View Full Version : Accessory

12-22-2003, 12:16 AM
This is my latest project. I bought a POS drill press for $30 US from Canadian Tire, must be the equivalent of HF in the US. I think I voided the warranty when I sawed the head in half. This is a drilling attachment as well as a tool post grinder. The motor is 1/4 hp and it will turn up to 3150 rpms. For $30 bucks and a bit of work it should be useful.




[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-22-2003).]

12-22-2003, 01:10 AM
Gnarly Dude!

Scary stuff - better put a belt guard on before the grandsons come around though.

Hey, take it back the pieces you don't need just to see the look on their faces when you try to return it... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

tell them "there's something wrong with it - won't drill"

12-22-2003, 01:36 AM
I'll give you $50US for it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif :0

Happy Holidays,


12-22-2003, 03:06 AM
Yeah, Thrud. I will see of I can fit the original belt cover/guard on it. Never mind the grandsons, I need all my fingers for a while yet!!

12-22-2003, 03:12 AM

Cheaper than the bearings that I'm considering for a secondary spindle...I'll have to consider your way!

12-22-2003, 07:37 AM
Hey Evan,

Nice pics. Cool project. Where do you find the time....


G.A. Ewen
12-22-2003, 09:37 AM
Very ingenious! Are you going to make some kind of quill lock for it? Most of the Crappy Tire POS drills that I have looked at have a lot of slack in the quill.

BTW, That is going to be one slick rigg when combined with your dividing system to drill circular hole patterns.

Have to go now, i'm off to Crappy Tire. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Below are some bad photos of the quill lock that I once made for a POS drill.



[This message has been edited by G.A. Ewen (edited 12-22-2003).]

12-22-2003, 10:10 AM
Looks pretty cool, I know I'm half a moron....but what's it for exactly?.....I still don't know what a tool post grinder is for, and don't know why you'd need a drilling attatchment when the lathe acts as a drill.

Sorry for my ignorance, this just isn't as evident to my limited mind as other attatchments.....no disrespect intended.


L Webb
12-22-2003, 10:28 AM
Creative setup Evan. Nice job.

ZINOM, a toolpost grinder is mounted on the cross slide in place of a toolholder.

I leave one setup on a lathe just about all the time and use it to grind ID's on die rings and OD's on punches.
It is about the only way to take to dimension a punch or die ring that has been built up with weld.

The interrupted cutting of weld bead will trash cutting tools very quickly. Very easy to grind them.

That is my use of a toolpost grinder.


Dr. Rob
12-22-2003, 10:52 AM
Cool. I made holding attachments for a 5" angle grinder, a cheap 5" bench grinder and a genuine toolpost grinder with integral motor.

Now I only need to do the Dremel and maybe the chainsaw.

I remember when Canaydjun Tyre actually sold tires (and guns)...they don't anymore, do they? Just junk.

[This message has been edited by Dr. Rob (edited 12-22-2003).]

12-22-2003, 11:19 AM
L Webb wrote: "It is about the only way to take to dimension a punch or die ring that has been built up with weld."


Could you tell us a little more about welding dies? What type filler metal? Arc, TIG? Heat treatment after welding?

I've got a couple of dies that need some rework and not sure how to proceed.


12-22-2003, 01:01 PM

The lathe may be used to drill holes by holding drill bits either in the chuck, a collet or by using morse taper drills in the spindle. The work is backed up by a tailstock drilling adapter which is a flat circular plate on the end of a morse taper that fits in the tailstock. The tailstock quill is used to feed the work into the drill.

This accessory is for precision drilling of holes, especially in a circular pattern with the dividing attachment I made. I intend to build a dividing head and this is one of the reasons I built this gadget. It also can be used to drill precision holes in just about anything that can be chucked on the spindle of the lathe.

When I installed the drill press head I aligned it to the lathe centerline as you can see in the first photo. Gripped in the jacobs chuck is a piece of 1/2" steel with the end center drilled, bearing on a center in the lathe spindle. the back end of the drill press spindle is also center drilled and this provides a convenient spot for a center in the tailstock to align the entire rig. The drill head is attached to the base plate by means of four grade eight bolts that fit to a chunk of aluminum bolted to the base plate inside the drill head.

Runout is less than .001. Alignment with lathe centerline is better than .001 over the length of the test rod chucked in the drill chuck, both on top and on the side.

As a tool post grinder the drill is fitted with a 4" borozon wheel that I just happen to have courtesy of my wife http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Ragarsed Raglan
12-22-2003, 02:21 PM
Hey man! Aren't you supposed to buy the wife the 'diamonds', not the other way 'round!!


L Webb
12-22-2003, 07:21 PM
I wish I could give you the details DR, but I can't.
I don't do the welding or heat treat.
They are TIG welded. The guy who used to do them would pick them up and deliver them back ready to be ground back to size.

I haven't had one done in probably four years.
I have many die sets on the shelf that were welded long before I got here. Most are probably in the 3" to 10" range. It was very common to rework punches and dies with welding back in the very busy days.

Sometimes I will take an odd size set and rework it to a different size. If the punch/ die ring had been welded in the past, it is a bitch to hard turn to size due to varying hardness in the weld areas. Also, one void will trash an expensive insert.

Since I have a cheap source of tool steel, it is usually easier and cheaper to just make a new one.


12-22-2003, 11:00 PM
Evan will take synthetic industrial diamond...probably better not to try that with the wife!

I hear there are some pretty good stones up there in the North Territory...


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Ragarsed Raglan:
Hey man! Aren't you supposed to buy the wife the 'diamonds', not the other way 'round!!


12-22-2003, 11:40 PM
35% of the world very finest (best cut, clarity, and flash) gemstone diamonds are mined and cut & polished in Canada. They cut and polish either in Yellowknife or Edmonton. They have also just discovered the worlds rarest emeralds in the Yukon the "Steel Blue Emerald"

Don Warner
12-23-2003, 12:27 PM
Why not make hand tapping fixture out of the left over base and column like Enco sells for
$99 on page 274 of their 2003 master cat.
Don Warner

12-23-2003, 12:36 PM

I'm not familiar with that tool and don't have the catalog. Sounds like an idea. Is there a picture online somewhere or could you describe it?

12-23-2003, 01:02 PM
Very creative Evan!


That should be the link to the tapping tool.


12-24-2003, 02:58 PM
Evan... pretty darn slick!!!! Is that one of the 8" "Jobmate" drill presses? (Or did it USED to be?LOL) Was looking at one today and that post and base just has to be good for something. Thanks for the inspiration!

12-24-2003, 03:02 PM
Yep, that's the one. It was on sale for 49.95CD a couple of weeks ago. As soon as I saw it I knew what I was going to do. Plan "B" if it doesn't work well enough is to build my own spindle with really good bearings. I might do that anyway. You can never have too many tools...

I'm going down in a few minutes to finish the arbor for the 4" borozon wheel my wife gave me for christmas ($250 retail value!) and see how it does as a toolpost grinder.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-24-2003).]

12-24-2003, 03:17 PM
very ingenious attachment.
You must spend a lot of time in your shop.

good job.

12-24-2003, 07:42 PM
Well, it does work as a toolpost grinder. That's not something i expect to do very often but this is what it looks like. Yes, the ways were covered. This is after the fact.

That is a scaly old piece of 2" hot rolled stock in the chuck and it did a pretty decent job.


12-24-2003, 09:15 PM
Neat!I always knew those things where good for something just not as drill presses http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

If you make your self a little wheel guard with a extended bill that you can swivel up under the work you can shop-vac that sucker and forget the way cover.

12-25-2003, 12:12 AM
Evan and others, thanks for schooling me with regards to the uses of the attachment....Nice work!

Seeing things like this reminds me that with a bit of creativity and some machine tools, almost anything is possible.

Thanks again,


12-25-2003, 03:48 AM
Evan... do not let this go un-noticed... you are a genius I've been dickering at all the local pawn shops for a small size motor and was going to build my own arbour!!! Your idea is fantanstic!!!! I bow to your genius!!! Why didn't I think of this??? THIS IS WHY I VISIT THE SEWING CIRCLE!!!!!!!!!! Donie.... go soak yer head!!! Sewing circle my ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!

12-25-2003, 07:33 AM
This is definitely my favorite sewing circle. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

12-25-2003, 01:43 PM
Is that Quilt..I mean wheel the CBN one the wife gave you? The vacuum chute is not a bad idea, BTW. Lee vally also sells Goretex Hepa filters for shopvacs and sears models shop vacuums - they are perfect for grinding dust(trust me). When they get dirty you bang them against the inside of the drum to knock the dust off or you can use a hose to wash it off. Water will not go through them.

12-25-2003, 01:58 PM
Yep, Dave

That is the CBN wheel she gave me. It will be used primarily for sharpening HSS bits.

J. Randall
12-25-2003, 11:59 PM
Torker, I think Donie and the sewing circle thread was on another message board, but I agree with you. James

12-26-2003, 06:21 PM
James... ooops you're right! I'd just switched boards and forgot! Evan.... I'm just tearing my new drill press to pieces. Here's what I had figured before... Dicker pawn shop down to $45 for new motor (it was larger in size than this one), step pulleys $12.99 ea, belt $10,decent pillow blocks for shaft $18 ea, simular electrical switch $22, drill chuck $25, and the rest I probably had in the shop somewhere. Total $164 + $24.60 tax= $188.60. and you don't get all the cool spare parts left over! I've always wanted a dedicated machine for grinding the rough off of 3" and 4" 1/4"thick washers that I make a lot of. These are plasma cut and I spin them in the drill press and smooth them up with an angle grinder.I almost have the arbor/ motor finished for it but wasn't sure what to use for a grinder. That CT drill press head has a built in swivel (post hole), control it with a feed screw and I'll have a pretty accurate grinder... things will be way faster to set up in the 4 jaw. So I guess I have to buy another one! Thanks again!

12-26-2003, 07:23 PM
Always nice to see a mediocre store bought tool (cheap drill press) turned into something more useful. Cool!

12-26-2003, 07:59 PM
Finally, someone's figured out how to make something useful out of one of those POS chicom drill presses. Sure beats the hell out of what you pay for toolpost grinders if you buy one commercially made. I like it.

12-26-2003, 08:48 PM
You know, I wouldn't be surprised someday to find in Webster's, under "Home Shop Machinist", a picture of Evan... he is the epitome of the home shop machinist.

12-26-2003, 10:05 PM
With the chuck sucked all the way in, it would do light milling. My first cnc machine was a craftsman drill press and X-Y slide. It was good for milling light materiels.
Neat, I got it on my "to do list" Now, to get the acid etched degree marks around the chuck.


12-27-2003, 02:29 PM

Looks like a fine candidate for submission to the HSM. Inexpensive handy homeshop projects are what HSM should provide for readers that don't have access to all the high end stuff and this one really fits that requirement. With an additional upgrade of precision bearings it could compete rather nicely with the high end toolpost grinders.


12-27-2003, 08:28 PM

Is there any reason to cut it? You did not gain much clearance to the motor. Could you lay it on it's side? I am thinking of a post mount using the drill mount. Perhaps a swivel?

Also angle drilling, and marked chuck to use as a indexer. I can do about 50% of my hobby work on such a machine. Poor old mill might get rusty.


12-27-2003, 11:37 PM

I couldn't figure out a way to mount it on the side. Problems include the return spring for the quill and the center height of the spindle in relation to the lathe centerline. It works really well in the shown configuration and I am working on a project right now to show it off. No hints. Not a dividing head.

I have thought about mounting it so that it can be swiveled 90 degrees. That would make it possible to use for hobbing small tooth gears. As I said, plan B is to make a real spindle with really good bearings. I probably will since the bearings in the drill press head are pretty feeble and not as precise as I would like. Still, it does work very well for light duty. I think that if you did much tool post grinding with it it would likely trash the bearings fairly quickly. But, a couple of nice tapered roller bearings don't cost much plus a slug of CRS and you have a real spindle.

12-28-2003, 10:42 AM
Evan... I wondered the same thing until I tore mine apart and had the thing right in front of me. The way you did it is really the only way it will work. I do like the idea of making it swivel... thats what I'm working on right now. Not a whole lot of room though for a way to tighten it into the tool post mount. Better have another cup of coffee and stare at ti awhile longer!

12-28-2003, 10:48 AM
My drill press - light cnc mill ... I took the spring off, I had to turn the down shaft flat, bore a xl gear to fit. All them parts are around somewhere.

I don't think you can reverse the down shaft, but like you said, you have the parts to build a decent arbor-spindle. Does the chuck screw on? that is even better. More parts to cannabalize.

I was thinking of angle drilling the turbine project. It was just a set of radial hole drilled at a angled pitch with exhaust in center. I half finished the first one on my mill and indexer, till I missed reading the angle and it hit the scrap bucket. Ohh to complete some of the projects around here.

It is a beautiful 60 degrees this morn at 8:30, but a friend died and I have to go see him off and pay my respects to the family.

He drank his self to death. My own alcohol poisoning seems to be getting worse, it takes more days to get over it. I quit for a few years and accomplished more in my life. I guess this (my friend) is another sign.


12-28-2003, 01:26 PM
I do have a nice big authentic brand Jacobs chuck with 1/2 X 20 tpi mount. It will make a real nice end for a spindle.


My idea for mounting it so it can swivel is to use a piece that fits in the same hole as the compound on the cross slide. Index it the same as the compound. You're right, room is a problem but I think I can make it fit. This lathe is turning into a DoAll.

BTW, I use an ear sticking down from the left end of the attachment with a bolt loctited in place to set the alignment against the side of the cross slide. Not shown in pics. It makes it easy to put in place in the same alignment each time.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 04-30-2004).]

12-28-2003, 01:52 PM
Evan. You are an inspiration to the rest of us. This deffinately belongs in HSM along with Forrests treatis on scraping.
You could mount a slitting saw in that thing and have a great way to cut off.

12-28-2003, 03:27 PM
Evan... I was thinking the same thing...to mount it where the compound goes. I've just had that head flopping around on the lathe in every position I could hold it in (as I'm sure you did too)... it's too bad that the feed lever shaft wasn't the other way around. You could mount the thing where the switch screws on. I took the shaft out to see if I could swap sides and it could be done if I wanted to make this a life long project. I've never used a tool post grinder before so I'm wondering if this setup, when swiveled will be stiff enough? Like for hobbing gears etc? Also... I looked at other ways to mount the motor, eg to the head itself but the motor is always in the way. Another thing I like about the way you did it is if you need to work on something longer you can pass it through the belt and still have plenty of movement! BTW... this is probably the best thing to do to these tools... mine almost fell apart by itself when doing the tear down. Most of the bolts where only finger tight except for the all important bolts that hold the wires inside the cover... they were so tight that the heads twisted off!

12-28-2003, 06:08 PM
Yeah, the neat thing to do would be purchase a kwik-switch spindle so I can share tooling, build a bearing spindle.

I still am gathering the parts to make a small lathe powered shaper, perhaps you'd like to complete that project for me?

Just the couple of Stepped pulleys, not to mention the new motor, you are miles ahead.

I'd run it till it makes noise or makes junk. then upgrade.

I just bought a new belt for my drill press. Mine is a craftsman, I wonder what that will do to the warranty? (what warranty)


12-29-2003, 04:05 AM

I'll show you my slitting saw arbour (1"). That puny lil drill press head isn't near strong enough to hold it. It does do a good job of drilling indexed holes though. First step is with a center drill tucked up tight to the chuck. George mentioned locking the quill. The head has a piece to prevent the quill from rotating that is threaded on the side. Remove. Insert small piece of stock shaped similar with a knob to bear on it. We now have a quill lock.

12-29-2003, 06:57 AM
Holding my press head over my machine I found out by mounting it chuck down, motor up, I can connect it with the armstrong toolpost 1 1/8" boring bar holder. The toolpost is for a larger lathe.

I just need to fabricate a 1 7/8" bar, 1" bar with heavy strap between them. That will mount the drill press head "as is" with no mods. I have a pretty good amount of overhead on my machine, I think it is a lil larger then yours. My machine is a 14?x30" regal leblond. This will give me rotation and a quickchange head. It'll have to be aligned each time it is installed thou.

Not sure how much of the craftsman drill press is like a chinese copy.

I can post a picture perhaps this weekend.

(puppy is making me laugh this morning, wide open, pulling my socks off as I put them on, pulling the rugs upside down, Making Carrol Holler)


01-02-2004, 04:22 PM
I just got mine up and running, pretty neat.

I need to mark the chuck now, and make a faceplate to hold the parts.

I will post pictures as soon as the Windows computer boots again.

I did mine different, used a tool post mount, turned the drill press vertical with motor over the chuck. I can swivel it.

I kinda screwed up, put the mount between centers, tacked it with A-cloth over ways, then pulled the mount and welded it up solid like. Heat warp is not your friend. I had to get the actylene torch out to straighten it.

Works great, thanks for the ideal.


01-08-2004, 02:25 AM
After two days of near -40 temps, vehicles that wouldn't start, broken water pipes and flooded motel rooms.... I finally got time to finish the tool post grinder!!! What a slick little rig and a whole bunch of fun to build! I did make a swivel mount that pops right in the hole for the compound. Also splurged and got a shorter belt (Dayco 3L230CA) to bring the motor in a little closer to the head (a move I may regret????) Tried a little grinding but need a better stone. I have a roller mounted on a shaft that needed a keyway but have no broaches etc. Already had a threaded center hole so bolted on a big washer, spun the chuck and marked 2 circles with the point of an old center drill, lock in the back gear and drill 4 holes, tig in 4 pins and bingo.. the roller is locked on the shaft. That little thing drilled perfect holes straight across in no time. Only thing...any bigger drill will probably twist the mount in the hole so I have to make a stop so it can't move. Still trying to figure what I can do with the swivel feature. Thanks Evan! Russ

01-08-2004, 02:41 AM
Thanks guys. Mine works very well for screwing up parts with considerable precision. BDO fault.