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Miner49r
03-08-2011, 04:38 PM
Now I have really done it... I bent the spindle assy on my Craftsman Drill Press. (103.23131) Nobody needs to tell me that the sixty year old part in no longer available.

What are my options?
a) attempt to straighten the spindle. This will inherently weaken the part and make it prone to bending or breaking.

b) turn down the spindle and put a new Jacobs taper on it. Or thread it for a different chuck.

c) take the spindle to a real machinist and have a replacement made.

Lesson learned?
STOP MILLING WITH YOUR HEIRLOOM DRILL PRESS!!!

Gary Paine
03-08-2011, 04:47 PM
A friend did the same thing. A large spade bit jammed in the work and ........
He disassembled the press and brought over the spindle. I marked the high spot in the spindle and put it on v blocks in the press and straightened it. Took a couple tries, but it came out pretty good. The shaft was then indicated in in my lathe with a steady rest at the chuck end and I took a few thousandths off the Jacobs taper to true it up to the spindle again.
Runout in the press was checked and was extremely good. He's been using it with no problems for several years now....but he doesn't try to mill with it.:)

cadwiz
03-08-2011, 07:10 PM
Don't be too quick to write off parts availability. Couldn't see the pic but it sounds similar to my Katrina salvaged craftsman DP. Spindle rusted solid. I found a source for Sears parts (parts direct maybe?, I'll have to look). Very surprising almost all of the parts are available including spindle/bearings. I'll try to remember and post the source link when I get a chance.

Cadwiz

Mr Fixit
03-08-2011, 07:59 PM
Hello Miner49r,
I have a Craftsman drill press that was used in a paint lab for 30yrs to stir and mix fiberglass resins ( must of set up a time or two) and paints. When I got it it had a run-out of ? ( a lot ) and didn't drill a straight hole. Thought it was the chuck, bought a new one still had a problem removed the spindle and took it to a tool grinder and he trued it up to within .0001. I got new bearings from the local bearing house the best price versus a retailer of "Craftsman Parts" it works like a champ, and now the holes are true and come out in the middle on both sides of the material I am drilling.
My suggestion is fix it if at all possible. You don't tell us how bent it is but between the press idea and grinding it I think you should get back in business with little outlay of money. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

Chris :)
Mr. Fixit in the family

lane
03-08-2011, 08:09 PM
Some one made that one . Copy it and make a new one . Use ETD 150 material are 4140 HT. Machine it between centers it is not hard to do . done it many times . Drill press spindles, milling machine spindles and any thing similar Even a grinder spindle are two.

jack3140
03-08-2011, 08:44 PM
Now I have really done it... I bent the spindle assy on my Craftsman Drill Press. (103.23131) Nobody needs to tell me that the sixty year old part in no longer available.

What are my options?
a) attempt to straighten the spindle. This will inherently weaken the part and make it prone to bending or breaking.

b) turn down the spindle and put a new Jacobs taper on it. Or thread it for a different chuck.

c) take the spindle to a real machinist and have a replacement made.

Lesson learned?
STOP MILLING WITH YOUR HEIRLOOM DRILL PRESS!!!
dont give up i straightened the shaft on my planer using the flame method it worked beautifully my planer is back in operation and it did,nt cost me a dime, just a bit of acetylene if you want details go to how to and search flame straightening good luck jack

fciron
03-08-2011, 10:12 PM
Unless you bent it to a right angle it probably hasn't and won't weaken noticeably. I would certainly attempt to straighten first, failing that attempt to turn a concentric taper or thread on the end for a new chuck mount. Only if all of that failed would I search for a replacement part.

After all, if straightening or machining fail, it was already broken. :p

Miner49r
03-11-2011, 12:27 AM
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I will put a dial indicater to it this weekend. I had completely forgotten about flame straightening. That and indexing the high spot and using pressure from the mill table should work.
I'll keep you posted.

Miner49r
03-12-2011, 01:13 AM
Here it is... spindle run out:
.019" at spindle above the taper
.032" at narrow end of taper
.062" at chuck (as pictured)

Certainly not a right angle, but enough to put a cramp in my day.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60496996@N02/5519250288/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60496996@N02/5519250222/in/photostream/

dfw5914
03-12-2011, 01:52 AM
With a pair of v-blocks, a hyd press, and a little patience, I bet that spindle can be saved.

Miner49r
03-12-2011, 11:04 AM
OK Guys,
I got it apart with the exception of the thrust collar for the chuck. It appears there is a roll pin in a blind hole holding it to the spindle. The only way I can see to remove the pin is by drilling. Sure wish I had a drill press.:D

I suppose that the thrust collar should be removed before I send it out for staightening... grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

rmuell01
03-12-2011, 12:39 PM
OK Guys,
I got it apart with the exception of the thrust collar for the chuck. It appears there is a roll pin in a blind hole holding it to the spindle. The only way I can see to remove the pin is by drilling. Sure wish I had a drill press.:D

I suppose that the thrust collar should be removed before I send it out for staightening... grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

I have a collar on my rockwell. I put a bar in the chuck hole and a spanner wrench in the collar and worked it back and forth until it freed up enough to unthread it.

dfw5914
03-12-2011, 10:55 PM
I think that collar is supposed to stay attached to the chuck. The end of the spindle should look like this:

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n188/pmhurco/March2011003a-1.jpg

J Tiers
03-12-2011, 11:15 PM
I think that collar is supposed to stay attached to the chuck. The end of the spindle should look like this:



That's quite substantial....

The Walker-Turner and others I looked at may not have had the same JT33 on it, because they had a substantial neck-down above the chuck. They were "stated" in some cases to be for the collar type chuck, but they did not look like that.

I would not be particularly worried about that size spindle bending.

The ones I saw were definitely NOT like that. From what I see there, the others were just spindles with a built-in Jacobs taper. And not a large one, either. With the neck-down to perhaps 60% of the big end of the taper, it is no wonder they bent.

dfw5914
03-12-2011, 11:25 PM
This is on a Craftsman "Heavy Duty" 17" drill press (113.213873) I bought new in the early eighties.

darryl
03-13-2011, 03:59 AM
Removing a roll pin from a blind hole- not saying you need to do this, but if you did- fill the hole in the pin with grease (not easy but possible), then take a close fitting pin of some kind and start it into the roll pin. Wrap some cloth around the area to catch the squirt, then smack the pin sharply with a small hammer. You might get lucky and hydraulic pressure will force the pin out. I have had this work for me- pretty cool when it does.

Filling the tiny hole with grease and getting the air out- you should still be able to buy a syringe with a small enough tip. I usually get mine from a farm supply place. Pull the plunger out and put some grease in, get the grease started coming out the tip without air, then poke it right to the bottom of the hole in the roll pin and squeeze until grease comes out the hole. Continue squeezing as you withdraw the needle.

Miner49r
03-13-2011, 11:49 AM
dfw: The thrust collar nut is on the chuck. I assumed the part pinned to the spindle would be named the thrust collar.

darryl: That process had crossed my mind. We used to use it to romove throw out bearing from crankshafts.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60496996@N02/5523035520/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60496996@N02/5523035520/

J Register
03-13-2011, 01:15 PM
Would the roll pin make a good enough drill guide to drill through to the other side? Then you could enlarge the hole from the other side to drive the roll pin out the way it went in.

The idea doesn't get you home free - you'll still end up with a ring of unwanted metal between the end of the drill bit and the roll pin, and still want a drill press. It may be something you can build on if the grease trick doesn't work.

Jim

Gary Paine
03-13-2011, 01:54 PM
I wouldn't think the collar would affect a straightening operation on the shaft at all unless the shaft is bent very close to the collar. Have you tried laying the shaft on a flat surface (surface plate, table saw, etc.) with the collar over the edge, of course, put a light source behind it, and roll it over to see if you can see the bend? I would expect maximum bend to be roughly half way between the bearing journals.

rmuell01
03-13-2011, 04:54 PM
I think that collar is supposed to stay attached to the chuck. The end of the spindle should look like this:

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n188/pmhurco/March2011003a-1.jpg

like this?

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_0111.jpg

Rob

dfw5914
03-13-2011, 04:56 PM
dfw: The thrust collar nut is on the chuck. I assumed the part pinned to the spindle would be named the thrust collar....

Ahh, I didnt realize that the spindle was a built up item (the spindle in the later models is one piece). I wouldnt be a bit surprised if the bend is right at the hole for the pin.

Alistair Hosie
03-13-2011, 04:58 PM
Don't wish to be mean but I reckon after sixty years it's understandable that they don't have parts in stock ,but Like others here I would try a hydraulic press to slowly straighten it it should be do-able.Or maybe you should after sixty years just treat yourself to a new one .Craftsman are not top of the range so a replacement would not be too hard maybe Sears will be kind to you if you can't get a part why not ask for a discount on a new one. Alistair

crrmeyer
03-15-2011, 01:38 AM
OK Guys,
I got it apart with the exception of the thrust collar for the chuck. It appears there is a roll pin in a blind hole holding it to the spindle. The only way I can see to remove the pin is by drilling. Sure wish I had a drill press.:D

I suppose that the thrust collar should be removed before I send it out for staightening... grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

I presume you have already found this, but here is the manual so an almost identical version of the drill press with an exploded diagram.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=573

They are nice drill presses. I was given a beater one by my dad and used it for many years. A few years ago I found one in almost unused condition (same model) for $15. I sold the beater one for the same amount and have been quite happy with it.

So just get it straightened and do not mill with it! Or find another spindle on Ebay.

Miner49r
03-16-2011, 09:24 PM
Stopped at several machine shops and a print shop and recieved different responses...
1) Can't pull a man from the line to do your work.
2) Too afraid of completely ruining my spindle.
3) Come back next week.

So, I reassembled the pressand watched the dial indicator while cranking on the Y axis. After about twenty minutes the spindle had >.002 runout on chuck.
That's as good as it gets until I find bearings for this unit. It appears that the pulley bearing are worn but I will replace the quill bearings as long as I am at it.

Does anyone have part numbers for these bearings?

Thx,
Miner49r