Threaded nose (aka CNC) MT2 centers.

[Arthur.Marks]

I have a Phase II 8" rotary table with tailstock. The tailstock does not have a drift slot or thru-hole. This makes removing the MT2 center problematic at best. Even when using a half-center as it came with, removing it is troublesome. I have been looking for a threaded nose center to use on the tailstock. These are often called "CNC" type. Anything below MT3 is difficult to find in this design. I can find reduced diameter MT2 centers, but no full diameters. Does anyone know if there is a source for the full diameter? It is not worth it if I have to special-order or make it myself. I'll just stick to my half-center and pliers technique

http://www.starkindustrial.com/CNCMorseTaperReducedDiameter

[Black_Moons]

Add a through hole? Just an idea.

[gvasale]

Any chance to remove the socket and have a slot cut into it? by wire edm or waterjet? If it is not hardened, it could be milled. Can you put up a photo of the offenting part (not the center?)

[Anvils]

Arthur, The link below is for drill chuck arbors but if you look at the bottom of the page you will find threaded MT arbors

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Drill-Chuck-Arbors/570.html

Norm

[Arthur.Marks]

Pictures:

[Arthur.Marks]

The center that came with it:

...basic half center. Flat on one side only.

[Arthur.Marks]

Anvils, the threaded portion I am referencing is used to remove the center from its slot with a nut---not for mounting a chuck. You can see in the first picture of the overall tailstock how this works. That particular piece of tooling was included with a purchase I made years ago. I store the tailstock with that arbor inserted to keep the taper clean.

[gvasale]

Thanks for the photo of the taper socket. First, check to see if is hard. If you can file it, likely its not hard. Next, at the end where the small hole is, and the sdjusting bracket attaches, see if the hole is a through hole. If is is, this will be easier. There is what appears to be a pin in that bracket, if it blocks the "hole" previously mentioned, it may need to be replaced with a set screw, or maybe ignored for a moment. My thoughts: If the back of that socket has a hole running through to the front, maybe enlarge it enouth to use a knock out bar. That would mean if the pin previously mentioned must go. and the adjusting knob is too big. High strength green Locktite can replace the pin, and either buy or fab a smaller knob. That is about a $15.00 fix. No need to do anything else. If the socket is hard, carbide lathe tools or end mill can probably do the trick.

[Arthur.Marks]

The quill is solid except for the female taper socket. It isn't hardened, though. Depth of the MT2 socket is 3.357". Looks like I'll be referencing some dimensions in Machinery's Handbook later today. Thanks for the motivation here, guys. Sometimes I need it

[Arthur.Marks]

Without the handle for the curious:

[gvasale]

Looking good. If you can drill through the back end, you don't need the handbook. Just a drill long enough to reach the back of the taper socket. Even a 1/4, or slightly larger bar ought to be able to push out the center.

[Black_Moons]

Dang, thats the same tailstock I got its looks so much.. bigger in person!
Seriously good value for the money, in a pound of iron per dollar ratio anyway.

Im thinking the back could be drilled out and the pin cut in half to leave clearance..

Alternatively, a slot could be milled in it for a drift.. But you might have to either take the barrel out of the tailstock to remove it, or maybe insert a spacer block in there before the dead center, depending on the length of the dead center compaired to the portion that normaly sticks out the back.

Its kinda a weird tailstock design compaired to the typicaly screw inside the ram design for self extraction. You could convert it with a spacer block, secured via drilled/taped holes into the back of the tailstock, and drill/tap the barrel for a new adjusting screw..

Or you could cut a groove into the centers body, add a circlip and make a slide hammer attachment to grab onto the circlip (or the groove itself), Or an attachment to some kinda puller.
Of course, that does not help you with other tools unless you adapt them.