View Full Version : Mounting a chuck to a Phase II rotary table question ....

Gary Heath
03-01-2011, 05:33 PM
I have a lathe with 8" D1-5 chucks that I would like to use on my 8" Phase II rotary table (that has 4 each .4650" T- slots, and an MT3 center taper).

Does anyone know of an adapter that will allow me to just bolt this together, or do I have to make up one myself?

I've looked at the Phase II adapter plates and they only allow a plain back 6" chuck to be used on the 8" table. :(

Thanks, and best regards,


Dr Stan
03-01-2011, 06:50 PM
You'll probably have to make this yourself. If you Goggle D1-5 spindle nose you should be able to come up with the specs.

03-02-2011, 12:27 AM
Gary you could make/buy a D1-5 backplate but if you are going to use it on your mill in the horizontal position you better have a big mill. I am doing a job at this time w/ a piece 5 in. tall on an 8inch rotary table. The piece is mounted on a plate .625 thick and there is not much clearance for tooling and this is on a Lagun.
Just something to think about.

03-02-2011, 09:10 AM
Try contacting this guy Gary, he may be able to advise


Regards Ian.

Gary Heath
03-02-2011, 04:10 PM
After some advise from others ..... I found what I need to do what I want!! :)

As some have pointed out; using a D1 chuck is going to take up a lot of vertical space, and at $95 price for the G9866 8", 4 jaw independent from Grizzly, I would be better off just buying and using it to do what I want.
More vertical space, will just bolt right up to the table using it's 4 through-holes, some bolts and some T-nuts, and is more cost effective than going to a purchased (and probably even a home-made) adapter plate for a D1 chuck.

Thanks for the responses, and best regards,


Forrest Addy
03-02-2011, 05:12 PM
Height can be critical on smaller mills. If you have a rotary table that 3 1/2" high then add a 12" chuck and a thick ridiculous adapter plate you can be over 10" high at the jaw tops. Add 3" of tooling and there's not much room for work height between table and spindle nose. Even an extra inch can be important.

If the budget will stretch get a chuck just for the rotab; a plain back you can fiddle with. Any amount that's not needed for strangth and rigidity takes up height you might need for taller work. How much to machine off? Every situation is different so I couldn't tell you - but don't get too carried away.

I suggest you machine the back of your chuck body to suit your rotab leaving integral keys to fit in the rotab slots. Drill if the existing chuck holes dont line up with the table - or dril and tap the table. Plan carefully. Cast chuck bodies and and rotary tables have thick and thin sections. If you drill through a thin place you may not have enough thickness to tap.

If you mill the integral keys right the chuck will center on the table - IF the table keys are checked for location and any errors found are compensated for.

03-03-2011, 10:07 AM
"If you have a rotary table that 3 1/2" high then add a 12" chuck and a thick ridiculous adapter plate"

The adaptor plate shown adds virtually nothing to the stack height. The O/P's request was for a D1-5 type mounting and ANY D type fitting is compromised by pins stuck out the back of the chuck/faceplate/collet holder.

This is the price you pay for speed of interchangability.

Regards Ian.

03-04-2011, 12:59 AM
Gary one last thought. If you are doing small work you can put a small 3 or 4 jaw chuck in the outside jaws of your 3 jaw that is on the machine, then transfer the work to the mill and hold down w/ either clamps or thru bolts.