View Full Version : Compound slide handwheel on Jet 10x24
12-18-2003, 05:49 PM
One of the common things I do on my Jet 10x24 lathe is taper the endplates on the winch drums I build. This requires the compound to be positioned nearly parallel to the cross-slide, since the taper is only 3 or 4 degrees.
The handwheel and dial hang down below the top of the cross-slide, and keep it from being positioned where I need it. I removed them, and made a samller wheel to turn the compound leadscrew. That works, but it's certainly not an ideal solution. I miss the dial and the small wheel is a pain, as is changing back to the original parts.
I made a spacer to put between the cross-slide and the base of the compound swivel, but that has drawbacks, too.
Has anyone come up with a cure for this problem? I'm thinking of making a chain drive or a gear drive so I can mount the handwheel and dial a little higher. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Do you have a picture of the problem setup?
[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-18-2003).]
12-18-2003, 08:10 PM
Here's the compound with the dial up against the top of the cross-slide:
The original handwheel is even larger than the dial.
Here's as far as I can turn the compound with the dial installed:
With the dial removed, here's the approximate position I need the compound to be in for turning the taper on the endplates:
Can you not swing it 180 and machine in reverse?
12-18-2003, 08:45 PM
Well, that's an approach I didn't consider. The lathe has a thread-on chuck, so I decided to do away with the reverse option when the switch burned out. I replaced the switch with one that gives me forward only.
I guess I could make up a switch box to give me reverse, but I've never liked the idea of running a screw-on chuck in reverse. I figured if it ever started to come loose, the tool would dig in, and the chuck would spin right off. How much should I be concerned about doing that?
[This message has been edited by winchman (edited 12-18-2003).]
I have a 1024 Jet with the same problem. If you come up with a good solution let us know. You cannot swing it to the back because it has even less clearance that way. Another problem I found out the hard way is that you cannot get close to the face plate because the saddle apron hits a large sleeve coupling on the lead screw. After having to cut a new gear for the carriage drive, I notched the apron for clearance so that won't happen again. If you ever try to use the face plate you will see what I mean. With the chucks it isn't a problem but makes the face plate almost useless.
Funny, it looks like it should swing 180. If it can turn the tool upside down and run in forward.
12-18-2003, 10:14 PM
I'm lost or dumb from too much spaghetti dinner.
Are you making a flange that is thin at the edge and thicker in the center? This is what I picture.
If that is the case, why turn the compound to the back? The same angle can be faced with compound in the front position with the handwheel to your left. No?
The compound on the 1024 Jet won't swing 180 degrees. The compound dial and crank hit the crossslide at about 10 degrees. I had the same problem trying to machine the flanges on box car wheels. I'll try to post a picture'
Just can't get the hang of posting pictures.
I ran into the same problem with my Enco 14x40. I made a spacer plate about 3/8" thick that goes between the conpound and the cross slide. It is pinned and bolted to the compund, so it will turn with it. I scribed witness marks on it that correspond the the protractor scale on the cross slide. It's worked out real well for me, the resulting difference in height was still well within the range of adjustment of my quick change tool pst.
Not to run down your lathes, but, Ugg. I think the spacer is probably the best idea.
12-19-2003, 02:27 AM
That's right, the edge of the endplate is about 1/8" at a diameter of 6" (sometimes larger) and the center is about 1/4" at a diameter of 2". Del showed the problem in his photo.
That may be the key. Pinning the spacer to the compound and scribing a witness for the protractor would make it work better. That's the part I didn't do when I made my spacer.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try it.
12-19-2003, 09:13 AM
The thread on a powered compound ( http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Forum1/HTML/004720.html ) is just in time.
If I make a drive for the compound leadscrew, I won't need the spacer, the steady feed on the drive will give a better finish, and I'll have my hands free to brush the chips out of the way. I can reinstall the original dial and handwheel for other operations.
Now, what did I do with that little gearmotor I was saving? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
[This message has been edited by winchman (edited 12-19-2003).]
12-19-2003, 10:23 AM
Well, at least I can eat spaghetti without worry. I was going to suggest an extended toolpost, but the spacer appears to be the only way out unless blessed with a barbeque motor.
Doesn't display very intuitive design on the part of JET.
12-19-2003, 06:02 PM
Couldn't find the gearmotor http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif , so I pinned the (previously-made) spacer to the bottom of the compound. The new witness mark is much easier to see than the original. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif
Then I noticed that my 1/2" square indexable tools were too high. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif So I made a thinner washer to go with the lantern type tool holder. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif Even got to use the homemade ball turning fixture to make the recess in the new washer. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Great Ideas, I'll make the spacer tomorrow and start looking for a geared motor. Maybe I can make two motor adapters so I can use it on both my lathes.
12-20-2003, 02:09 AM
You know, for some reason, I get the feeling that you would not have that problem on an American made lathe http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif