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neksmerj
02-28-2011, 10:31 PM
I want to purchase a face mill with TC inserts for my Arboga EM825 mill.

1. What's the ideal size, I'm thinking 63mm?
2. Do I buy a unit that's one piece, ie, head and arbor as one or
3. Do I buy a unit where the head and arbor are separate pieces?
4. I'm looking CTC tools for my purchase, your thoughts?

The arbor will need to be MT3 modified for the Arboga.

Ken

Black_Moons
02-28-2011, 10:43 PM
Ideal size is usally a little bigger then your workpeice.. Unless its for mass metal removal on giant workpeices.. then it depends on the mill.

Head and arbor as one is considered more accurate and rigid, but less versitile since you can't swap the arbor around next machine you buy.

That said, I might consider seperate arbor in your case since you need to modify it, Less $ lost incase you screw up the modification process, or need to sell it later on.

CTC tools is considered pertty good value for the price. Its not grade A++, but you are definately getting decent products for the money.

Davo J
02-28-2011, 11:17 PM
Hi Ken,
I think you maybe getting mixed up with one piece and 2 piece off CTC as they are all 2 piece. The only difference is he sells the face mill with or without the arbour.
With the MT3/63mm face mill if you click on "Detailed description" it shows the face mill and arbour as 2 separate parts.
http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-168/63-MM-INDEXABLE-FACE/Detail

For a MT3 I would go with a 63mm one.

Dave

PixMan
02-28-2011, 11:20 PM
When you say "TC" inserts, just what are you talking about?

I have a couple of face mills now. None are using "TC" inserts that I know of, and all cut like a hot knife through butter using (except for the largest one) standard ANSI/ISO inserts of the SEKN/SEHN/SEEN 43 or 1204 size.

For low HP machines, these high positive cutters with 45 lead angle are the way to go.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v466/kenm10759/Dads%20shop/IMG_0992-r.jpg

L to R: 102mm (4"), 76mm (3"), 52mm (2"), 32mm (1-1/4")

These are face mills. The one from CTC Tools posted above is considered a shoulder mill.

My bad...I just figured out you mean "Tungsten Carbide". We don't hear that term used much over here these days. It's just "carbide insert" tooling to most of us.

BTW, one of the advertisers here, Glacern Machine Tool, seems to have a VERY nice line of this type of face mill.

neksmerj
03-01-2011, 04:36 AM
Thanks gentlemen for your comments.

Davo J, looks like you are correct. I could have sworn that I found a one piece unit, but blowed if I can find it again.

Maybe it wasn't CTCtools, but another brand.

Maybe you would like to comment on our Aussie WW forum

PixMan, that's a nice collection you have. What would you use if you had to machine up to a shoulder?

Ken

PixMan
03-01-2011, 06:42 AM
PixMan, that's a nice collection you have. What would you use if you had to machine up to a shoulder?

Ken

There's a few different approaches, depending upon the situation. For primarily getting material off and a surface flat, those 45 lead mills are the way to go. If it's a broad area leading up to a shoulder and I don't wish to make multiple passes, I might use a tool similar to those we saw in the CTC Tools link. I only have those up to 1-1/4" (32mm) diameter in a straight shank with Weldon flat. You see the one I mean on the far left. There's a 1" diameter "corn cob" or "porcupine" cutter for taller shoulders there too.ju Yu

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v466/kenm10759/Dads%20shop/IMG_0740-r.jpg

The one in the lower left front using TPG inserts, is sold. I don't like those for the fact that they hammer the work and the spindle bearings pretty hard, very little shear action.

Bear in mind that the only reason to use carbide insert cutters on low HP machines is for longer tool life (and I got most of those I have for free or dirt cheap on Ebay.) I know I will NEVER be able to load those inserts at the full depth and @ .006" to .016" (0,15mm to 0,4mm) feed per tooth that they're capable of taking. I mostly rub the inserts to death.

The only way to use them on my weak machine is at light depth of cuts, high speed and decent feed to get the surface finish from them that HSS end mills can't get you. Only buy into these cutters with eyes wide open about what they can do on your machine and what they will actually cost to use. And for that, get cutter that use the smallest, cheapest inserts because you're going to be tossing sharp edges with dull corners.

Steelmaster
03-02-2011, 05:04 AM
Thanks gentlemen for your comments.

Davo J, looks like you are correct. I could have sworn that I found a one piece unit, but blowed if I can find it again.

Maybe it wasn't CTCtools, but another brand.

Maybe you would like to comment on our Aussie WW forum

PixMan, that's a nice collection you have. What would you use if you had to machine up to a shoulder?

Ken

Ken, I bought 2 one piece face mills from CDCO, but they are for R8, can't remember if they have MT3.

Edit:

Just looked them up, no MT3, but he does do one piece 3/4" straight shank.

tdmidget
03-02-2011, 05:30 AM
TC inserts? The chemical symbol for tungsten is "W". If you said WC people would know what you were talking about.

hornluv
03-02-2011, 09:46 AM
TC inserts? The chemical symbol for tungsten is "W". If you said WC people would know what you were talking about.

WC = Water closet, aka bathroom