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8ntsane
04-05-2011, 12:19 AM
Hello everyone
I have been needing to cut metric threads more as the yrs pass.
The problem is I have a American Lathe, a 1941 Sidney 14X30
Is it possible to do this? What would I need to do to the lathe ?
or is this just wishfull thinking on my behalf.
In the past , I had a 12x37 import lathe. and on the rare times
I needed a metric thread, I beleive I had to swap out a few gears in the LH
end of the gear box. I memory serves me, one of the gears had to be 127 tooth. I have been getting away with useing taps & Dies for any metric threads, but would like to get this machine to do both, if I could?

Thoughts on this?
TIA

Rif
04-05-2011, 12:31 AM
Hello,

I read somewhere, on the PM website, that it is possible to use a 34 and 52 tooth gear to get a close approximation of metric threads. The error was claimed to be 0.04 of 1%. The posting was in the South Bend forum; but, it is very hard to find as I spent quite some time until I found it. I also believe that it was for a South Bend 9.

I made a 34 tooth gear and briefly tested it for a couple of threads and it seemed to work on my South Bend 13. I did have to shift the chart slightly as the gearing is different between the South Bend 9 and 13. (i.e. Set the gear box to 36 TPI for 1.00mm threads instead of the 18TPI listed.

Anyhow, it may work or get you close enough to work. Here is the information as metric size/gear box setting:

34 Tooth Stud Gear:

0.25/72
0.45/40
0.50/36
0.75/24
0.90/20
1.00/18
1.50/12
2.00/9
3.00/6
4.00/4.5
4.50/4
6.00/3
8.00/2.25

52 Tooth Stud Gear:
1.25/22
2.50/11
5.00/5.5


Regards,

Brian

Jim Hubbell
04-05-2011, 12:32 AM
The way I did it I explained in the Nov./Dec. 2007 issue of HSM. The 127 tooth gear translates Metric/inches and was easy to make.

Edit 04072011: For size considerations the 127T and 40T gear were made at 1/2 the DP of the stock Atlas change gears. These were the only gears that were necessary, to make just about any common metric thread.

8ntsane
04-05-2011, 12:40 AM
Thanks guys
I will search around for this to get the details.
Jim, I wish I had the artical you wrote up. Wouldnt happan to have a copy of that stashed away some where, would you? Was it just the 127 tooth gear you had to make?

Thanks

Paul Alciatore
04-05-2011, 03:05 AM
According to my super accurate calculations, the error with a 34/52 combination is about 0.35%. The 37/47 combo gets you down to 0.02% so it is technically superior. Each of these approximate translations will require a different set of stud and screw gears as one approximates the exact ratio of 1.27 while the other goes for an approximation of 120% of that ratio (1.524 = 1.27 X 1.2). Many other approximate combinations have been proposed.

The 127 tooth is the one gear that provides an exact translation. (10" = 254mm EXACTLY. 254/2 = 127. 127 is a prime number and can not be further divided so it is the smallest number that provides an exact translation.) It is often used with a 100 tooth, but some have used it with a 50 tooth and others with a 120 tooth. This second gear is simply one that expresses a round number distance in English units. It is choosen for the best use of the existing set of change gears or for best use with an existing quick change box.

In most cases, you must have two gears with the proper ratio between them. They are usually combined into a single compound gear on the same shaft. I have made and sold such sets for the SB 9 and sold them along with the proper chart to set up many metric threads. I did discover that some setups were simpler with just the single 127 tooth gear mounted on the lead screw so I made my set as two pieces that were bolted together to form a compound or each could be used separately. I also found that an Excel spreadsheet was a very good way to discover all possible threads that could be made with a given set of gears. If you send me a private message with your e-mail, I can send that Excel spreadsheet (for the SB 9) to you.




Hello,

I read somewhere, on the PM website, that it is possible to use a 34 and 52 tooth gear to get a close approximation of metric threads. The error was claimed to be 0.04 of 1%. The posting was in the South Bend forum; but, it is very hard to find as I spent quite some time until I found it. I also believe that it was for a South Bend 9.

I made a 34 tooth gear and briefly tested it for a couple of threads and it seemed to work on my South Bend 13. I did have to shift the chart slightly as the gearing is different between the South Bend 9 and 13. (i.e. Set the gear box to 36 TPI for 1.00mm threads instead of the 18TPI listed.

Anyhow, it may work or get you close enough to work. Here is the information as metric size/gear box setting:

34 Tooth Stud Gear:

0.25/72
0.45/40
0.50/36
0.75/24
0.90/20
1.00/18
1.50/12
2.00/9
3.00/6
4.00/4.5
4.50/4
6.00/3
8.00/2.25

52 Tooth Stud Gear:
1.25/22
2.50/11
5.00/5.5


Regards,

Brian

firbikrhd1
04-05-2011, 11:03 AM
Logan Lathe recommends 127/100 transposing gears for exact conversion to metric, they also have 37 T. and 47 T. Transposing Gears (2/100 of 1% Inaccuracy). The smaller gears are what I use and the work well while still fitting under the gear cover. Atlas uses a 54/42 combination to approximate most metric threads.

beckley23
04-05-2011, 06:25 PM
Monarch changes the DP for metric threading gears, mainly due to the OD of the 127 T gear, a 16 DP 127 T gear is 8-1/16" OD, and to get them under the gear cover on the left end. On my 12" CK, 16" CY and 16" Series 60 the metric gears are 16 DP. Both 16's use a 127/50 compound gear, the 12" uses an 80/63, the 50 and 63 tooth gears will be the same DP as the gearbox. The only other gears used replace the spindle stud gear, and there 6, or so, gears.
Your lathe is very similar to Monarch, and I suspect the metric changes gearing will be similar.
Harry

Don Young
04-05-2011, 10:02 PM
There is a lot of good info in these posts. Unless the factory or someone else has worked out a scheme for your particular lathe or one with the same gear train, you will have to work it out yourself. There is no generic solution but there is a lot of information in books, in forums, and elsewhere on the internet. Martin Cleeves 'Screwcutting on the Lathe' has some real good information.

You will need a pair of gears for altering the pitches to more nearly the metric value. Whether you use the 127T gear for an exact ratio is up to you. Nothing else about making threads is 'exact'. Even if you have a Quick Change Gear Box you will also need some change gears as the English box ratios only work for a few metric threads.

If your lathe has a gearbox, a handy thing to know is that if you set it up to cut a 1MM thread with the gearbox set to 24tpi, then 24 divided by any other setting gives you the MM pitch for that setting. If you set the gearbox to 16tpi you will cut a 1.5MM thread, etc.. If your gearing gives a 1MM thread at 20tpi, then 20 divided by your gearbox setting gives you your MM pitch. If you set your gearbox to 16tpi you will then cut a 1.25MM thread. In other words, for any gearing setup, the gearbox setting times the metric thread cut at that setting is always the same number. This can save you some calculating.

The gearbox columns containing 16, 20, 24, and 30 are usually the only ones providing ratios useful for metric threads. Others give odd fractional pitches.

becksmachine
04-06-2011, 01:28 AM
One issue that I have not seen addressed yet is the issue of thread dials.

Unless you are lucky enough to have an apron controlled reverse to the lead screw, it will be difficult to cut the metric leads as it is difficult to use the standard trick of leaving the half nuts engaged and reversing the spindle to return to the beginning of the thread for the next pass. I believe your older Sidney will need to reverse the spindle electrically, which will be even more difficult if it is powered by a single phase motor.

You can buy an accessory thread dial that will allow you to pick up the thread again for subsequent passes when disengaging the half nuts. Google Ainjest for more info. I think that name is right, if not I could look for sure.

Dave

Mcgyver
04-06-2011, 08:08 AM
The reason why the 127 works is 5 x 25.40000000000000 = 127.0000000000000 and the international inch is defined at being exactly 25.4mm.

Now this is where even imperial users and defenders such as myself have to blush although its largely in the past now...there is more than one inch! There was a British, Canadian and American inch, mostly replaced by the 25.4 however the American survey inch (used only for surveying) survives which is 2 millionths of an inch longer than the int inch. The inch you regularly encounter is the same, and our gauge blocks are the same....however that may not be the case if they're earlier than 1958. This of course doesn't affect use in a practical sense, but is interesting.

so 127 teeth lets you get to metric with 0.000000000000000% error

macona
04-06-2011, 02:21 PM
The reason why the 127 works is 5 x 25.40000000000000 = 127.0000000000000 and the international inch is defined at being exactly 25.4mm.


Unless you are on a Pentium, than it is 127.000000000001

8ntsane
04-06-2011, 05:04 PM
Hi Guys
Well I have been doing a ton of reading since posting this topic. I am far from getting a handle on this metric threading. Im still lost on alot of this stuff but doing my best to learn.

I did get a copy of the manual for my lathe from a PM member that has the same machine. In the manual, there is alot of infro on the end gears for metric threading, so what Im try to do, isnt impossible, but very confusing to me.

The manual shows the gear train set up for what they call STD End Gearing.
There is one thing that stumps me with this, the idler gear is claimed to be 72 tooth, and mine is 60.
Hoping I have this right, the gears are as follows
Top , Stud gear 32 tooth
2nd, idler gear 60 tooth
3rd tumbler gear 36 tooth
4th gear box 48 tooth
The manual says these are 12P, and 20 o PA is stamped on the face of the gears
Question: does the idler gear tooth not count part of all the ratio,s?
Im supposed to have a 72T and I have a 60 T
I have cut many different TPI threads on this lathe, and for anything I have done, its allways worked out fine.

The drawing for metric end gearing shows the 127T comp gear with the 60T behind it. Also has a chart for stud gears ranging from 32 to 56 . It also shows the idler as a 40t gear. So I get the feeling Im going to need a 127-T, and a 40-T and a few different tooth counts for the stud gear to get common pitches in millimeters.

Is there any threading guru,s here that would look at these charts, and try to make some sense out of all this for me?

One of the posters had mentioned about having a threading dial, leadscreww to reverse, that would be yes on both counts, the lathe is equipped with both. The the lathe is 5hp 3 phase so the carriage can be reversed one way or the other with the half nuts closed.

A few questions before I go.
The manual says the gears are 12-P , is that the dia pitch?
and on the face of the end gears is stamped 20o PA , is this the pressure angle? Reason Im asking is , if I was to order a gear,or gears. I would think tooth count, pitch & pressure angle would be the information they would need to know.
Im hoping to learn enough about this before my hair gets any grayer, or I rip it all out in the process,lol.

Thanks for the input guys

beckley23
04-06-2011, 06:38 PM
Idler gears don't count in the gear ratios.
Apparently you have 12 diametrical pitch and 20* pressure angle gears.
Harry

garagemark
04-06-2011, 07:14 PM
This should become a sticky.

aboard_epsilon
04-06-2011, 08:20 PM
The drawing for metric end gearing shows the 127T comp gear with the 60T behind it. Also has a chart for stud gears ranging from 32 to 56 . It also shows the idler as a 40t gear. So I get the feeling Im going to need a 127-T, and a 40-T and a few different tooth counts for the stud gear to get common pitches in millimeters

You don't need as many as you think ..a lot of them double for double mms pitch..so a 1mm pitch set up will also do a 2mm and 4mm pitch, if i remember right ..so on and on ..you just change the stud gear and use the chart for the gearbox settings.
the full set that is recommended ..covers some obscure pitches that you will never use in a life time. like 0.9 pitch

here's the metric chart for a 9 inch south bend with screw cutting gearbox

if you haven't got the screw cutting gearbox ..then good luck to you ..i don't think i would bother.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/sb13metric.jpg

here's the gear set for South bend 9 to cut all "common" metric threads if lathe has screw cutting gearbox.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/metricgears-1.jpg

all the best.markj

Evan
04-06-2011, 08:34 PM
Here are my instructions on how to use the existing change gears for a South Bend 9C to cut most metric threads with an error of only 2 threads per metre. No special gears are required.

http://ixian.ca/gallery/metric/metric.htm

PeteF
04-06-2011, 09:01 PM
if you haven't got the screw cutting gearbox ..then good luck to you ..i don't think i would bother.

I'm interested in why you say that, as I was just about to order a set of transposing gears for my imperial C model. I've never cut metric threads on this lathe, I thought it would be no more hassle than the usual imperial gear juggling act. These are the ones I was looking at BTW http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-METRIC-TRANSPOSING-GEARS-SOUTH-BEND-9-B-C-LATHE-/400116977285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d28d48e85#ht_2575wt_907

Don Young
04-06-2011, 09:35 PM
The manual shows the gear train set up for what they call STD End Gearing.
There is one thing that stumps me with this, the idler gear is claimed to be 72 tooth, and mine is 60.
Hoping I have this right, the gears are as follows
Top , Stud gear 32 tooth
2nd, idler gear 60 tooth
3rd tumbler gear 36 tooth
4th gear box 48 tooth
The manual says these are 12P, and 20 o PA is stamped on the face of the gears
Question: does the idler gear tooth not count part of all the ratio,s?
Im supposed to have a 72T and I have a 60 T
I have cut many different TPI threads on this lathe, and for anything I have done, its allways worked out fine.

The drawing for metric end gearing shows the 127T comp gear with the 60T behind it. Also has a chart for stud gears ranging from 32 to 56 . It also shows the idler as a 40t gear. So I get the feeling Im going to need a 127-T, and a 40-T and a few different tooth counts for the stud gear to get common pitches in millimeters.

I think you have it figured out correctly. The 127T and the 60T form the compound gear to get your basic metric conversion. The listed stud gears and corresponding gearbox setting give you the different MM pitches. If you only want to cut certain pitches then you will need the stud gears only for those pitches. Most systems give a pretty extensive range with five or six stud gears.

There are many, many, different gear setups for doing this but you are unlikely to find another method better than the one the lathe manufacturer has worked out and recommends unless you only want a more limited range of pitches.

Don Young
04-06-2011, 09:40 PM
I'm interested in why you say that, as I was just about to order a set of transposing gears for my imperial C model. I've never cut metric threads on this lathe, I thought it would be no more hassle than the usual imperial gear juggling act. These are the ones I was looking at BTW http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-METRIC-TRANSPOSING-GEARS-SOUTH-BEND-9-B-C-LATHE-/400116977285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d28d48e85#ht_2575wt_907

The only problem with cutting metric threads without a gearbox is that it takes a more gears. If you already have the full English set then the number of additional gears is about the same. The English gearbox has a pretty limited number of ranges useful for metric threading. That gear set is the same as the one originally furnished by South Bend and will cut all of the pitches listed on the chart. That is a very good selection of pitches. It is no more difficult to change the pitch for metric threading than for English, but you have the additional need for changing between the two systems, whether you have a gearbox or not.

beckley23
04-06-2011, 10:01 PM
A 127T 12DP gear is 10.75" OD. Make sure that you can get that gear in the space. The reason that Monarch changes the DP on the metric conversion gears is that they couldn't get their standard pitch gears in the space.
A couple of other factors to consider are; the face width of the purchased vs the original gears and the load rating, and the availibility of the gears from stock, you just may get into the gear cutting business.
Harry

PeteF
04-06-2011, 10:02 PM
Ok thanks Don, that's how I saw it but when I saw your post wondered if there was more to it that I'd considered. About the only time I need to single point an imperial thread is when making a replacement part for a machine, otherwise it's typically metric only for me, so shouldn't be much swapping involved unless I need to flick out the transposing gear to go to regular power feed rates.

Pete

Evan
04-06-2011, 10:06 PM
Unless you are turning out lead screws you don't need anything extra to cut metric threads on a SB9C. All you need to do is put together two of the gears to make a compound that can be taken back apart in one minute to use as usual. The error over a two centimetre distance is 0.04 mm which isn't enough to matter.

These are the threads you can cut using my method linked above.

http://ixian.ca/pics8/metric.gif

PeteF
04-06-2011, 10:15 PM
Harry made a good point about the transposing gear needing to physically fit. Incidentally has anyone purchased the transposing gear set from Tools4cheap http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=metgearsbc I've bought from Jeff before and it worked out well, so I have no doubt these would be quite good. But it would be interesting to hear from others before send off the $$$$!

Pete

Don Young
04-06-2011, 10:38 PM
Harry made a good point about the transposing gear needing to physically fit. Incidentally has anyone purchased the transposing gear set from Tools4cheap http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=metgearsbc I've bought from Jeff before and it worked out well, so I have no doubt these would be quite good. But it would be interesting to hear from others before send off the $$$$!

Pete
I don't know anything about the quality, but that gear set has the same gears as the South Bend set. I have found other parts from Jeff to be very good.

PeteF
04-06-2011, 10:59 PM
Thanks Don, Jeff tells me they'll fit in a USPS pre-paid box, so I think I'll order them. Something I've been meaning to do for some time, but this thread reminded me that I hadn't done it. Most of the time I just reach for a die, so it will be nice to be able to cut some useful threads again.

Pete

aboard_epsilon
04-07-2011, 08:38 AM
I'm interested in why you say that, as I was just about to order a set of transposing gears for my imperial C model. I've never cut metric threads on this lathe, I thought it would be no more hassle than the usual imperial gear juggling act. These are the ones I was looking at BTW http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-METRIC-TRANSPOSING-GEARS-SOUTH-BEND-9-B-C-LATHE-/400116977285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d28d48e85#ht_2575wt_907

Well it's the "oh not that rigmarole syndrome" that will come into your mind every time you want to cut a different thread ..and maybe give your hobby a bit of a "this isn't making me happy feeling, and its far too drawn out to do anything"

On my smart and brown, i can switch from metric to imperial threads in about 3- 4 Min's ..that includes a quick look at the manual , finding two change wheels and swapping out.

If you had a pile of change gears ..it would mean an hour thinking weather you really want to do it or not, ten Min's looking at the manual ..and 5 Min's rummaging through your pile of gears to find the right ones ..another 5 Min's looking at the manual to make sure you understand . then another 5 Min's bolting them on and gapping them so that they don't bind or rattle .and only then are you good to go
..all the time thinking about that next time you go back to imperial you got the same again.

You'd probably be happy to do it the first few times ..after that, your hobby will become a chore .

ps i have a few friends who have or had the change gear lathes..they just didnt bother with threading after a couple of go's ..and only got into it after they had a screw cutting box lathe

all the best.markj

8ntsane
04-07-2011, 02:36 PM
Monarch changes the DP for metric threading gears, mainly due to the OD of the 127 T gear, a 16 DP 127 T gear is 8-1/16" OD, and to get them under the gear cover on the left end. On my 12" CK, 16" CY and 16" Series 60 the metric gears are 16 DP. Both 16's use a 127/50 compound gear, the 12" uses an 80/63, the 50 and 63 tooth gears will be the same DP as the gearbox. The only other gears used replace the spindle stud gear, and there 6, or so, gears.
Your lathe is very similar to Monarch, and I suspect the metric changes gearing will be similar.
Harry

Harry
I suspect your right on the metric end gearing had a different DP than the STD end gearing has. I had a look inside the cover, and the spot where the 127 gear would go, has room for a 7-inch gear max. I would have to change out the complete set to a different DP to get diameters of the gear that would fit. By the looks of things in the manual, Im not seeing what DP they used on the Metric end gears.

Is there a site that anyone knows of, that has information about DP and the gear diameters for a give tooth count? Possibly figure out what Sidney used way back when? I know a 10.750 dia gear isnt going to fit inside the cover.

Seems the manual gives all the information on what the tooth count are, including the positions to set them, as well as the lever, and tumbler positions, to cut metric threads.

Looking at Evan,s set up, that looks easy to do. But thats a south bend, and I dont think it would appy on the Sidney. I guess its going to boil down to what Sidney used, and what it will cost for all these gears. At this point its hard to say if its worth it. Time will tell.

Looks like it would be easy, if I had a South Bend,,but I don,t.

beckley23
04-07-2011, 06:49 PM
Gear OD is number of teeth + 2 divided by diametrical pitch. My 12"CK, swings 14-1/4", has 12DP end gears. Monarch uses an 80 tooth 16 DP gear in place of the 127. It is compounded to the 63T 12 DP.
If you have a fax, PM it to me, I can send the charts I made up for the CK as a guide. You are going to have to know the gear tooth counts of every gear from the stud gear to the leadscrew, to figure this out.
Harry

PeteF
04-07-2011, 09:03 PM
Well it's the "oh not that rigmarole syndrome" that will come into your mind every time you want to cut a different thread ..and maybe give your hobby a bit of a "this isn't making me happy feeling, and its far too drawn out to do anything"

On my smart and brown, i can switch from metric to imperial threads in about 3- 4 Min's ..that includes a quick look at the manual , finding two change wheels and swapping out.

If you had a pile of change gears ..it would mean an hour thinking weather you really want to do it or not, ten Min's looking at the manual ..and 5 Min's rummaging through your pile of gears to find the right ones ..another 5 Min's looking at the manual to make sure you understand . then another 5 Min's bolting them on and gapping them so that they don't bind or rattle .and only then are you good to go
..all the time thinking about that next time you go back to imperial you got the same again.

You'd probably be happy to do it the first few times ..after that, your hobby will become a chore .

ps i have a few friends who have or had the change gear lathes..they just didnt bother with threading after a couple of go's ..and only got into it after they had a screw cutting box lathe

all the best.markj

Mark, yes but that sounds like pretty much the routine for cutting an imperial thread anyway :D Actually it's not too difficult, I just look at the diagram on the chart on the end of the lathe and copy it. Definitely not as easy as just flicking a few levers, but I'm not going to change this lathe any time soon. Not unless Harry wants to post "The Wreck" over to me anyway :p

In practice what I find is that when working on a project many of the threads are the same within that project, so there isn't as much changing pitches as one may imagine at first glance. But I can imagine you're right, if it was super easy to set up to cut a thread maybe I'd single-point them more often rather than just using a die.

Pete

Don Young
04-07-2011, 10:43 PM
Harry
I suspect your right on the metric end gearing had a different DP than the STD end gearing has. I had a look inside the cover, and the spot where the 127 gear would go, has room for a 7-inch gear max. I would have to change out the complete set to a different DP to get diameters of the gear that would fit. By the looks of things in the manual, Im not seeing what DP they used on the Metric end gears.

You would not have to change the DP of the entire set. Some lathes use mixed DP's for metric threading. You just have to change from one to another DP by using a compound gear. One could be the metric transposing gears and the other one could be a 1/1 compound or any other usable ratio.

beckley23
04-08-2011, 06:49 PM
To augment what Don states above, in the Monarch case there would only be 2 metric gears on the machine at any one time, but you will also have the compounding gear. In the case of the 12" CK, the reverse shaft gears(I call these the spindle stud gears as they are the first gear to mesh with the rest of the gearbox train) are 28,32,36,40, 44 and 52 teeth, only one will used at any one time. One of these gears will mesh with 80T conversion gear. All of these gears are 16DP. The 80T conversion gear is compounded to the 63T 12 DP which meshes with the rest of the gearbox train.
The lead errors with the above conversion gears are very minor for the common metric threads. Most, if not all, the leads I figured, the error was in the fourth decimal place; for example- 2.5MM pitch is 2.50032MM.
Harry

beckley23
04-17-2011, 09:30 AM
Paul,
Per our PM's, following are the charts for the Monarch 12" CK lathe. The first 2 pictures are of the end gear train for "inch" threads and the front of the gear box. On the gearbox the lever on the lower left is the A-B shifter, the upper lever in the middle is the C-D-E shifter, and the cone rack shifter is directly underneath. The lever on the right is feed-leadscrew shifter. The blocked opening is where the original start-stop buttons were, that has been moved to a pendant over the headstock. The "humped" cover is covering the the shift gearing for the apron mounted leadscrew/feed reverse which is done inside the headstock.
Page 1, 3rd picture, is the gear train from the headstock to the leadscrew as set up for "inch" threading. P.2 is the gearbox thread and feed chart. p.3 -8 are the metric threading.
Hopefully, you will be able to read my handwriting.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0025.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0026.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0028.jpg


continued next post
Harry

beckley23
04-17-2011, 09:32 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0029.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0030.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0031.jpg

continued next post
Harry

beckley23
04-17-2011, 09:34 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0032.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0033.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/beckley23/100_0034.jpg

Harry

8ntsane
04-17-2011, 02:09 PM
Thank You Harry

Im sure this will be very helpfull to Me , and others here. Im still doing the leaning curve here, but one of these days my old Sidney will be cutting Metric threads. Its a want , so bad I can taste it. Thanks for all your efforts getting this stuff posted.