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Cyclone
12-14-2010, 06:22 PM
I noticed in the latest issue of The Machinist's Workshop (End Notes page 45), that one method of preventing rust on our machinery is to rub a paste wax onto the exposed surfaces.

Another technique that I have used very successfully (well actually two techniques). The first is to mix kerosene and oil in the ratio of about 10:1 and to wipe on the exposed surfaces. The other good thing about this formula is that it will also remove dirt and other grease etc.

The second safe guard is to drape a sheet over the machinery, while is is not in use, and then to lightly spray some WD-40 on the sheet that helps to displace any moisture condensing onto it.

lynnl
12-14-2010, 07:21 PM
For metal working machines a light film of diesel fuel applied every 5 or 6 months does a good job.
Don't use kerosene tho, it can actually promote rust.

But LPS3, which is made for this purpose, is really a better choice.

However for such as a table saw top, where you don't want an oily surface that might stain the wood, the paste wax is what I usually use.

I've never gotten any of the Boeshield to try it. I've read good things about it.

vpt
12-14-2010, 08:06 PM
I just use the oily rag whenever I have time to wipe or while I'm waiting for a cut or somthing to be done.

I did just try out some teflon spray on the chuck for about 5 months. After working with the lathe with the lathe running you just spray down the chuck. The teflon would dry into a film protecting the chuck from moister and lubricating stuff. I didn't like it much however because when it came off on your hands it seamed a bit sticky and it left a white film. Was easy to wipe off and did its job though.

Forrest Addy
12-14-2010, 09:48 PM
For the record, paste wax does not prevent rust. It has no rust inhibitors by itself. A sufficiently thick film of wax will wall the metal surface off from condensation. If the film is a bit thin as from a single application is often porous. Rust will invade in a condensing environment. Once rust becomes established and cleaned up those sites are where it tends to recurr. Plan waxes like Johnson's paste wax or carnauba wood finishing preparations are not effective except temporarily. There are waxy preparations that when sprayed on are quite effective against rust but again the longevity of protection is roughly dependent on film thickness. BoeShied is one.

There are a few requirements to prevent rust: non-condensing environments, active inhibiting coatings, material surface treatment passivation, and cathodic protection. Often not applicable to machine tools, accessories, shop equipment, and tooling

In the first case warm shop, dehumidification

Next: spray coatings in closed environments in which vapor phase rust inhibitor are present. Actual film type metal preservative coatings like LPS3 are the best even in open even wet environments but they can be a PITA to remove, epecially if the user doesn't know how.

BTW WD40 is not a rust inhibitor or a lubricant no matter what know-it-all yokels tell you. It's good stuff when used as directed on the can - as a water displacement agent - and it's a good coolant for aluminum and a cleaning agent. But it's not a rust preventative or lubricant.

Third: bluing, parkerizing, phospatizing, chemical passivation, and other proprietory coatings some of which are reproducible in the home shop.

Last cathodic protection via sacrificial metal plating - zinc, cadmium plating, galvanizing (hot dipped in molten zinc) and when immersed in water application of DC voltage between the protected item and sacrificial electrodes.

A light bulb under a machine and a blanket tossed over the machine does wonders so long as the blanket stays dry. Mist or fog infiltration may render the light bulb and blanket idea futile.

Kerosene and diesel are for the most part rust attractors because of the traces of sulfer dissolved in them. However they are good thinners for protective lubricants when a thin film is desired. The new low sulfur diesel may be an improvement; I don't know. I have no experience with the newer fuels and their peripheral use.

squirrel
12-14-2010, 11:06 PM
LPS 3, its the best stuff I have found to date.

shindog
12-15-2010, 06:48 AM
Forrest,

re: "...coatings like LPS3 are the best even in open even wet environments but they can be a PITA to remove, epecially if the user doesn't know how. "

I just ordered a bottle of LPS3, and would appreciate knowing the correct way to remove it, for when the time comes. Is it necessary to use one of their degreaser products, or will any other general purpose solvent work as well? If an LPSLabs product, which one?


Thanks
--Shindog

Boucher
12-15-2010, 07:14 AM
To remove LPS3 I use WD40 and a rag.