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audrey
12-05-2003, 10:53 AM
Guys would this be Feasable? A large 10 inch carbide wood saw blade on a arbour. Drill a clearance hole close to the final cut on a block that would become a v block. Make a cut to the hole turn it around and cut again. Do you think this i+s a quick way of making a vblock? Then finish with a end mill. Also whatss the best way of holding it rigidly. i HAVE A 1941 bRIDGEPORT mILL. tHANX aUDREY

ARFF79
12-05-2003, 11:11 AM
Audrey: You do not say how big a V block you are making. I have used a carbide wood saw blade for similar jobs, mostly in Aluminum, but some in mild steel. The smaller the blade the more ridged the set-up,I have only used the smaller saw blades for steel. The ones for those small trimm saws that are around 4&1/2 inches with a 5/8" hole on a standard arbor. I am not sure if a 10 inch blade would have enough thickness to keep it from wriggling in the cut. Can you rough it out on a band saw first?

Dr. Rob
12-05-2003, 11:21 AM
Ten inch blade...that's at least four inches on the radius, or in the vee rather. Sounds like a pretty big v-block.

Well first off, there is nothing wrong with those carbide wood saw things. I've used them successfully m'self. They are rather flimsy, though- anything other than a perfect setup will have it wobbling and flexing all over. But cut they do, and cheap they are.

What material are you thinking of cutting?

If this a steel vee block, as big as it sounds, I wonder if it isn't easier to start with a beefy and thoughfully put together welded fabrication, and mill that to your needed accuracy instead.

wierdscience
12-05-2003, 10:58 PM
The trick with the wood blade thing is to get an ATB(alternate top bevel) blade with many teeth,this will cut reasonably smooth,but take it easy because it will require power.

darryl
12-06-2003, 01:07 AM
It scares me to think of cutting steel with that blade, aluminum would be ok. I can't say from experience though, I've never been brave enough to try cutting steel with a wood blade, especially at the depth that blade can go. As others have said, rough cut the waste piece from the block in a bandsaw, then finish mill the block. You'll need to finish mill it anyway, to get good, clean surfaces. The hole at the bottom of the vee is a good idea, take care to drill it accurately, and use the bottom side of the block as the reference (the side that's down as you drill) when clamping it in the mill vise, this side to the fixed jaw. That way the hole has the best chance of being aligned with the vee when the job is done. You could actually pass a rod through the hole as an aid in aligning the block in the vise. Pull the rod before machining. Of course, the vise needs to be aligned on the mill table before this.

Rich Carlstedt
12-06-2003, 02:09 AM
Audrey
I used a 7 inch carbide on my 1943 BP...sounds like you are doing me one better !

Go for it, and
Use stabiliser washers !

Rich Carlstedt
12-06-2003, 02:09 AM
And NO Climb Milling !

Paul Gauthier
12-06-2003, 10:03 AM
Drill your hole as you said and then rough the "V" with a bandsaw, faster and easier, with two cuts you will have the "V" roughed out and need just some finish cuts with an endmill.

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Paul G.

JCHannum
12-06-2003, 11:48 AM
I agree that a bandsaw may be a better approach. Also possibly a laser, waterjet, EDM, ECM or weldment.
But, if they do not have a bandsaw or the other options available, now what?
You gotta run what you brung, and if what you brung is an old Bridgeport, the smallest, highest tooth, count carbide woodsaw may be the best option.
It is certainly worth a try. Use appropriate personal protection, watch the peripheral speed, stand back and take your time. Worst that can happen is destruction of a carbide W/S blade.
They do make large diameter HSS saw blades, like big slitting saws. I have some 8" floating around here somewhere.