Craftex B227L Lathe Gearbox noise fix

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  • gordsgarage
    Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 68

    Craftex B227L Lathe Gearbox noise fix

    Merry Christmas everyone. I'm a new guy here on the forum. There was a thread recently started regarding the accuracy of the Busy Bee Craftex B227L lathe. In the thread there were multiple comments surrounding the noise of the gearbox. I have a B2227L lathe and love it, I also accept its limitations and I don't expect it to perform beyond those limitations.

    After using it for a couple of months the gearbox started to get really loud. It was hard to notice at first because the noise came on slowly and after a couple of more weeks it was terrible. I opened up the gearbox and couldn't see any obvious issues. I began disassembling it and found that the input shaft bearings were shot. They appear to be super cheap bearings.

    Once I traced the lubrication circuit it was fairly obvious why the bearings died. The bearing near the v belt pulley end has a small channel that allows the splash lubricated oil to run into and lube the bearing. In my opinion it is a poor design.

    I went back to Busy Bee, the unit was still under warranty, and they said they would order me in a set of OEM bearings. I figured there was no point in putting it back together with the same parts since the root of the problem was still there.

    I drove down the street to a bearing supply place I use and had them measure up the bearings and supply me 3 new high quality sealed bearings to replace all the OEM bearings on the input shaft.

    I pressed off the old and pressed on the new. Reassembled the gearbox using Megaflow Hydraulic Oil 32. Turned on the power and experience a smooth, silent running gearbox. The mechanical noise of the gearbox was bliss.

    I have been running the repair for about 10 months now and there have been no issues. The sealed bearings do not rely on splash lubrication and therefore have lasted. The repair cost me $30 and 2 days of down time. I suspect my B2227L is not the only one that suffers from this.

    The picture of the beraings, below, are the old OEM bearings. The boxes are from the new sealed bearings already installed.

    Hope this helps all you Craftex lathe owners. Happy machining!

    Gord



    http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/
  • MotorradMike
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 1087

    #2
    VERY helpful.
    Thanks very much.

    Do you have any more pictures?
    Why are there 3 bearings, do 2 go on the left end?

    Any chance of more of a step x step?


    Oh, yes, welcome.
    Mike

    My Dad always said, "If you want people to do things for you on the farm, you have to buy a machine they can sit on that does most of the work."

    Comment

    • Dragons_fire
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2007
      • 603

      #3
      Originally posted by gordsgarage
      that looks so clean!! I have oil leaking out from around the levers and it drips down all over the chart. I have to clean the chart everytime i want to read what it says.

      I think my bearings are still alright though. no extra noise and everything still seems to be fairly smooth. I did notice the after the lst time i changes the oil, my ramp up time to get to 1620rpm went from about a minute to about a second.

      Comment

      • gordsgarage
        Member
        • Nov 2010
        • 68

        #4
        Originally posted by MotorradMike
        VERY helpful.
        Thanks very much.

        Do you have any more pictures?
        Why are there 3 bearings, do 2 go on the left end?

        Any chance of more of a step x step?


        Oh, yes, welcome.
        Hi MotorradMike,

        Sorry, no more pictures. I did the repair months ago and never took pictures.

        You are correct, there are 2 bearings on the left hand side of the input shaft in order to support the v belt pully.

        The repair is fairly straight forward. The input shaft is the first shaft to come out of the gear box. The V belt pulley gets removed and then the bearing flanges can unbolt from each end of the shaft. Then the shaft can be tapped out of the gear box. Once it is on the bench the bearings can be tapped off and replaced. I used a hydraulic press however the interference fit of the bearings are not that tight. With some care they could be hammered off.

        Gord
        http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

        Comment

        • sasquatch
          Senior Member
          • May 2006
          • 4957

          #5
          Welcome also Gord, and thanks for the informitive posting about these bearings. I don,t have an 10x18 BB lathe but i have two friends who do.

          Comment

          • Black_Moons
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 9096

            #6
            Originally posted by Dragons_fire
            that looks so clean!! I have oil leaking out from around the levers and it drips down all over the chart. I have to clean the chart everytime i want to read what it says.

            I think my bearings are still alright though. no extra noise and everything still seems to be fairly smooth. I did notice the after the lst time i changes the oil, my ramp up time to get to 1620rpm went from about a minute to about a second.
            Sounds like you just need new seals to fix the oil leak.

            PS: Never use the stock oil in a chinese.. Anything! I sware they fill it up with waste oil scraped off the floor of the nearest automotive oil change shop.
            And then a week after the first oil change, Change it again after a long run at high rpm, So as much crud as can be will be suspended in the oil. After that, Machines can run for months if not years and still have CLEAR oil!
            Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

            Comment

            • darryl
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2003
              • 14430

              #7
              I love that 'clear as a bell' instruction on the chart. What the h--- does that mean? Maybe it's best if oil covers that up-

              And now I must agree again- those import machines are a work in progress. Maybe they will run right off the bat, but if you want it to last you'll have to do some work to it before you get many hours on it. Hearing about the input shaft bearings just re-inforces my opinion on that.

              Not saying I wouldn't buy one- just that I'd consider it pretty much a kit, although a pre-assembled one. It's good to see it in one piece before you dismantle to remove casting sand, contaminated oil and grease, paint shims, etc. And THEN- a bonus- you could choose to paint it ANY COLOR YOU WANT!
              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

              Comment

              • gordsgarage
                Member
                • Nov 2010
                • 68

                #8
                Originally posted by darryl
                I love that 'clear as a bell' instruction on the chart. What the h--- does that mean? Maybe it's best if oil covers that up-
                Hi Daryl, I agree with you when I first got the lathe, the numbers were all confusing and the Chinese manual was of little help. Once I methodically worked my way through it all it began to make sense. All the numbers relate to the gearing required to cut different thread pitches. There are a series of 4 gears that need to be changed depending on the required pitch. It took me some time to sort it all out but it does all actually work.

                I agree with with you in regards to the cheaper machines are a work in progress. Like I said in my original post, I accept its limitations. It is nice, though, when I perform a repair that the machine is certainly better then new.

                Gord
                http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                Comment

                • oldtiffie
                  Member
                  • Nov 1999
                  • 3963

                  #9
                  Gearing



                  Note that this lathe cuts 13tpi which a lot do not.

                  The gearing is easy when your chase the internal gear-train through from the spindle to the external gear train stub for gear "A".

                  That reduction is 1:4

                  Put that ratio in your DR1/DN1 X DR2/DR2 x DR3/DR3 and it all makes sense.

                  Or put another way: 1/4 x A/B x C/D and you can solve for any gear ratio between the head-stock and the lead-screw that the gears supplied can cater for.

                  The gears (very well made) are Metric Modular 1 ie 1 to each mm diameter of the gear pitch circle diameter. They should not be hard to make with a good metric Mod1 involute gear cutter.

                  My lathe is about 28" between centres and has a "pi" screw-threading function that caters for threads/screws/hobs/worms etc. with a "pi" (22/7) component in the screw lead.

                  I will post pics later.

                  Comment

                  • Black_Moons
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 9096

                    #10
                    Pi threads? So thats what that weird 'thread type' knob is on some high end QCGB lathes iv seen is.
                    of course, Now I wonder, what is a Pi thread and why would you want one?
                    Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

                    Comment

                    • oldtiffie
                      Member
                      • Nov 1999
                      • 3963

                      #11
                      Pi in the sky??

                      Here is my B227L lathe - about 28+" between centres:



                      And here is my combined metric and inch gear-ratio panel:


                      The "pi" panel is designated mp which is the pitch in mm x pi

                      Note that pi = 22/7 for gearing purposes and the "pi" gears are 110/35 = 22/7.

                      So - for mp = 1.0

                      A/B X C/D = 60/75 x 110/35 = 3.1416mm lead = 1 x pi lead.

                      As I have the 127 gear as well its not hard to work back-wards from the lead I want to the nearest available ratios to get that lead on my 3mm lead-screw.

                      If I don't have the gear its easy to make it - just buy a metric mod gear 20* PA gear cutter of the correct number from the standard Mod gear cutter set.

                      Comment

                      • Greg Q
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2007
                        • 367

                        #12
                        I don't want to rain on your parade, but why did you opt for Indian bearings when SKF or similar name brand units would have been a similar price and have a greater probability of a longer service life?

                        Comment

                        • gordsgarage
                          Member
                          • Nov 2010
                          • 68

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Greg Q
                          ...why did you opt for Indian bearings when SKF or similar name brand units would have been a similar price and have a greater probability of a longer service life?
                          Hi Greg,

                          It's what the bearing supply house had in stock at the time. My bearing fail had interrupted a project I was working on and I wanted to get the machine back up and running ASAP. I do not consider the repair major surgery so if I need to throw in another set of bearings at a later date I will do so.

                          Gord
                          http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                          Comment

                          • gwilson
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2007
                            • 2077

                            #14
                            Getting sealed bearings seems like a good idea,as I doubt the oil gets slung into the bearings properly in a splash lube headstock.

                            Comment

                            • WilliamG
                              Member
                              • Oct 2009
                              • 92

                              #15
                              Craftex B2227L gearbox noise fix

                              Originally posted by gordsgarage
                              Hi MotorradMike,

                              Sorry, no more pictures. I did the repair months ago and never took pictures.

                              You are correct, there are 2 bearings on the left hand side of the input shaft in order to support the v belt pully.

                              The repair is fairly straight forward. The input shaft is the first shaft to come out of the gear box. The V belt pulley gets removed and then the bearing flanges can unbolt from each end of the shaft. Then the shaft can be tapped out of the gear box. Once it is on the bench the bearings can be tapped off and replaced. I used a hydraulic press however the interference fit of the bearings are not that tight. With some care they could be hammered off.
                              Gord
                              Really like your modification. That said should I assume the right bearing stays with the gearbox frame in order to remove the input shaft? If not how then do you remove the input shaft by the gear change cluster?

                              As a newbie you have me somewhat confused not that it takes much for that. What am I really looking at as it pertains to the item by item removal process. Could you be more specific as it relates to the removal process.

                              Welcome comments!

                              Bill
                              Veteran - I served our country because it was the right thing to do.

                              Comment

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