Cleaning Brass Gauze Hydraulic Strainer

[wbleeker]

I have my Elliot surface grinder stripped down, today I took the top off the hydraulic tank on the end of the suction pipe there is a brass gauze strainer, it appears to be made with the gauze just rolled up and the ends soldered on, it is very fine gauze.How do I get it clean? Its soaking in kerosene at the moment, I am not sure what was in the oil tank with the oil it looked milky like coolant but was also very thick, coagulated even, maybe slightly acidic all the copper and brass pipework is as clean and shiny as new stuff.
Will

[914Wilhelm]

Starting fluid ether is a fairly potent solvent. If the stuff has turned into shellac a "Draino" solution (lye) can get rid of it as well. Just don't get lye solution in your eyes or on your skin, it will saponify the tissue. Also note if your dissolving Draino in water it can get hot enough to boil and erupt from the container. Wear gloves and goggles and be careful!

[whitis]

Shower massager works well to "pressure wash" pleated "paper" filters without slicing them to shreds. Also, reversing the flow direction helps remove gunk that couldn't make it through the pores. I have done similar to fine stainless steel mesh.

[Black_Moons]

Before you spend $5 dollars in chemicals and 15+ mins of your time, Are you sure its not just a $2 part that you should be buying in 10 packs as maintence items?

[oldtiffie]

Emulsification?

Will,

its an odds-on bet that that filter is "rated" at so many wires or spacers per inch (lineal or by area).

Your manual/parts list combo should tell what it is.

Often-times where there are fine clearances in a hydraulic system there will both a coarse (strainer) and fine(r) (filter).

If possible, I'd replace it/both with new.

Its also a fair bet that if you have a coolant system that the coolant has corrupted the hydraulic fluid - ie it has emulsified (with) the oil - same as a car engine or other oil if water/fluid gets into it.

If it were me, I'd completely clean/sterilise that tank and run a series of filtering runs through an external filter/strainer.

High humidity and cold weather can cause water ingress by condensation.

It is a good idea to leave a good magnet in the base of the oil and coolant tanks. Having a heater in the oil tank at least is a good idea as the oil will be warm and "ready to go" with the right viscosity. It also reduced condensation in the tank.

Tread your own path.

[wbleeker]

I have been looking around since i posted this and one of the pages I have found even suggests that a suction strainer isn't as good an idea as pressure side filters, as the slightest amount of restriction can lead to pump cavitation and the resultant slow uneven movement. I will ring the local hydraulic place tomorrow and make enquiries, the strainer only has a one inch BSP thread on the end so it shouldn't be too hard to find one, maybe even with a bit coarser gauze. I am not too sure about putting filters in the pressure side, the relief valves are only set at 200 PSI and the filter restriction might set them off? Or would I be better off putting a filter in the return line?
Will

[Ian B]

Will,

I'd also say go for either a pressure line or return line filter. This will let you install a finer filter, as the system will then have sufficient pressure to overcome the restriction of the filter. See http://www.insidersecretstohydraulic...condition.html

Do you know the maximum pressure of the hydraulic system? There's most likely a relief valve in there somewhere. Knowing this pressure will let you find the right rating filter housing.

+1 for a magnet in the tank - if you can, locate it so that the returning stream flows over it. I use a 1" x 1" neodymium magnet. As this is a surface grinder, most of what you'll be grinding will be ferrous, and a magnet will collect a lot of the really fine stuff.

Ian

[Ian B]

Duuhhh, just saw where you wrote that the RV is set to 200psi. That seems awfully low - does the manual give a figure for what it should be?
Ian

[wbleeker]

ian the manual says 200 psi
Will

[.RC.]

I use a 1" x 1" neodymium magnet. As this is a surface grinder, most of what you'll be grinding will be ferrous, and a magnet will collect a lot of the really fine stuff.

Ian

But no grinding grit should ever get into the hydraulic system....

[Ian B]

Ringer,

You're completely correct. It's just that grinding dust seems to get everywhere, and might get in through breather vents on the tank. In theory, it's almost a closed system, so why is a filter needed in the first place?

Ian

[moe1942]

Ultra sonic cleaner..

[wierdscience]

Will,is this or a similar product availible where your at?

http://berrymanproducts.com/ProductsInfo/PartsCleaners.aspx

I've used it to clean air compressor spun brass filters,just dunk it,let soak for a couple hours and rinse away the goo with water.

[914Wilhelm]

The active ingredient for chem dip, in prior post, is methylene chloride, ie paint stripper. I don't need to buy that as I've got some on the shelf. As well as starting fluid and Draino.

[wbleeker]

I am leaning towards leaving the strainer off, but I do have some paint stripper so I will give that a try and if the oil dosen't flow through freely i will leave it off. As the machine has a coolant system there shouldn't be any problems with dust, and the hydraulic oil tank is baffled with the return oil going into its own compartment before it gets to the suction side, i will put a big magnet into the return tank and check it after a bit of use.
Will