I have started to build a storage cabinet for my home shop and have cut all the 30x30x2 mm profiles to length. Then I used gasoline in an attempt to clean the black grease that is on the profiles (for rust prevention I suppose). The profiles look clean, but when I go over them with a finger, there is still a film of oil left. I guess the oil dissolves in the gasoline and many more passes are needed to get it totally clean. Is there a better method for cleaning profiles? Maybe glass cleaner, or kitchen type degreasers? That way, I will also avoid the stink of the gasoline all over my clothes
Degreasing square profiles prior to welding
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A caustic soda soak of the parts will remove all paint and oil from any steel or iron surfaces.This is what the engine rebuilders use.It will destroy any non iron bases stuff though.
Here in the states most commonly found in a crystal drain cleaner [Draino]
I use a 1lb can to 5 gal of water [500gr-20L] This can be used over and over.
Wear gloves and eye protection as it will burn the skin.
Wash parts well with clean water then use a solvent paint thinner wipe down then prime and paint
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Originally posted by 2ManyHobbiesIt is probably more from the rolling process than there for preservation. Try a wire wheel, it will go faster and includes less volatiles (a plus for welding) in the process.
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Originally posted by J WeberA caustic soda soak of the parts will remove all paint and oil from any steel or iron surfaces.This is what the engine rebuilders use.It will destroy any non iron bases stuff though.
Here in the states most commonly found in a crystal drain cleaner [Draino]
I use a 1lb can to 5 gal of water [500gr-20L] This can be used over and over.
Wear gloves and eye protection as it will burn the skin.
Wash parts well with clean water then use a solvent paint thinner wipe down then prime and paint
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Originally posted by taydinOk, just looked up caustic soda. It is Sodium Hydroxide and is easily available here and very cheap.
I spray it on a terry-cloth towel and wipe the tubing down. Gets it squeaky clean, but dang a ton of black crap comes off..."Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."
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Originally posted by lazloSodium Hydroxide is lye. Just get a bottle of Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power, etc.
I spray it on a terry-cloth towel and wipe the tubing down. Gets it squeaky clean, but dang a ton of black crap comes off...
Or "Simple Green".....
I use it almost exclusively for degreasing."Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."~ Thomas Jefferson
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Try simplle remedies first. I'm expert in cleaning up oiley stuff. For 50 years I've degreased miles - well, yeah, propably miles - of cold roll, square and rectangular tube, etc coated with a film of gooey petroleum based preservative. Mineral spirits cuts it readily but it takes a minute to work.
Set up a system. Lay the material on horses. Round up a coffee can and pour an inch of mineral spirits paint thinner in the bottom. Using clean rag and working quickly wipe a thin coat of thinner on the material. Wait a few minutes. If there are thick applications stir them with an old brush to encourage solvent action. Using the blue mechanic' paper towels folded in quarters, wipe off the film and the solvent. Fold and re-fold the towel until all sides have been used. This single application should remove 99% of the oiley goo. If not do a second. Be careful not to contaminate the thinner in the can with goo picked up by the rag (there's tricks for everything, even slopping on thinner). If you want paint clean, continue cleaning (being careful to use clean solvent) 'til the wiping towels no longer discolor.
If you went about it efficiently, a single application of solvent should get the material clean enough for marking, cutting, and welding. If not repeat. The trick is to get maximum cleaning from a miinimum of cleaning materials.
Clean up and diposal. Spread the oiley waste along stretched rope, ladder rungs etc so the solvent can dry. The preservative remains in the absorbant. Unlike drying oils (linseed etc) petroleum oil soked waste will not spontaneouly combust but it is flammible. Burn it in small batches in the barbecue or store it in your combustable container for later safe disposal.
I've used every kind of aqueous cleaner there is (lye, citrus crap, Simple Green, the purple stuff etc) and none of it is worth a $hit for bulk oil and grease removal. It takes three times the volume of water based cleaner to remove a volume of oil and grease and then you have hard to dispose of residues that range from ionic to harshly reactive. Water based cleaners work very well for final clean up to remove the last traces yes but not bulk. I once cleaned a large (8 x 40 ft table) sludgy planer to bare iron and clean paint with a couple gallons of solvent, a bale of rags, and a putty knife. When I was done I had a trash bag of oiley rags, a cement cart of chips and dirt, and a couple inches of scraped off sludge in a 5 gallon pail. I did use the water based cleaner - AFTER the machine was thoroughly cleaned of oil, dirt, goo, and varnish. Under the brown film and dirt was a glistening machine tool that did not need painting.Last edited by Forrest Addy; 01-16-2011, 11:56 AM.
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Just weld it . I work in a fabricating Job shop and have never seen any one clean new iron to weld . the heat will burn off what is their. The weldments may are may not be sand blasted before paint.Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
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Originally posted by lazloSodium Hydroxide is lye. Just get a bottle of Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power, etc.
I spray it on a terry-cloth towel and wipe the tubing down. Gets it squeaky clean, but dang a ton of black crap comes off...
Wouldn't it work if I dissolve NaOH in water and use that?
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Originally posted by Forrest AddyTry simplle remedies first. I'm expert in cleaning up oiley stuff. For 50 years I've degreased miles - well, yeah, propably miles - of cold roll, square and rectangular tube, etc coated with a film of gooey petroleum based preservative. Mineral spirits cuts it readily but it takes a minute to work.
Also, I have seen the "mineral spirits" used to mean kerosene. Kerosene is oily, so I think it should not be used for degreasing. Or does "mineral spirit" stand for solvents like paint thinner, gasoline etc?Last edited by taydin; 01-16-2011, 01:11 PM.
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Originally posted by laneJust weld it . I work in a fabricating Job shop and have never seen any one clean new iron to weld . the heat will burn off what is their. The weldments may are may not be sand blasted before paint.
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Originally posted by taydinWell, when I attacked it with a steel brush, it didn't remove the oil, but contaminated the steel brush...
I'd say flap disks, but that is a discussion for the user as to whether or not you want material removal.
Either way, I have an angle grinder on hand when welding for cutting and/or cleaning up stock for welding then use it for quick touch-ups after I'm done welding.
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what process are you going to use to weld the pieces together
How you clean it and with what will depend partly on what welding process you will use. I would not just weld it as is. 2mm thick material you need it clean in order to get correct welds. The less experience you have as a weldor the better you need to prepare. Have as many things going for you as possible!
I don't subscribe to the good ol' boy notion of just crank up the heat and burn off the contaminate. Not if you want sound welds and neat welds.Location: The Black Forest in Germany
How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!
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