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View Full Version : creating a one-piece straight razor handle with a shaper, and a belt-grinder



Elninio
01-26-2011, 04:30 PM
This is what a straight razor looks like, it's made from the blade and the handle, which is made of two 'scales'. The one below also happens to be the world's most expensive, estimated at $30,000:
http://gadgets.boingboing.net/damscene-razor-from-hommage_AsLku_59.jpg

The two scales are held onto the blade by two or more rivetts. I will be creating a one-piece handle that holds the blade by one rivett. This will involve using a shaper to cut the blade's profile. Straight razor blades are typically "full hollow ground", which take this profile (I think the difficulty is now obvious):
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j27/JustAHack/Straight%20Razors/IwasakivsBusch02.jpg
(the one on the right is the 'full hollow ground').

It wont' be possible to make a cutting tool with that profile (will it?), but perhaps I can made a wider cutting tool, and crush the aluminum handle to narrow the channel (since the exterior will be sanded round, the damage the crushing causes will not matter).

I will also be making a small sander attachment for my 6" bench grinder, similar to this:
http://www.merricktackle.com/tool-images/belt-sander.jpg
It will be interesting in that the body will be attached onto a bearing, which will be on the shaft. It will be held to the body by two pins. Pictures of my progress on the grinder so far, follows ...

lazlo
01-26-2011, 04:44 PM
It wont' be possible to make a cutting tool with that profile (will it?), but perhaps I can made a wider cutting tool, and crush the aluminum handle to narrow the channel (since the exterior will be sanded round, the damage the crushing causes will not matter).

The first half of your post is asking about the handle, but it sounds like this is asking about how to shape the blade?

There are many bladesmiths on Bladeforums.com who make straight razors. They're normally forged to near net shape and then hollow ground on a large contact wheel, or just ground from a thicker piece of flat-ground stock.

I think you're going to have trouble trying to cut/grind that profile without a large (8") contact wheel.

You might consider posting this question on the Bladeforum "ShopTalk" section.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=741

Elninio
01-26-2011, 04:50 PM
The pulleys:

There is a small thread and a large thread. Next to the large thread on the axle, there is a space between the bearing's inner-bracer, so belt won't rub on the pulley holder. The belts I have are 1/2" by 24" , blue colored sand (don't know what it is), but they cost 6$ each.
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9790/95444572.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/95444572.jpg/)

In between the bearings there is a spacer so that all force that small thread's nut exerts is entirely on the inner braces of the bearing. The outer brace of the bearings are pressed into the pulleys which will have to be sanded to be made convex. I think I have the axial tolerances within 5 thou (i.e the maximum the outer brace is away from being flush with the pocket inside the aluminium pulley body).
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2010/57824547.jpg (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/57824547.jpg/)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9940/35275480.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/i/35275480.jpg/)

By the way, does anyone know about this company? This is my razor:

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/547/75423485.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/75423485.jpg/)

Elninio
01-26-2011, 04:56 PM
The first half of your post is asking about the handle, but it sounds like this is asking about how to shape the blade?


I will only be shaping the handle, but it should have the same profile as the blade, so that when it closes, it holds it in snuggly. I'm hoping since the blade is nearly non-wedge for half of its length, the handle will hold it as if it was pressed in, when closed.

The piece that is on the bench grinder's axle, I had to part off. I didn't think I could do it but here's how I did it: I put a boring bar shank 1/2" diameter through the piece, and the piece in the chuck with the axle through it, with just enough space for the boring bar to part the piece with the ball bearing facing the exterior. The boring bar was supported in the tailstock chuck, very little pressure in the lathe chuck otherwise it would sieze up too much on the bar support. The second operation involves facing the parted end (the end you see in the following picture). This was done by clamping the ball bearing with the aluminium piece it is pressed on facing out, and then take very light passes. 1" thou dept facing passes were sufficient for my HSS boring bar oriented parallel with the lathe spindle to face it. Who would have known this would work?! The bearing spins freely, and even though I was turning at 2500rpm, there's not enough mass for there to be significant momentum - the only explanation is there is not much friction in this cut.

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/614/markham2011012600101.jpg (http://img600.imageshack.us/i/markham2011012600101.jpg/)

lazlo
01-26-2011, 05:00 PM
I will only be shaping the handle, but it should have the same profile as the blade, so that when it closes, it holds it in snuggly.

Ah, you don't want just a clamshell, you want it to be a negative image of the blade.

Is that the way the $30,000 razor is made?

Elninio
01-26-2011, 05:04 PM
Ah, you don't want just a clamshell, you want it to be a negative image of the blade.

Is that the way the $30,000 razor is made?

Just thought it would be an interesting concept to make it this way, but I suppose one could order a 29,500$ wire-EDM machine or diamond wire machine to make the handle in this fantastically creative and un-necessary way ...

I remember once a blacksmith on youtube saying that damascene steel doesn't make the blade sharper, rather to the contrary. The $30,000 razor has 128 layers. Typically people sharpen their razors with 1micron diamond paste, wonder how thick each layer is ...

Black_Moons
01-26-2011, 05:07 PM
Intresting pattren in the blade itself, I can only assume thats why its 'so expensive'
is it forged and folded steel like a katana? (Except im assuming two rather radicaly diffrent alloys, folded in an odd method to get that kinda pattren)

Elninio
01-26-2011, 06:34 PM
Intresting pattren in the blade itself, I can only assume thats why its 'so expensive'
is it forged and folded steel like a katana? (Except im assuming two rather radicaly diffrent alloys, folded in an odd method to get that kinda pattren)

Yes, its forged and folded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damascus_steel

I don't think that's why its so expensive - saw a guy making pocket knifes this way and they were ~500 to 1000 for one. I think he had about 100 layers in his. You've probably seen his webpage if you lurk this bbs.

Elninio
02-26-2011, 10:39 AM
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2329/markham2011022300112.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/markham2011022300112.jpg/)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4230/markham2011022300114.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/markham2011022300114.jpg/)
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/8373/markham2011022300113.jpg (http://img576.imageshack.us/i/markham2011022300113.jpg/)

kendall
02-26-2011, 03:53 PM
Yes, its forged and folded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damascus_steel

I don't think that's why its so expensive - saw a guy making pocket knifes this way and they were ~500 to 1000 for one. I think he had about 100 layers in his. You've probably seen his webpage if you lurk this bbs.

Also saw a blacksmithing page that I forgot to mark, where they were using ball bearings to make a damascus type steel for knife blades, very interesting effect when completed. No idea on how well the bearing steel worked as a blade material but it made some very nice looking blades.