View Full Version : Adding powered wire wheel to clean horizontal band saw blade

gary hart
07-07-2011, 02:47 PM
Thinking if the wire wheel is moving faster then speed of blade then there should be less wear on teeth cutting edge.
Also if angle of wire wheel rotation is aligned with direction of tooth gullets should be better for cleaning and less wear. Not sure if this thinking is right or not, but that is what was trying to do.

Made two bolts with bronze bushings in their heads and made collar and thread end of half inch rod for wire wheel.


Added pulley to hub of stepped V-pulley on gear box as drive pulley for wire wheel. Rotation was wrong direction. Had to put twist in drive belt to get rotation right. Could of put wire wheel on inside of saw blade but that would of been a hassle when changing blades.
Had to add idler pulley to align belt for one direction and used some Teflon sheet in the other direction to eliminate friction from rubbing.


Urethane tubing working good for drive belt. Made brass barbed connector for the splice. The splice worked good but there was too much flop from tubing stretching. Put some braided nylon cord inside the tubing and that solved the stretching and flopping of the belt.


Besides the wire wheel there is a small diaphragm compressor on the saw that blows air on both sides of the blade as it exits the work and just past the rotating wire wheel. The compressor is wired to come on when saw motor is on. ------------ Had to change this so air blowing on blade first and then wire wheel after this so the brush and air don't interfer with chips going into chute. Under this is a sheet metal chute that goes down to a cut off gallon plastic container where most the chips go.


07-07-2011, 03:23 PM
Nice work. The wire wheel is overlooked on small saw but it does make a difference. I just finished making the components to put the chip brush back on a 40" Amada saw. The motor to drive the brush was still there but everything else was missing. I also repaired a worn out assembly for a Hyd-Mech H14A saw.

Almost forgot to say don't worry about the angles and such the main thing is to make sure the brush just grazes the blade a little bit. It shouldn't be buried deep.

07-07-2011, 04:49 PM
I like that chip discharge chute idea!

Forrest Addy
07-07-2011, 04:55 PM
You are in grave dange of success. Good concept , Economical solution. Let us know how it works.

tyrone shewlaces
07-07-2011, 05:59 PM
That works and you did good, but I'll throw something out because it might still be worth going a little further.

The saws I've seen with a powered brush used a short shaft with the brush located about where yours is, but it was driven from a wheel that contacted the blade pulley. Makes for a more compact mechanism, no belts necessary, and spins the brush at the correct direction.

You could still do this close to the way yours is mounted, but rather than have the blade guard opened up so far, you could locate things such that closing the blade guard makes the driving wheel for the brush contact the blade pulley - presto... automatic engagement. The driving wheel could maybe just have a groove in it to slip an O-ring if you wanted a rubber tire for it.

Here's a photo of one:

Actually the ones I've seen were just the steel wheel for driving the brush (no tire), but the face of the blade pulley was machined rather than the raw cast surface so a tire might perform better.
And a closer look shows that the one pictured actually would spin counter to the way you described I think, but the solution there is to simply mount it so the brush contacts the other side of the blade (& other side of the brush wheel).

Anyways, yours is working so.... Just thought I'd toss this in if you felt inclined toward further tinkering.

07-07-2011, 08:20 PM
I like that chip discharge chute idea!

Likewise, good use of what looks like house guttering. Interesting idea on the wire brush too.

07-07-2011, 08:58 PM
The well saw at work has a simple sheet metal v-belt pulley about 10" in diameter bolted to the blade drive wheel.A v-belt (3l series) runs over to a small ball bearing mandrel that is mounted on a pivot bolt.The mandrel is nothing more than a 1-1/2 long piece of DOM tube with a couple bearings inside supporting a small shaft,1/2" diameter.3" wire wheel on one end and a 1-1/2 pulley on the other.The mandrel rocks over against a jacking bolt which allows adjustment so just the tips of the wire engage the saw teeth.

Belt tension is just a light weight spring loaded arm with a small bearing idler pulley on it.When changing blades the idler arm is pulled over and the belt slips off.

Like the gutter idea too.