View Full Version : Emcomat7

12-06-2003, 05:12 PM
Does anyone know where I can find a used Emcomat7 for sale?

12-07-2003, 01:33 AM
I have one but it is not for sale. They are very hard to come by - I had to wait for someone to die to get mine (no, really). You might have better luck finding a Maximat 11 - these have quick changed gear boxes and are bigger machines and hence more useful.

12-07-2003, 02:10 AM
The book I have on building my Pennsy a3 locomotive, shows him using his emcomat 7.
He describes, "Ok, feed the bit in .02, we take a light cut here, blah blah blah..
And IM left wondering, is this guy crazy? Light cut? On the same machining step, mine chatters with a .01 cut. Either he is using leaded steel, or his emco is just that much better than my chinese lathe.

12-07-2003, 02:21 AM
Chattering with a .010 cut? What size is your lathe? Have you looked at all of the usual suspects like tight gibs, etc?

12-07-2003, 03:27 AM
This isn't completely applicable, but I just now tried a cut using my milling attachment on my SB9. I cut a profile cut .5" by .25" in mild steel and had no problem. Cutting .010 should be a piece of cake. Something is wrong with the setup or adjustments. As said by Joel, check the gibs. Tighten them for the cut but don't leave them that tight when you have to move the cross slide or compound except for the cut. It will greatly increase the wear. I get lazy a lot of the time and force the carriage/cross slide/compound against the tight jibs and this little voice tells me "you really want to learn how to scrape the ways?" Tighten when needed and loosen after.

With a roughing cut I can take around .05 as long as the drive belt is tight. Belt slip becomes the problem, not chatter. How far is the work protruding from the chuck?

G.A. Ewen
12-07-2003, 02:53 PM
Not exactly what you are looking for but have a look.


12-07-2003, 06:32 PM
Hi Gus,

I have to say that Thrud is probably right on this one.

I have been personally involved in three sales of hobby sized Emcos. The first one (Maximat V7) was sold because the owner who had it went to a nursing home. The second one (Maximat V10P) was sold because of the death of the owner (who had received it earlier from his dying friend). The third sale (another Maximat V7) I was involved in was once again because the owner was forced into a nursing home.

It was interesting to note that all the owners of these machines were accomplished mechanical engineers (with machine shop experience) who knew exactly what to look for when buying a machine tool and the lathes/mills were self-purchased as retirement gifts for themselves. When I spoke with their families, all of them mentioned that the buyers had brought the BEST available when the purchase was made.

Some would disagree but I consider that an Emco lathe/mill in good shape warrants a higher price than what they do sell for currently...which is usually a great big pile of money. I also note that the Chinese will tend to attempt to copy a well thought of product so they can coast on its reputation. Being that they chose the Emco lathe as the design to mimic for their poorly executed 9x20 knockoff says alot.

What you do have going for you is that the Emco machines can turn up anywhere since they are portable and sold all over the country. Unlike chasing iron in the industrial areas in the USA, the Emco that you are searching for could easily be in the house next door as in the next state. The problem is finding that needle in the haystack. Have you done any SERIOUS searching in your own neck of the woods? I would suggest running some WANTED adds and letting the various metalworking clubs in your area know that you want $seriously$ one. I would not place much faith in finding one on an auction. This caliber of machine usually never makes the auction setting since a well connected acquaintance will scoop it up first.

As for finding one Gus, I can only recommend that you do as I did...which is look, look, look and let EVERYONE know that you are looking for one. You will eventually come across one and I will then say, pay whatever the seller wants. If you do not, someone else definitely will (like me ;< ) ).

Good luck with the Hunt!


12-07-2003, 07:12 PM
I've been told how to fix it, I still havent gotten around to doing it.

It is a chinese 7x14 lathe. It only chatters on a .010 cut when I am facing, like my train wheels, facing a 3.25" disk.

I've decided to fix the problem, I am preparing to buy a used 9" South Bend.

I never got it to chatter when turning. I must admit, I am over extending this lathe for the job I am doing with it.
I'm not going to put any more money into this lathe to make it more rigid.

12-07-2003, 08:50 PM

I take heavy cuts in stainless with carbide inserts on my Maximat 7 all the time - the chips come off white hot and turn blue on the ground...eventually. Hell, I can peel Titainium off like butter as well (the lower grade alloys anyway). I use a 3-1/2" and 6-1/4" chuck most of the time.

The machine is not a toy, It has huge spindle bearings and is built like a tank. The bed is cross braced and extremely stiff. It has one failing - no quick change gear box. But even that can be argued by the purest as interfering with good precision.

12-07-2003, 10:47 PM
Gus: I have one too and it may be for sale early next year (see my Super 11 horror story post). The Maximat 7 blows away other small machines such as the Prazi and others. The sales price of a used machine will probably start to reflect this. The downside of the Maximat 7 is that support and parts are almost gone but as Thrud says, the thing is built like a tank and you can make just about anything that breaks.

If you find one with Emco specifics like the steady and follower rests, grab it. Be sure to run it and check out all gears (a good idea on any gearhead).

Thrud: I think one would have to be crazy to sell a good condition Maximat 7 for less than several $k for the lathe alone. You just can't replace it (ok, Schaublin, Levin, Big $$). Wadda you think ?


12-07-2003, 11:23 PM
can a southbend do the same thing?

12-07-2003, 11:32 PM
Thrud: What kind of horsepower motor are you running on that thing ? I seem to recall you running 6,000 rpm on some stuff (must have been the stainless http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif ).

12-07-2003, 11:58 PM
A South Bend can do any thing you want.

12-08-2003, 01:14 AM

12-08-2003, 01:51 AM
Uhmmm...sounds like this could get interesting. Gentlemen...start your lathes...let the South Bend vs. Emco competition begin! ;< )

For my contribution, I will say that I have had several South Bend and Emco lathes of similar sizes. Both brands were tested under challenging conditions similar to those that Thrud is discussing.

Wanna guess which brand of lathe was finally sold because it was found to be lacking compared to the other? Hint: It was made in South Bend, IN.

Let the chips fly where they will! ;< )

12-08-2003, 02:09 AM

First I say that my SB9 is mounted on a 48" chunk of channel iron, and then on a table that will hold a loaded cement truck. As I said, in another thread, last night I ran a cut with my milling attachement on the SB9 in steel .5" by .25" in one pass. No chatter. No problems.

Let the games begin!

12-08-2003, 11:51 AM
I'll be inheriting a SB9 Model A with long 52" bed sometime next year. The SB is a very good machine but the Maximat 7 has a spindle of 65 to 2800 rpm at the flick of 2 levers. Also, never need to worry about the tapered roller headstock. The bed is hardened also which doesn't hurt matters.

The babbitt or cast iron bearings on the SB can give you near(er) zero TIR if you need it. Flat belt drive is inexpensive insurance against bad things.

When it comes to "community" support however, guess one wins hands down ... SB.


12-08-2003, 11:52 AM
Thanks to everyone for all the helpful advice and imput. I will take the advice of putting a wanted ad in the local paper. You never know...
What a great bunch of people you all are!

12-08-2003, 01:33 PM
Yep Den,

The biggest limitation of the SB is the spindle rpms. Cast iron bearings shouldn't be run over 1000 rpm. In the standard configuration the maximum spindle rpm is 658. Kinda slow for small parts but I get by http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

12-08-2003, 02:49 PM
If I go to look at a used southbend, is there an easy way to check out those bearings in the head stock? Also, are new ones cheap to come by?

12-08-2003, 04:57 PM
If it spins smoothly and has zero play the bearings should be alright. Anything else and there is a problem. Some end play is OK as that may be adjusted with the collar on the left end of the spindle. Make sure to look inside the spindle to see if the taper is damaged/scratched. If so pass it up. Worn spindle bearings on a SB9 can be repaired but it is a chore. If the bearings are damaged in most cases so will be the spindle. Some SB9s had hardened spindles but that was an extra cost option and most do not. Repair can be accomplished by plasma spraying to build up the metal and then reboring. A new spindle will probably have to be bought or made.

Note that making a spindle for an SB9 is beyond most people's capability as they are precision ground to a microinch finish.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-08-2003).]

Spin Doctor
12-08-2003, 06:00 PM
South Bend vs. Emco? Personally I'll take a Hardinge any day of the week provided I can find one at a reasonable price. Even if the bed is wore out I can fix that.

12-08-2003, 06:47 PM
theres a used Hardinge HLV in the paper, but that thing is way too heavy and big for me to move.

12-09-2003, 04:44 PM
BillH: Add in the cost of moving and it may still be a good buy. and maybe its time to call in some favors. Unless its in bad shape, you will have a hard time finding a better machine.

12-10-2003, 03:24 AM

I was offered $5,000 (cdn) for mine by a local machinery dealer - its a keeper.

The stock motor was 1/2 hp single ph 120V. I have a 2Hp 3Ph 240V & VFD for it and can run to 6,000 max with two of my chucks, 3,000 with the 4 jaw. Even if you get the SB, you will want to keep the Emco for the accurate stuff and tiny stuff that requires the high rpms. Besides then you can do a side by side comparison and tell Evan SB's really are pigs. (that should tick him off http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif)

Spin Doc
Yeah, I almost bought a new HLV-DR. Beautiful machine - even in ****ty grey. 2900 lbs. of Ohhh - momma! Same size lathe (7x18) as the Maximat 7, BTW. Just...real better.

12-10-2003, 12:19 PM
Yeah, Thrud. The SB just isn't that good for small stuff http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Sort of like this. Oh wait, I made this on the SB...


12-10-2003, 12:59 PM
Thrud: Do you have the mill on yours ?

Evan: Where'd you get the big penny http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif Don't let Thrud get your SB down. I'd hate to have a chuck take off at 6,000 rpm http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif


12-10-2003, 02:26 PM
Gee Thrud, that comment about SOuth Bends tic'd me off too.
I should lock you into a room, and force you to use my chinese 7x14 lathe for a few months to pass the time. Im willing to bet that South Bend lathe will look like a blessing from god to you http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif .

[This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-10-2003).]

12-10-2003, 03:56 PM
The US penny is larger in Canada due to the exchange rate.


I make these on my 13" Sheldon. Photo was taken in Ohio, so penny is normal size.
It is easier to make small on big than tuther way around.

12-10-2003, 04:15 PM

I thought it was against the law to make your own pennies? Maybe you shouldn't broadcast that.

Nice job, 'though. Looks better than the real thing! ;-)


12-11-2003, 02:21 AM
Geeze you guys, I was only pulling Evans leg, relax! Hell, I almost bought four of them - good thing I found a real lathe and didn't need all those spare parts - just kidding! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif


Yep, it has the original 4 speed millhead on the heavy column. I have the flatbed model in putrid blue hammerlin paint.

05-08-2006, 05:48 PM
Good day Gentleman, I'm new to this club, just got hold of a EMCOMAT 7, and I would like to know if there are any picture's of this machine I could look at. plus can you still get spares. Thanks. Grumpygrandad:p

05-08-2006, 06:42 PM
Welcome to the "club" ! You can find Emco information and a few photos here:


Blue Ridge Machinery in WV has random parts still available. It will be hit or miss. The lathe is also called the Maximat 7. Nice little machine.

You might want to re-post your request if this old thread gets buried. Den

05-09-2006, 09:54 AM
Hi , Thank you for your reply, could you tell me if you can still get the stand alone base for this mill. Thanks Grumpygrandad

05-09-2006, 07:20 PM
I think the mill was offered complete as the FB2. The base was offered separately. It was $1595 in the 1994 Blue Ridge catalog. It would be just under twice that if still available. You might check with Tim at Blue Ridge.

05-12-2006, 03:41 AM
Thanks for your replies on the the mill, one might turn up, but at the moment it's working, . GRUMPYGRANDAD.

05-12-2006, 03:38 PM
will not post picture

05-14-2006, 03:35 PM
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/grumpy_grandad/CountyShow.jpg Well that did it, these are things I make, thats why I wanted the Emcomat mill machine. Grumpygrandad

Red Dog Forge
12-13-2012, 10:28 AM
I'm new to the page and thanks for letting me ask questions. I just purchased an Maximat 7. After about a week and a bit of take apart and clean it runs like a "well oiled machine" should. It was love at first sight. There are a couple of very small plastic gears that were broken, and in the box that I also purchased were two replacement plastic gears. The Machine is in 100% shape.. Where can I purchase new plastic gears for a Maximat 7 should anything ever happen to either of the new replacements.
Red Dog Forge

12-13-2012, 11:48 AM
Joint the EmcoV10lathe group on yahoo - that's the best place for support for the small Emco lathes.

The plastic gears are your fwd/rev timblers. You can either buy them at Blueridge Machinery for a mind-numbing pile of money, or buy stock nylon metric module 1 gears from Boston Gear or several other suppliers for about $10 each, then bore to suit the Emco Lathe mount. Don't replace them with metal gears - they are designed to shear if you do something bad (or if some fool has replaced your shear pin with a nail).