Toolcat
08-18-2010, 11:53 PM
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC4860.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC4862.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/_DSC4861.jpg

doctor demo
08-19-2010, 01:52 AM
Steve, Nice looking Cinci and everything else pictured !
Can I send You My #5 horiz. for a quick face lift?

Steve

AlphaGeek
08-19-2010, 02:51 AM
Absolutely gorgeous. I'm filled with tool lust. And not a little envy for folks who have the opportunity to restore masterpieces like that one.

Nice job. I want one now. :)

-AG

Elninio
08-19-2010, 03:27 AM
I'd like to have a 1:2 miniature scale version of it, for hobby.

Black Forest
08-19-2010, 06:05 AM
You are done, but one thing that can save you time when you paint something with hoses, wires or small shafts is to use tinfoil around the items and just tape the ends to get a good line. The tinfoil comes off easy and doesn't matter how long you leave it on, it comes off the same, not like tape.

Davo J
08-19-2010, 06:32 AM
There is a bloke on PM with the same machines as your have.:D
Some nice machines you have there.
I see you did some mechanical work on it. Were all the ways in good condition or did you have them rescraped or ground.

Dave

Michael Edwards
08-19-2010, 08:35 AM
Wow, sweet indeed. I think I need a cigarette after viewing those pics… and I don’t smoke. :D


ME

wierdscience
08-19-2010, 08:38 AM
Good job on the mill,how many HP on that beast?

hornluv
08-19-2010, 09:56 AM
Wow, sweet indeed. I think I need a cigarette after viewing those pics… and I don’t smoke. :D

I was thinking the same thing. That's just plain sexy. To quote Mike Meyers from Wayne's World, "Schwing!"

Black Forest
08-19-2010, 10:02 AM
I had to look again at the name of the original poster. I saw how clean that shop is and thought it must be Sir John's shop! That is a seriously clean shop. What is that white material on the floor?

gwilson
08-19-2010, 10:39 AM
Those are beautiful machines!!! I got my HLVH looking like those,but I am so creaky it is hard to do anymore. Love the Monarch,and the mill too,for that matter.

Mcgyver
08-19-2010, 10:43 AM
now thats a real mill, it'd eat bports for breakfast. how many hp?

Toolcat
08-20-2010, 01:01 AM
Thanks everyone. :)



I see you did some mechanical work on it. Were all the ways in good condition or did you have them rescraped or ground.
Dave

The drive box had problems. Someone must have crashed into something. There is a coupler that connects the end of the Y axis lead screw to the drive that had been replaced with an aluminum one that was above to fail. Also the portion of the casting that bolts to the underside of the saddle that holds the Y axis nut had a corner busted off. The casting holding the lead screw must have loosened, got cocked and then someone forced it and broke things. I replaced all of the bearings in the external drive box and the box under the saddle. Concerning the ways, I can measure the thickness of the Y axis square bed with a mic and there is .0005" wear in the middle. Someone before me went through and added turcite and scraped the ways (could have been 30 years ago) I only replaced the turcite on some of the gibs and scraped them. The end of the Z axis where the handle fits was so worn the handle was sloppy. I turned the end of the lead screw and made a sleeve to drive on it to get the handle to fit again. The male/female mating notches for all three handles were worn and would slip off when trying to crank them. I just used a file on them to square them up and that worked. The rod that attache to the handle for the rapid had a key way slot in it that was wiped out. I made a new rod for that. Oh yea.. and the Y axis lead screw was bent. Not at the end where the handle is but on the threads. I set it up in the lathe with an indicator and used the dro on the lathe with a chunk of metal bolted to the cross-slide to use as a pusher. After three hours of chasing the bend around I finally got it straight.
Motor is 10hp In one of the manuals it says how much oil these things hold. I can't find the info now but it is like 17 gallons in the column and 5 gallons in the knee. I drained the column and rinsed with oil and the knee I drained and rinsed with mineral spirits numerous times, wiping out between rinses. Also squirted mineral spirits through the oil lines to be sure they were opened. I have purchased several manuals for it. The two most helpful are:
"Cincinnati Service/Parts M-786" and "Cincinnati M-1790/1912 Parts/Service"



You are done, but one thing that can save you time when you paint something with hoses, wires or small shafts is to use tinfoil around the items and just tape the ends to get a good line. The tinfoil comes off easy and doesn't matter how long you leave it on, it comes off the same, not like tape.
Good idea on the use of the tinfoil. I'll remember that one. I have that shaper to do next and will use this tip. :D



There is a bloke on PM with the same machines as your have.:D

I saw that post on PM too. What a dork he is when he could have posted them on the best forum like I did. http://www.engravingforum.com/images/smilies/top%20smiles/lol%5B1%5D.gif


What is that white material on the floor?
It is 4x8 sheets of fiberglass.

boslab
08-20-2010, 02:09 AM
You are done, but one thing that can save you time when you paint something with hoses, wires or small shafts is to use tinfoil around the items and just tape the ends to get a good line. The tinfoil comes off easy and doesn't matter how long you leave it on, it comes off the same, not like tape.
Brilliant suggestion, i like it.
As far as i,m concerned the restoration is the best i've seen for a long time, the thing looks georgous, i'm also biased as i think the Cinni is the best miller in the world, bar none, perfect balance between strength, brute strength, even more steroid induced strength and stunningly accurate to boot stuff deckel

gda
08-20-2010, 08:11 AM
Nice job for sure. Forget the machine, I'm jealous of the space.

Dale Lusby
08-20-2010, 12:07 PM
I'd love to hear more about the paint and process used for prep. Did you just sand down the original paint and leave the filler in tact? If you added filler what kind did you use? Also what paint did you use and color as well. Absolutely beautiful job.
Dale

Toolcat
08-20-2010, 08:00 PM
Thank you boslab and gda :)

Dale, I just sanded the paint that was there. With the Monarch lathe I took the paint and filler off using a wire brush on a grinder. That is not the way to do it. It makes a lot of extra work to fill the rough casting. It is easier to just knock the loose paint off and sand it to make sure the filler and paint will stick, then fill the low spots, sand smooth. Then prime and paint.
Filler: 3M bondo Glazing & Spot putty
Primer: Rust-Oleum Automobile Primer
Paint: Krylon Engin Color, Resists heat to 300F, Color #1611 Universal Gray

Using a "rattle can" makes life easy when later you drop something and damage the paint. Just refill if needed, prime and paint the spot.

Dale Lusby
08-28-2010, 11:56 AM
Thank you boslab and gda :)

Dale, I just sanded the paint that was there. With the Monarch lathe I took the paint and filler off using a wire brush on a grinder. That is not the way to do it. It makes a lot of extra work to fill the rough casting.

Funny, that's exactly why I asked. I'm restoring a #4HP horizontal Cincinnati and started with the wire wheel/grinder but with all the black filler used it makes a huge mess and as huge a pain to re-fill. I'll be giving your strategy a go. It's an inspiration to see your mill finished.

Toolcat
04-21-2011, 09:33 PM
...deleted..

Posted in my wrong old thread. Sorry about that. I'll find my old shaper thread and repost there. Here it is: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?p=660432#post660432