View Full Version : I bought a southbend!!!
12-13-2003, 05:14 PM
ITs in Really good shape, some parts of ways still have the decorative checkering, extremely small ridges, A really nice American made 3 jaw chuck, forgot the name of it, bunch of tooling, some of the changegears(not all http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif ) No wear on the leadscrew, all the gears look to be in Excellent shape, I did see one tooth missing off one of the back gears, does not affect operation from what I can tell, I also have the drive motor and drive assembly, not in picture.
I got it all for 475$ I need to clean it up, get rid of the surface rust.
THis lathe has been used by hobbyists, no factory work, atleast from seller said, and by the looks of it.
Oh yes, the SPindle is SMOOTH, not rough Lathe had lots of machine oil on it, so it's allways been well oiled from what I can tell.
Geez, feels good, the search is over.
[This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-13-2003).]
That looks real good Bill. It looks like you will need a flat belt for it. Instead of taking the spindle off get a belt prepared for gluing with a scarf joint. Make sure to ask what glue to use. The length will be whatever you measure after you have the rear drive set up with the lathe on a bench. Measure around any aligned pair of the pulleys from drive to headstock with the overcenter tensioning arm in the running position and the turnbuckle wound full close (shortest length). Belt should be 1" wide. Alignment of the drive assembly to the headstock is critical.
12-13-2003, 07:42 PM
[This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 03-19-2004).]
12-13-2003, 07:50 PM
Congratulations, a real steal-of-a-deal!
12-13-2003, 08:14 PM
Congratulations, keep us posted on your progress.
12-13-2003, 08:17 PM
Thanks, I am very excited, it's a dream come true to have an American made lathe. My Chinese 7x14 boat anchor was just a toy, now this is a machine.
Evan, It came with a belt, one with alligator clips. I'll have to look at the belt again, in passing itlooked like it was a rubber flat belt, perhaps it is leather. In any account, the belt looks a bit warned.
I'll look into the glued belt, also, need to get southbends book on how to run a lathe, I want to make sure I oil every single place that needs to be oiled, and that I use the right oil.
I will also need to get a better bench to mount it on, that one you see in the pic I think will be impossible to get the lathe leveled good. Like you suggested before Evan, Im going to find a big piece of channel iron or plate to bolt it to.
12-13-2003, 08:18 PM
looks like a keeper, for sure!
When you bolt it to the channel iron you then align it using pieces of feeler stock under the edges of the right foot castings. Left one is bolted down tight, alignment is done with right foot.
12-13-2003, 10:00 PM
Nice looking model C, Bill. Good luck with it!
12-13-2003, 10:19 PM
Looks good Bill. Let us know how it runs.
12-13-2003, 10:51 PM
Congratulations, Bill. It's nice to see a machine like this that has seen regular oiling and is still in good shape, right down to the paint !
12-14-2003, 12:09 AM
Congratulations, that's a nice looking lathe and it has what appears to be a nice size chuck on it. Isn't that old American made iron pretty?
12-14-2003, 03:31 AM
That's a steal. About the belts. There are lots of flat automotive belts that will work fine. I also think removing the spindle is easier than a brake job and well worth doing on a lathe so that you can flush the oil journals and make sure the oil wick that rides against the spindle isn't worn out. There are only two tricky things about the job and once you know about them they are a piece of cake. As I recall it is a tapered pin and a spring loaded oil wick in the spindle bore. Worth doing.
Just so you know, the complete set of SAE change gears numbers 17. That includes the stud gears, idlers and screw gears. That doesn't include any extras like a metric transposing gear.
12-14-2003, 04:25 AM
Im going to need to learn the tricks of removing the spindle soon, im looking to get a new belt pulley, since the one I got now as you can see is rusty and has a chipped tooth.
Also, I used a spreadsheet some one made to predict the manufacturing date on my lathe. This lathe apparently was made between february and march of 1941.
Yes, the chuck looks to be nice, its a 6" Union. However I do not have any outside jaws for it, and no key, tis a problem if I want to finish my wheels on this thing with that chuck.
Thanks for the comments. Evan, as you can see in the pic, it has a rather small gear on the leadscrew, I'd like to get the biggest one for the fine feed. I guess I will need to find a chart of all the gears and combinations. I atleast have 3 of them.
I guess my lathe bed is the shortest one southbend made. Perhaps that accounts for it not being warn out. It's plenty long for me though, I dont see myself turning long shafts to build any steam locomotives.
Keep track of the shims and the orientation when you remove the spindle. If you need parts see this guy (not a relative).
[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-14-2003).]
12-14-2003, 09:54 AM
for the chucks on my old SB, a 1/4" and a 3/8" ratchet fit the chuck tightening holes (two different size chucks of course). give it a shot and see if they fit.
and that IS a nice looking machine!
12-14-2003, 12:36 PM
Great idea Andy, I will try that.
I contacted a chuck house to see if they have any outside jaws for my union chuck. Hopefully if they do, they wont be too expensive.
12-14-2003, 02:50 PM
She's a beauty, Bill, and so YOUNG! Be gentle...
12-14-2003, 04:53 PM
I wouldn't worry at all about the rust on the spindle pulley. Once you get it running you'll apply a little emory paper and that will just be a memory. The chipped tooth might be annoying but it may or may not affect its operation. Of course you will only use that when you use the back gears. Probably someone used a prybar to hold the spindle when they were removing the chuck. I really like these old SB9 lathes. Be careful about these lathes. They often lead you to buy shapers and milling machines!
Be sure and look at that site Evan posted. You could get the quick change gearbox and leadscrew and turn your model C to an A. The bed length might cause you to extend the right mount, but you could do that and replace the Bull Gear, and still have spent less that I did in buying my SB9 model A.
[This message has been edited by SJorgensen (edited 12-14-2003).]
12-14-2003, 05:57 PM
I cleaned my lathe off a little bit more and found that there were more scrape marks beneath the crud http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif However, the saddle/apron is another story.
The cross slide is well warned, has a groove from the gibs, must of been used a lot. Im thinking this lathe might of been parted together. In any case, I need new half nuts for the lead screw, and im not sure how the gibs are setup on the saddle.
The apron side has nothing to hold it to the bed ways except for gravity, and the other side does have tiling bar that keeps that side on, im going to make a new topic and post pics.
[This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-14-2003).]
12-14-2003, 06:23 PM
Congratulations!!! Thats a lathe you can use and love for the rest of your life! If you are going to go with 3-C collets, I've got an extra collet gizmo,(the piece that goes into the spindle and holds the collet), You can have for the cost of postage.
Enjoy and good luck!
12-14-2003, 11:45 PM
Bill, a sugestion for belting is to use a serpinetine and run it on back side with V grooves up...1 1/8 serpinetine belts have many lenghts and all you have to do to use it is cut off 1 V
12-15-2003, 12:18 AM
tell you right now, My biggest problem is finding new Half nuts for my leadscrew.
I would rebuild them if I had another decent lathe on hand. I just got sniped on Ebay on a pair of used ones. I refuse to be put in such a situation as Ebay, not good for buyers.
I would have to bore out the stripped threads on the old half nuts on my Amazing, Unbelievable, super duper, Bending flexing Chinese 7x14 wonder of a boat anchor, and make a bronze bushing, thread it internally on the same boat anchor, then jbweld it onto the bored out half nuts and then take a big slitting saw to cut them apart on my micro mill...
Ah gee, I guess I gotta go look in the classifeds for some southbend parts.
12-15-2003, 12:36 AM
Alcova, I like the way you think, HMS50, thank you for the offer, I may take you up on it unless some one needs that part more than I do, I had no plans of using 3c collets.
12-15-2003, 01:21 AM
I think I'm the guy who "sniped" those half nuts. Sorry about that!! I was going to make them but the used ones on Ebay look pretty good and the price was right. I just bought a SB 9" myself.. it's in good shape. It came with a complete set of change gears but no thread dial. Good thing Machinst's Workshop had an article on making one.
If I can be of any assistance don't hesitate to ask. I have a nice full sized chart for setting up the change gears.. if you want one let me know.. a peace offering.
12-15-2003, 01:31 AM
AH it was you who sniped me, lol, but to be fair, I was about 3rd in line. I only hope no one snipes me on that cone pulley I am bidding, or I will flip out. Hey, if you have the List of all the change gears, stud gears, etc that would be a complete set, email me the list, that will bring peace http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif
Oh, and if you have that chart to setup the change gears on a digital format, such as a pdf, send that too. If not, no problem.
[This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-15-2003).]
12-15-2003, 01:54 AM
While they may be expensive, parts are available from Leblond for Southbend lathes.
I got a new compound nut for a heavy 10, and it really improved the play in the compound. Old one looked like sharp "V" threads, worn that way from Acme.
12-15-2003, 01:59 AM
FYI - Person on eBay selling plans and the gear to make your own SB Thread Dial.
12-15-2003, 10:39 AM
I don't have the chart on digital format and too big to fit in my scanner. Maybe I could try scanning 1/2 at a time. Do you have SB's "How to Run a Lathe".. I think the chart is in there.. good book and worth having.
What cone pulley do you need? The lathe I just bought was missing the horizontal counter shaft. I made one following the plans from the yahoo SB site. Made the 3 step cone pulley out of maple.. we'll see how it holds up.
Fred.. thanks for the heads up on eBay. Forty five dollars is not too bad for the gear and plans but I think I'll try making the thread dial follwing the article in Machinist's Workshop. After all.. that is what our machines are for. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif
12-15-2003, 01:01 PM
Dhammer, I am getting that book for Christmas.
Im glad to hear its in that book. The cone pulley is the one that goes on the lathe, with the back gear. Mine is gouged a little, and a tooth is missing from it.
[This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-15-2003).]
Isn't there a chart plate attached to the change gear cover? If not, I will take a picture of mine and post it. Also, How to Run a Lathe does have a readable image of the chart in it.
12-15-2003, 10:35 PM
i ve got a box full of sb 9 goodies -
no 1/2 nut though- if you let me know what bits you need i will have a look .
12-15-2003, 11:15 PM
Upon further inspection of my lathe and cone pulley, The tooth is not really missing, It was fixed by drilling 2 studs into it, and filing them to the gear profile. Only problem was that I could not see that with the covers on, looked as if there was no tooth!]
Thistle, Thanks for offer.
Im going to buy some half nuts from a dealer to solve that one problem.
I am wondering though, is tehre any gibs that hold the saddle to the bed? On the far side there is that big clamp, but on the apron side, there is only the locking clamp. I guess it does both?
12-16-2003, 08:07 PM
Bill, when it is time to put the spindle back in, you will have to depress the 2 oil wicks. If you look, you will find a small hole just above each oil cup. Press the wick down below the surface of the bearing and slide a small rod in to the hole to hold them down. Once the spindle is back in place pull the rods out. John
12-16-2003, 08:58 PM
you are correct. there is no gib on that side. i run my clamp snug to keep the apron from lifting when i part off or face to center. turning and boring i run it loose and it works fine.